The 240 transformer that delivers power to your home has a "center tap", which gives 120 VAC to each side from the center and 240 from "hot" to "hot". It sounds like you're describing it correctly. Use the center tap and one of the hot lines to give you 120VAC, and there should be a ground bar inside the breaker panel that you would use to provide ground to the plug. The neutral and ground may or may not come from the same "source", depending on what you're trying to do. If you run a 240 feeder to a subpanel in a separate building you run two hots and a neutral and you put in a separate grounding rod to connect to the ISOLATED ground in the subpanel. The neutral and ground are not allowed to be connected together in that configuration. If you're running a 120 circuit instead, you run hot, neutral and ground together from the main panel to the subpanel.
Black & Red are hot, and White is neutral. If it has no place to connect neutral connect neutral to ground.
If there is no ground wire connect the ground wire to the neutral wire.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
Purchase a ground rod from an electrical supply. Drive it into the ground just outside where your service is located. Install a ground cable from the neutral bar in the fuse box to the ground rod and clamp both ends. Voila, you have done it!
remember the + side of the speaker basically means neutral, in all electric projects the - is always the live line, so if + means neutral that basically means that ground would also be neutral, speakers dont need ground, so if u wish connect + with neutral on the speaker.
Ground wire can be appropriately bonded to the neutral and cabinet at the service box by connecting the neutral and ground wires from the feeder wires to the neutral bus bar and the ground terminal located on the same cabinet at the service box. White wire (neutral) must be connected to bus bar and bare wire must be connected to ground terminal in the same cabinet.
If you have to connect the neutral to ground to make the circuit work then you have an open neutral in your circuit. Be careful in handling the neutral as there can be voltage potential on the neutral if a load is connected. In a properly wired home that has been inspected by the local electrical inspector the neutral should be bonded to the ground at the main service distribution point. There will be a green screw that projects through the neutral bus and is threaded into the back of the electrical panel. This should be the one and only place in the whole electrical system where this neutral to ground connection takes place. Dangerous!!!!! The ground is the safety to prevent you from getting shocked due to a malfunctioning piece of equipment. By using the ground for a neutral you will be energizing the entire ground system of you house or business. Thus anything with metal on it and a ground wire going to it will be electrified if the ground fails at the breaker box or building ground rod. Do you want to take this risk? Not I..........
Some older wire does not have a ground. All you can do in that case is use a jumper wire to connect the ground to the neutral.
If you are connecting 120 volts, you connect the black wire to the breaker, white wire to the neutral bar, and ground wire to the ground bar. If you are connecting 240 volts connect the black & white wires to the breaker, & ground wire to the ground bar.
If you have a missing neutral you have a problem that needs to be corrected. You cannot connect to the ground because you will create potential ground loops. Unless you can provide more information you need an electrician. I guess he could be up to the new code and have an empty neutral pulled to a switch box? Who knows......
If the service is connected you can not megger the service ahead of the main breaker. If the service is waiting for connection all you can do is megger between the wires. As the underground service is installed in PVC conduit, no ground circuit will be available between the underground conductors and the PVC conduit. Connect the black lead to the neutral bar in the meter base. Connect the other lead to the L1 lead and ring it. Do the same to the L2 lead. Then disconnect the lead from the neutral bar in the meter base and connect it to L1. Connect the other lead to L2 if it is not still connected from the last operation. Ring the line between L1 and L2. If you get a reading of infinity on all three tests then the service is good for connection.
The electrical code states that the only place that the ground wire comes into contact with the neutral wire is at the distribution panel. All other circuits connected to the distribution panel require the ground to come back as a separate wire. No where in the field wiring must a neutral wire connect to a ground wire.
On a 200 amp or any size service the ground wire is easily identified. Look in the distribution panel for the neutral bus bar. This is where the service neutral (white wire) is connected to the distribution panel. There you will see a bare copper wire connected to the same neutral bar. This is the ground wire that is connected to the ground rods out side of the house.
I assume you mean you are wiring a 220 volt circuit. You will install a 220 volt double pole breaker of the correct size for the circuit. An example would be for an electric dryer that requires a 30 amp double pole breaker wired with 10/3 wire. You connect the Red & Black wires to the breaker. One on each screw. You now connect the White wire to the neutral bus bar in the service panel. Then connect the bare copper ground wire to the ground bus bar in the service panel. At the dryer outlet connect the black & red to the hot screws, white to the neutral, and ground to ground. They will be labeled on the back of the outlet.
Yes, you may connect the ground and neutral together as long as this is a replacement in an exsisting dwelling,for new construction you must have a four wire circuit with separate neutral and grounding conductor.It was never the intention of the code to make home owners replace exsisting three wire circuits with four wire when replacing equipment. .
no, you ground the neutral
Completes the circuit to ground. In a home or commercial power center, neutral is connected to ground at Main Panel which is bonded to earth ground. The neutral is the return path back to the utilities transformer and is bonded to the grounding conductor at the main service equipment.
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hertz supply service.Nothing but the neutral bus should be bonded to the ground electrode.
Ground and neutral should only be connected at the main electric panel to prevent parallel neutral currents. If it is a new installation, you must provide four wires (two hots, 1 neutral, & 1 ground) and connect to the four separate (appropriate) places on the dryer. If it is an existing installation and it only has three wires (two hots and a neutral) connect the neutral to both the neutral and ground connection of the dryer (the National Electrical Code allows this exception for older homes). Call a qualified electrician to do any electrical work.
Neutral is neither Hot nor ground. Neutral is the return wire for electrical service. It is a requirement , by law, that the Neutral Wire Feed into an electrical service box (main panel) be BONDED to the box and the Earth ground. Thie effectively makes the neutral in circuits out of the service panel equal to ground. But as it enters the service panel from the utility and meter pan, it is not ground. <<>> The only time that the neutral can have voltage on it is if it gets disconnected from the distribution point. Then the voltage that is supplied to the load will continue through the load and stop at the disconnection point. If you touch the uninsulated part of the neutral wire and touch any grounded equipment at the same time your body will act as a conductor for the load circuit. You will receive a nasty shock. This scenario is the only time that the neutral is "hot".
Neutral will be closest to protective earth ground. In the US, neutral is white. we can check using tester ,when tester is connected to phase only lamp of the tester glows and when it is connected to the nuetral the lamp does not glow. another method is, connect the voltmeter to any one of the terminal and ground if the voltmeter shows 110v 0r 220v then it is phase and the other is nuetral.
A bare grounded neutral should never get close to the ground if it is wired properly. When the neutral leaves the meter base it is in conduit and should enter into the distribution panel where it connects to the neutral buss. It is at this junction that the copper ground wire is connected after coming from the outside ground rod or ground plate which ever grounding system was used.
In the US, the common usage of these colors is: BLACK: Hot - connected to one phase of the service AC. WHITE: Connected to the Neutral of the service AC. GREEN: Connected to the GROUND bus at the service entrance. At the service entrance, the GROUND and the NEUTRAL bus are connected together.
If you are working with a sub panel, there are a few reasons to isolate the neutral. Firstly, currents will then return to the main panel and service ground.