The hood latch spring is probably broken. I'm having the same problem with my 99 F 150. The lower spring is the one that broke on me. Good luck. Well, maybe not. I just had the same thing with my '03 F150. Popped the hood open (hard to pull the release), and then the hood wouldn't latch closed. It just banged off the latch mechanism. I thought the cable had broken, since I pulled the release lever and there was no tension in it, no friction. Good news, though. I hadn't had to raise the hood in a few months, and it turns out the latch mechanism had just rusted in place; the spring wasn't resetting it. Lube it generously and work that lever till it loosens up. Better than buying a new cable from the dealership (nobody else carries them) for $38.00. I semi lucked out. I tried the lube approach first but that did not work. The bottom spring pulls a latch the hooks into the latch that closes over the hood bracket. On mine these bracket was frozen. I had to remove the shroud (only 1/3 of the releases worked properly after 10 years) and then get penetrant oil to the bracket from underneath. Manually tested it a few times and then replaced the bracket. It needed a minor adjustment but now it is off to the auto parts store to get some replacement shroud holders. Here's another reply, not for the F-150, but for a 1997 Escort: My hood got stuck open in cold weather; I'm guessing the cold contributed to the problem. The cause turned out to be binding of the cable in its sleeve, apparently at the end entering the latch mechanism. The latching part of the mechanism also was stiff in its motion. To fix it, I used long-nose pliers to remove the inside end of the top spring from the top cam of the latch, giving me access to the lower part of the latch. I could then use a large screwdriver to work the lever and spring that control the lower, latching cam; this is where the cable is attached. Some WD-40 on the cam and lots of back-and-forth motion on the lever where the (lower) spring attaches to it eventually got it moving freely. But this wasn't enough---the hood would latch once, but when opened, it would stick open again. The further step was to spray some WD-40 on the bare cable, just inside the bottom of the latch mechanism, right where the cable leaves its collar. I then worked the latch release (inside the car) a lot, and sprayed a bit more WD-40 on the bare cable in both open and closed positions so it would get worked into the sleeve end. Finally, I put some 3-in-1 oil on the bare cable (transfering it there by putting it on the end of the screwdriver), worked the latch release a few times to get the oil in the cable sleeve, and also put some 3-in-1 on the latching cam. (WD-40 is more of a solvent than a lubricant, hence the 3-in-1 oil.) It is now working fine. It was not fun doing this in single-digit (Fahrenheit) temperatures, but it beat paying for such a straightforward fix!
To open the hood on a 2001 mercury cougar when the hood latch cable snaps you will need to release the mechanism from the underside. You will need a mechanics prybar and look up from underneath the car, place the screwdriver tip in the release mechanism and turn.
A hood latch is the mechanism that holds your vehicles hood in the closed position while in operation.
reach in from underneath grille area and pull on latch mechanism, use a stiff piece of wire with end bent into a hook(coat hanger) if you look you will see where cable attaches to latch pull on this area
Remove carefully front grill with thin flat screwdriver to release tabs around it and you will access to the latch and pull cable end mechanism. Open it by pushing down on the hood while releasing the latch mechanism.
To open the hood latch on a 1996 Buick Park Avenue, the car needs to be put up on a hoist or jacked up. Then a long pole is needed to trip the hood latch. The cable can then be repaired for the hood latch before it is closed again.
I had the same problem try getting a new latch mechanism from the junkyard(about $12). Latch mechanism is the thing that holds the door closed.
I had to do this on my 97 Ford Explorer a month ago or so. It's easy. You should be able to go through the grill from the outside and unscrew the four bolts or so on the hood release mechanism (reassuring huh?) From there, lift the hood and the latch mechanism should come out with the hood. Detach the cable from the latch mechanism(if your cable is fine, you're in great luck) Take the latch to a junkyard and find one that looks similar(same position of bolt holes, and latch) Attach the cable to the new latch, attach the new latch to your car, it might take a while positioning it so it lines up right but I did it myself for only fifteen bucks.(cost of latch at junkyard from a different pickup).
It depends on what is wrong with the cable. When you pull the hood release within the car, is the latch not popping? If you can get the hood up at all, then you should look at the actual latch system where the cable runs, there is a metal clip that holds the cable to the latch. Have another person pull the interior latch release and watch the cable.
You can get your 1994 Chevy S 10 pickup truck hood latch unstuck by spraying a lubricant on the latching mechanism. You can also remove the hood latch retaining bolts to bypass the stock release cable.
You must pull off the rear interior panel and manually release the mechanism. It can be difficult and cumbersome. Be certain to not break the plastic!
depends on the problem, it could be the hood release cable, or the latch. latch is very simple, the cable is also simple, just more of a routing problem.
Depends on the cause. If cable is broken, bend a coat hanger to snag the cable still attached to the hood latch and pull it out. You should be able to open the hood simply by pulling hard. If it has become disconnected, like I am dealing with now, it will depend on the make & model as to whether you can release the latch from underneath with a long screwdriver to having to unbolt the latch mechanism after removing the grill.
