You need 10-3 PLUS ground for this 220v application. The ground is the only uninsulated wire. If you did it with 10-2, I would suggest re-doing it correctly ASAP. That leaves you without a neutral and potential for supply to go through grounding wire to breaker box (or through a person to ground, causing electrocution).
Clarification: you do not need three current-carrying conductors for all 220 v applications. There is no neutral in 220, so you only need two "hot" leads and a bare safety grounding wire. If the appliance (as here, a dryer) actually needs 110 in addition to 220, then yes, you need 10/3 cable, plus grounding wire.
First of all the word "shield" in electricity refers to blocking magnetic flux. What you meant to say is "insulated" which means to block conductivity. When #?-2 NM w/ Ground wire is used in a 240 volt circiut, there is no neutral conductor. You're connecting the black and white wires hot and the bare wire as equipment ground in the distribution panel. On the dryer a 3 wire cord is connected with the neutral and ground terminals jumpered, so that the ground wire ran to the dryer serves as both ground and neutral. This is how dryers have been wired for many years in most of North America. Electrically this works because ground and neutral have the same electrical potential. Technically, however, it's wrong because a ground wire shouldn't be used as a normally current carrying conductor, and in the case of a dryer, the motor and control circuits are 120 volt, causing a small current flow in the ground conductor with a 3 wire supply.
The real question is: Does a residential dryer require a separate neutral conductor or just a ground conductor? The same question asked differently does a residential dryer require a #10-2 or #10-3 supply cable?
The answer is: If this is an existing dryer supply, a #10-2 cable with a 3 prong cord will work just as well as it has for decades, but if this is a new installation, a #10-3 cable and a 4 prong cord is required to abide with current laws.
If your electric dryer (meaning the heating element is electric, not gas) has a neutral you need 4 conductors: 2 are hot, 1 is neutral, one is ground. Neutral should always be insulated. If your electric dryer does not have a neutral you need 3 conductors: 2 are hot, one is ground The ground in either case can be bare.
No, the dryer must have separate ground and neutral lines.
Technically, yes you can. However, this is one of the most dangerous things you can do in electrical wiring. It's not only against the code, it's a fire waiting to happen. Don't do it! Understand, the neutral wire is a conductor. It carries current. It needs to be an insulated wire. Also, if you use the bare copper (ground) wire for a neutral, you have taken away the earth ground from the circuit, eliminating short circuit protection. If the dryer motor shorts out it will burn up. (fire again) A residential dryer requires a 30 amp 220 volt circuit breaker in your panel and a # 10 gauge wire with three conductors (insulated) and a bare ground. Have a qualified electrician install it.
The dryer is a 240v dryer so two of the wires are your hot wires, or the ones with power on them. One is your ground wire. And the forth is your neutral.
Black & Red are hot, and White is neutral. If it has no place to connect neutral connect neutral to ground.
If there is a neutral and ground run to the box, you can convert.
No. They are two different voltage and amperage rated pieces of equipment. Also, a dryer does not use a common (neutral) wire. It uses two separate 110 volt legs, and a ground. The washer uses only one 110 volt leg, a neutral, and a ground.
Ground and neutral should only be connected at the main electric panel to prevent parallel neutral currents. If it is a new installation, you must provide four wires (two hots, 1 neutral, & 1 ground) and connect to the four separate (appropriate) places on the dryer. If it is an existing installation and it only has three wires (two hots and a neutral) connect the neutral to both the neutral and ground connection of the dryer (the National Electrical Code allows this exception for older homes). Call a qualified electrician to do any electrical work.
Yes, older dryers were wired this way. If you have knowledge and can identify the neutral, you can use this wire as a ground also as neutral should be bonded to ground in the USA.
Black and Red are hot and connect to the hot lugs on the outlet. White is neutral and connects to the neutral connection. Bare copper is ground and connects to the ground connection. If you look closely on the back of the outlet you buy you will see the connections listed. I am assuming you have 10/3 wire installed for the dryer.
Three wire Dryer was 230 volts , black and red plus ground, four wire will be 230 volts red and black, neutral white and green ground.
it is a miss-wire, check what voltage you get between ground and the other hot!
No, the plug on the dryer should be a 4 pin plug. Likewise, in the wall there should be a 4 pin 30 amp receptacle
The four blade dryer plug brings a separate ground wire from the machine to the electrical grounding system. The three blade dryer plug depended on the neutral wire of the plug to make this connection.
Green is ground and white is neutral.
The ground or neutral is wired to the "L" prong of the plug and the two "hot" wires attach to the straight prongs of the plug.
