The 240 transformer that delivers power to your home has a "center tap", which gives 120 VAC to each side from the center and 240 from "hot" to "hot". It sounds like you're describing it correctly. Use the center tap and one of the hot lines to give you 120VAC, and there should be a ground bar inside the breaker panel that you would use to provide ground to the plug. The neutral and ground may or may not come from the same "source", depending on what you're trying to do. If you run a 240 feeder to a subpanel in a separate building you run two hots and a neutral and you put in a separate grounding rod to connect to the ISOLATED ground in the subpanel. The neutral and ground are not allowed to be connected together in that configuration. If you're running a 120 circuit instead, you run hot, neutral and ground together from the main panel to the subpanel.
Black & Red are hot, and White is neutral. If it has no place to connect neutral connect neutral to ground.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
remember the + side of the speaker basically means neutral, in all electric projects the - is always the live line, so if + means neutral that basically means that ground would also be neutral, speakers dont need ground, so if u wish connect + with neutral on the speaker.
If you have to connect the neutral to ground to make the circuit work then you have an open neutral in your circuit. Be careful in handling the neutral as there can be voltage potential on the neutral if a load is connected. In a properly wired home that has been inspected by the local electrical inspector the neutral should be bonded to the ground at the main service distribution point. There will be a green screw that projects through the neutral bus and is threaded into the back of the electrical panel. This should be the one and only place in the whole electrical system where this neutral to ground connection takes place. Dangerous!!!!! The ground is the safety to prevent you from getting shocked due to a malfunctioning piece of equipment. By using the ground for a neutral you will be energizing the entire ground system of you house or business. Thus anything with metal on it and a ground wire going to it will be electrified if the ground fails at the breaker box or building ground rod. Do you want to take this risk? Not I..........
Ground wire can be appropriately bonded to the neutral and cabinet at the service box by connecting the neutral and ground wires from the feeder wires to the neutral bus bar and the ground terminal located on the same cabinet at the service box. White wire (neutral) must be connected to bus bar and bare wire must be connected to ground terminal in the same cabinet.
Black & Red are hot, and White is neutral. If it has no place to connect neutral connect neutral to ground.
Purchase a ground rod from an electrical supply. Drive it into the ground just outside where your service is located. Install a ground cable from the neutral bar in the fuse box to the ground rod and clamp both ends. Voila, you have done it!
If there is no ground wire connect the ground wire to the neutral wire.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
remember the + side of the speaker basically means neutral, in all electric projects the - is always the live line, so if + means neutral that basically means that ground would also be neutral, speakers dont need ground, so if u wish connect + with neutral on the speaker.
If you have to connect the neutral to ground to make the circuit work then you have an open neutral in your circuit. Be careful in handling the neutral as there can be voltage potential on the neutral if a load is connected. In a properly wired home that has been inspected by the local electrical inspector the neutral should be bonded to the ground at the main service distribution point. There will be a green screw that projects through the neutral bus and is threaded into the back of the electrical panel. This should be the one and only place in the whole electrical system where this neutral to ground connection takes place. Dangerous!!!!! The ground is the safety to prevent you from getting shocked due to a malfunctioning piece of equipment. By using the ground for a neutral you will be energizing the entire ground system of you house or business. Thus anything with metal on it and a ground wire going to it will be electrified if the ground fails at the breaker box or building ground rod. Do you want to take this risk? Not I..........
Ground wire can be appropriately bonded to the neutral and cabinet at the service box by connecting the neutral and ground wires from the feeder wires to the neutral bus bar and the ground terminal located on the same cabinet at the service box. White wire (neutral) must be connected to bus bar and bare wire must be connected to ground terminal in the same cabinet.
If the service is connected you can not megger the service ahead of the main breaker. If the service is waiting for connection all you can do is megger between the wires. As the underground service is installed in PVC conduit, no ground circuit will be available between the underground conductors and the PVC conduit. Connect the black lead to the neutral bar in the meter base. Connect the other lead to the L1 lead and ring it. Do the same to the L2 lead. Then disconnect the lead from the neutral bar in the meter base and connect it to L1. Connect the other lead to L2 if it is not still connected from the last operation. Ring the line between L1 and L2. If you get a reading of infinity on all three tests then the service is good for connection.
If you have a missing neutral you have a problem that needs to be corrected. You cannot connect to the ground because you will create potential ground loops. Unless you can provide more information you need an electrician. I guess he could be up to the new code and have an empty neutral pulled to a switch box? Who knows......
Some older wire does not have a ground. All you can do in that case is use a jumper wire to connect the ground to the neutral.
I assume you mean you are wiring a 220 volt circuit. You will install a 220 volt double pole breaker of the correct size for the circuit. An example would be for an electric dryer that requires a 30 amp double pole breaker wired with 10/3 wire. You connect the Red & Black wires to the breaker. One on each screw. You now connect the White wire to the neutral bus bar in the service panel. Then connect the bare copper ground wire to the ground bus bar in the service panel. At the dryer outlet connect the black & red to the hot screws, white to the neutral, and ground to ground. They will be labeled on the back of the outlet.
On a 200 amp or any size service the ground wire is easily identified. Look in the distribution panel for the neutral bus bar. This is where the service neutral (white wire) is connected to the distribution panel. There you will see a bare copper wire connected to the same neutral bar. This is the ground wire that is connected to the ground rods out side of the house.