If the cable or lever isn't "broken" try this, first be sure the hood is shut tight then operate the hood release, then go around to the front of the vehicle and by using the side of your fist give the front of the hood a firm thump. Sometimes this will release the hood from the latch. If it opens give the latch mechanism a good lubrication before you shut the hood.
The generic answer would be to first take a good look on the hood release mechanism on a similar car. Then get a good flashlight, look through the grille and see if there's a way of accessing the latch from there.
The cable between the latch and the handle may be broken or needs adjustement to shorten the cable so that the latch will fully release.
Usually you can use a flat bladed screwdriver in the hole the handle went in and turn the latch.
right behind the seatbelt mounts on both sides,there is a small cable with a loop on the end.stick you finger in the loop and pull,this will release the latch pin.
Need more information. Is the latch behind the grill broken? Or is it the latch operated from inside the vehicle? If it's the latter you can remove the latch mechanism and pull on the cable using pliers or vise grips.
cable broke release latch for the hood can't open it
I have done this in the past on some vehicles. Try to look through the grill and locate the hood latch mechanism. If you can see and reach the cable, grab it with a pair of needle nose plyers or such and pull hard to release the catch. If the cable is not visable, try a long screw driver to push the latch open. Hope this helps. Good luck! LDE
Sometimes the plastic coupling breaks, the coupling links the cable from the key barrel to the actual locking latch mechanism. Applying pressure to the coupling (pushing the cable towards and into the latch mechanism) and turning the key can open the bonnet if this is the reason why the bonnet is jammed.
Things to check, is the release all the way in? Lubricate the lock, WD40 or similar. Adjust the lock up if needed. After you lubricate the lock mechanism, cycle the hood release cable a few times, so that the lubricant penetrates. Continue to lubricate the mechanism at least once every few months to prevent future sticking of the cable.
The latch is broken, not the cable. You can still get to the cable where it is attached to the latch in the foot-well of the car. Grab the cable with a small vice-grip (or similar) and pull. Note that it is very unlikely the cable will break -the latch typically breaks before the cable since the latch is made from plastic and the cable from steel wire.
There are at least a couple ways of getting the hood open. For either method you should look at another GM latch for reference. The latch on my "88" Chevy van is the same thing. I used that for my reference. If you look at the latch you will see two 8mm bolts facing forward and slightly down. If you can get enough of a gap between the hood and grill open enough to see these bolts, you may be able to get them out with a 13mm socket which will allow the hood with the latch to be raised as much as the cable will allow. If this is enough to reach the latch, you should be able open it. This is how I got mine open. Once you get to the latch, you find the lever at the bottom that the cable is hooked to. You move it to the right as the cable would pull it. This releases the primary part of the latch. Now the lever has to back to the left to finish the release. This is where my problem was. The latch was so stiff the spring to push the lever to the left could not do the job. I had to push the lever back with a screwdriver to get it to release. I thought my cable was bad but it was OK. Once I got the latch out it took almost a half hour to get the latch moving freely enough to allow the spring to push the lever back.If you cannot get the bolts out of the latch, get a piece of stiff rod,(I used 3/16 dia) bend a tight 90 at the end and practice on the reference latch to get the feel of releasing the latch and then try it.Good LuckI would assume the '92 GMC S-15 is the same. The grill comes off quite easily even with the hood closed. There are 4 small Torx screws across the top barely accessible just under the lip of the hood. Additionally there are 4 in the grill slats themselves. Be careful; they are easy to drop into wherever lost screws go. When the grill is loose, it can be removed by deflecting the top down to fit it out under the hood lip. It has to bend some but not near breaking. When the top of the grill is out, it simply lifts off two posts at the bottom corners. Be careful of the wires to the marker lights; just remove the sockets and let them hang.Once the grill is out, you can see and access the release and release the latch. This might be possible without removing the grill but must be done blind from the bottom. The trick is to push a super heavy spring like loop to the right. This loop is the foremost part of the latch mechanism and is less than 1/4" in diameter. The cable points right at it. Imagine continuing to the left (passenger US) beyond where the cable disappears into the latch mechanism in the direction the cable is going when it goes into the latch mechanism. It would come out right in the front and that is where the tight loop in the strong spring that is the hood latch is. Push that loop right (toward driver). If you try it blind; slide a screwdriver from left to right across the front of the mechanism a little higher than the cable which you can see. A little press and release down on the hood will help. The hood will release, fix the cable or jury rig a release wire and you're done.In my case the cable had simply slipped out of the loop and the latch moved freely. It was easy to get back in and then I closed the loop down a little with vice-grips so the cable couldn't slip out again. Don't forget the lights on reassembly. Incidentally both of mine were burnt out.
From under car... its not too bad on a lift you can find cable near the hood need to get the inner wire and pull with pliers