sounds like exhaust restriction ... check the vaccum at the base of throttle body. also consider hosing down the throttle intake with carb cleaner whilst running and of course valve timing is critical. spark timing not so much as the pcm will correct small errors I have a 95 metro with the 1.0 and have the same problem. I am a mechanic and have been fighting this since ove a year ago. I have replaced wires, plugs, used GM service manual and checked all the peramiters on the sensors. Fuel pressure is at spec. New fuel filter also. I can get mine started, it will idle, when i depress the accelerator nothing happens. I have used an ECM from another 95 like mine and still the same problem, also have used a different 95 throttle body and the same results. You didn't mention it, but if it does run, when you depress the accelerator does it slowly pick up RPM that is abnormal? This is a problem I am fighting. I have read other questions and saw that almost the same problem with a timing belt jump, so I guess the next step will see if I am at top dead center...I know I have good compression becasue about 6 months before it went down I completely rebuilt the engine....
If you step on the brake pedal while the car is moving, and nothing happens.
It is when after you step on the gas pedal and then let off, the pedal does not return to normal position. The result is extremely unexpected and dangerous.
* Front pedal down = 1. Back pedal down = 2,3,4,5. Neutral between 1 and 2. * Front pedal, no further movement, 1st. Back pedal, no further movement, 5th.
try bleeding the brakes or checking the fluid
The brake pedal has nothing to do with it. If air is in the system then bleed the brakes.
gotta be more specific. nothing happens when u push the loud pedal? linkage probably screwed up or cable isn't attached or broken.
Possibly nothing more than the brake pedal return spring catching on something.
Is your clutch pedal depressed? If it is, check switch on clutch pedal.
The plane yaws left.
clutch pedal free play decreases
Public Transport Buses, trains, metro (trams), taxis Private Transport Cars, motorbikes, pedal cycles, walking.
The engine RPM (Revolutions per Minute) increases.
Actually if the fluid is coming down the clutch pedal it is probably your clutch master cylinder going bad or the seal around it. No worries it is a cheap fix. If it is coming down the clutch pedal it has nothing to do with your brakes. Some people well most use brake fluid for the clutch.
I have a later Topaz, but it should be the same....It is a pretty clean job. Simply sit in the car, put your foot under the clutch pedal, & it will pull towards you slightly, you may hear a click. Depress the pedal to the floor, & your done. It may take a couple of 'adjustments. If nothing happens, you're out of room for adjustment.
Try to pump it to build up the pressure.
Pressure is released from the hydraulic system and brake pistons relax.
theres no clutch cable on the freelander. its an hydraulic system with automatic adjustment. if its going into gear and the clutch pedal feels ok, then more than likely the gearbox is shot
The first thing I would recommend is thoroughly cleaning the throttle body and mass airflow sensor! This will probably fix your problem. If it doesn't, it could be some kind of problem with the fuel pump, or less likely, the ECU.
The brake pedal will go to the floor but will have absolutely no effect on stopping the vehicle. When you push on the brake pedal it moves the fluid through metal tubes (called brake lines) to force the brake pads against the rotor which slows and stops the car. No fluid means nothing is in there to make the brake pads engage the rotors.
Could be a bad clutch plate, failing throw-out bearing, or other issues. If soon you press the clutch pedal and nothing happens, one of those mentioned is the most likely reason.
Throttle position or pedal position sensor/switch circuit, low input
nothing it could just be the tail lights coming on.
The Digitech talker was a talkbox effects pedal for guitar. It was discontinued and as of 2014 nothing has replaced it.
Sticking Brake LightsI had this very same problem when I owned a Nissan 300zx. There is a switch in front of the brake pedal that when the brake pedal is pressed the metal part of the pedal presses down on a little button which turns the brake lights on when pressing the pedal. What I did was I got under the dash, took a flashlight and put a little piece of tape in between the pedal and the switch. It acted as a cushion because the pedal wasn't pushing down on the switch as it was pushing on the tape and when I pressed on the pedal the lights would come on but the tape pushed the pedal back to shut the switch off. If you want to avoid all this consider having your brake pedal adjusted. If your brake lights come on still consider having your cars wiring checked out.
Not sure, but I think it should be located on the clutch pedal arm under the dash. Kind of like your brakelight switch.