The ground wire is NEVER used to provide a reference to create 110v for the controls of the dryer. That is the job of the neutral wire and why dryers are fed with a three wire cable. With the loss of the neutral the dryer would not start as it needs the 120 volts to bring the heating contactor and the motor contactor into activation.In many cases, the ground wire is used to provide a reference to create 110v for the controls of the dryer. With the loss of the ground, the dryer's control circuitry 'floated' as high as 220/240 volts.Usually, the small electric motor that drives the control knob can not handle these voltages, also the control contacts and any additional coils will burn up as well.There could be extensive damage, and may not be worth repairing the dryer.
== == The washing machine outlet should be ground fault protected on 12-2 wire. The 30 amp dryer circuit should be on 10-3 wire with a ground. Laundry receptacle outlet for washer, 12/2 with ground yes! GFCI required if receptacle is within 6 feet of sink or duplex receptacle rather than single receptacle [but a GFCI isn't a bad idea anyway...Dryer, 10/3 with ground and 4-wire outlet and cord set connection at dryer location! NO NEUTRAL BONDING LINK!1) NEC requires a disconnecting means [plug and receptacle works] if equipment [dryer] is not within sight of the power source [in this case, if the panel is in the garage]2) You were never allowed to use the ground wire to carry neutral current, so you need an insulated white or grey neutral [this means three wire]3] You are not longer allowed to use the neutral jumper at the terminal in the dryer for a chassis ground [with certain limited exceptions - existing ungrounded three wire cable and new dryer] Ground wire goes to chassis. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
There should be 3 insulated lugs in the dryer, two hots and a neutral. Connect the red and black wires in your new cord to the hot lugs (red & black are interchangeable), and the white neutral to the neutral lug. Neutral is the center wire on your older 3-wire cord, and should be a silver screw. Connect the green ground wire directly to the chassis of the sryer using a convienent screw. Use the four prong cord if you can. It is safer because it has the extra ground wire which older cords did not. If the neutral lug is bonded to the chassis, break that bond. It is for older 3-wire cords and is not needed with your modern 4-wire cord. Also, see the question "Is it possible to put a 4-prong plug on a dryer that uses a 3-prong plug and how would you do this?" It is a very similar question with more answers.
The best thing to do would be to replace the outlet with a four prong outlet. That way you get a separate equipment ground which is required by the newest code. Otherwise you could replace the cord on the dryer with a 3 prong cord, and connect the ground and neutral together in the dryer, but this is no longer recommended.
You have some serious wiring problems, for sure. My first guess is that your grounding conductor and neutral are touching somewhere and your ground is acting as the neutral when the neutral is disconnected. The light coming on when the hair dryer is used is another mystery. You need to hire a competent electrician to trouble shoot these problems.
The chassis of a dryer is what you see when you look at the dryer. It is a frame work of metal that contains the rotating drum and motor assembly. When you ground a dryer it is this framework that the ground wire, from the cord, is connected to.
Yes, ground fault protection for equipment is requiredeven if the neutral will not be used.However, the question implies that it might not be required if there is a neutral. That is not true. With two exceptions, ground fault protection is always required in the US, and it is probably required in other countries as well.The exceptions are the use of an electric cooking range, and an electric clothes dryer. In those cases, the US NEC allows the neutral conductor to also be the ground fault conductor, except for the case where the range or dryer is in a mobile home. In the case of the mobile home, the ground fault conductor and the neutral conductor must be maintained separate and distinct all the way back to the distribution panel.In every other case, including where local code overrides the US NEC's exceptions, it must be understood that ground fault protection (protective earth ground) is not the same as neutral, even though the neutral conductor is grounded.
Because the ground is missing in a three prong, the appliance uses a ground strap off the neutral if the ground wire is missing. New codes require a 4 prong outlet if the electrical is being installed new. Remember, if you use a 4 prong, the outlet must be a 4prong outlet, this means it must have 2-hots, 1-neutral, 1-ground. If the outlet does not have these then there is no use having a 4 prong plug on the appliance.
This could be a trick question. If it is a gas dryer yes. Hot and neutral without a ground. 110 volts to the dryer motor and controls. Heat coming from gas. If it is an electric dryer no. The heater element requires 240 volts. You could get this from black and red. 2 wires the controls require 110 requiring black and neutral. The dryer wouldn't heat ( the electric heating element.) with only 110 volts. In any case no dryer should operate with only 2 wires. It is the third wire or 4th wire that may save you life. That is the equipment ground conductor, that provides a safe path for electricity to return to ground in case of an malfunction. Save the planet, put out a laundry line, and hang your cloths to dry.