Note to all: If you have Automatic Temp Control (electronic temp setting), there is no resistor: just the blower control module (which you'll see just to lower right of blower fan, 2 screws hold it in, pop off the fan and you'll see it). The stores will sell you a resistor or condensor, or even a switch, but it has none of the above!!!!
(I spent a week looking everywhere for what the stores were saying was there somewhere behind fan!)
The blower might need replacing. Normal cause is a failed blower resistor, caused by a blower fan that is failing.The resistor and fan are located above the passenger side floor behind the glove box.
wiring fault. at max speed the resistor is bypassed
The fan will always have power under normal conditions when on. The speeds are controlled by the resistor based on the fanf switch position. The resistor is located on the black plastic fan cover under the dash and behind the glove box. The cable harness goes right into it. Follow it. Remove the screws and the resistor side of the assembly is facing the air duct side of the fan compartment. Be sure to have the a/c off when working or you may damage something or burn yourself with the resistor.
It is common for blower resistors to supersede to new style parts.
You must have the automatic controls for you HVAC system. The blower power module is what has failed and needs to be replaced.This view is from the firewall side of the HVAC case but you can see the module location on the bottom of the case [http://www.justanswer.com/view_image.aspx?href=http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Joecamel90/2009-10-05_101545_blo.gif] If you have the AC Auto controls, you do not have a resistor, you have a power module. Here are instructions covering both the resistor and the module from the service manual:BLOWER MOTOR RESISTORDESCRIPTIONA blower motor resistor is used on this model whenit is equipped with the manual heater-A/C control(Fig. 9). Models equipped with the optional Auto-maticTemperature Control (ATC) use a blower powermodule, instead of the blower motor resistor. Theblower motor resistor is installed in a mounting holein the heater/AC housing, directly behind the glovebox opening of the instrument panel. The resistorconsists of a molded plastic mounting plate with twointegral connector receptacles. Concealed behind themounting plate within the heater/AC housing arefour coiled resistor wires contained within a protec-tivestamped steel cage. The resistor mounting plateis secured with two screws to the heater/AC housingand is accessed for service by rolling down the glovebox from the instrument panel.The blower motor resistor wires will get hot whenin use. Do not touch the resistor wires or the protec-tivecage if the blower motor has been running. Theblower motor resistor cannot be adjusted or repairedand, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.OPERATIONThe blower motor resistor is connected to the vehi-cleelectrical system through a dedicated take outand connector of the instrument panel wire harness.A second connector receptacle receives the pigtailwire connector from the blower motor. The blowermotor resistor has multiple resistor wires, each ofwhich will reduce the current flow through theblower motor to change the blower motor speed. Theblower motor switch in the manual heater-A/C con-troldirects the ground path for the blower motorthrough the correct resistor wire to obtain theselected speed. With the blower motor switch in thelowest speed position, the ground path for the motoris applied through all of the resistor wires. Eachhigher speed selected with the blower motor switchapplies the blower motor ground path through fewerof the resistor wires, increasing the blower motorspeed. When the blower motor switch is in the high-estspeed position, the blower motor resistor wiresare bypassed and the blower motor receives a directpath to ground through the blower motor switch. Theblower motor resistor may be diagnosed using con-ventionaldiagnostic tools and methods.DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BLOWER MOTORRESISTORRefer to the appropriate wiring information. Thewiring information includes wiring diagrams, properwire and connector repair procedures, details of wireharness routing and retention, connector pin-outinformation and location views for the various wireharness connectors, splices and grounds.(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negativecable.(2) Disconnect the instrument panel wire harnessconnector for the blower motor resistor and theblower motor pigtail wire connector from the resistorconnector receptacles.(3) Check for continuity between each of theblower motor switch input terminals of the blowermotor resistor and the resistor output terminal. Ineach case there should be continuity. If OK, repairthe instrument panel wire harness circuits betweenthe blower motor switch and the blower motor resis-toror the blower motor pigtail wires as required. Ifnot OK, replace the faulty blower motor resistor.REMOVALWARNING: THE BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR MAYGET VERY HOT DURING NORMAL OPERATION. IFTHE BLOWER MOTOR WAS TURNED ON, WAITFIVE MINUTES TO ALLOW THE BLOWER MOTORRESISTOR TO COOL BEFORE PERFORMING DIAG-NOSISOR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THIS PRE-CAUTIONCAN RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.CAUTION: Do not operate the blower motor with theblower motor resistor removed from the circuit.Failure to take this precaution can result in vehicledamage.(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negativecable.(2) Open the glove box.(3) Flex both sides of the glove box bin inwardnear the top far enough for the rubber glove box stopbumpers to clear the sides of the glove box opening,then roll the glove box downward.(4) Reach through the glove box opening to accessand disconnect the instrument panel wire harnessconnector for the blower motor resistor from theresistor connector receptacle (Fig. 10).(5) Reach through the glove box opening to accessand disconnect the blower motor pigtail wire connec-torfrom the resistor connector receptacle.(6) Remove the two screws that secure the blowermotor resistor to the evaporator housing.(7) Remove the blower motor resistor from theevaporator housing.INSTALLATIONCAUTION: Do not operate the blower motor with theblower motor resistor removed from the circuit.Failure to take this precaution can result in vehicle(1) Position the blower motor resistor into theevaporator housing.(2) Install and tighten the two screws that securethe blower motor resistor to the evaporator housing.Tighten the screws to 2 N•m (17 in. lbs.).(3) Reconnect the blower motor pigtail wire con-nectorto the blower motor resistor connector recep-tacle.(4) Reconnect the instrument panel wire harnessconnector for the blower motor resistor to the resistorconnector receptacle.(5) Flex both sides of the glove box bin inwardnear the top far enough for the rubber glove box stopbumpers to clear the sides of the glove box opening,then roll the glove box upward.(6) Close and latch the glove box.(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.POWER MODULEDESCRIPTIONA blower power module is used on this model whenit is equipped with the optional Automatic Tempera-tureControl (ATC) (Fig. 22). Models equipped withthe standard manual heater-A/C control use a blowermotor resistor, instead of the blower power module.The blower power module is installed in a mountinghole in the evaporator housing, directly behind theglove box opening of the instrument panel. The mod-uleconsists of a molded plastic mounting plate withtwo integral connector receptacles. Concealed behindthe mounting plate within the evaporator housing isthe power module electronic circuitry and a largefinned, heat sink. The module mounting plate issecured with two screws to the evaporator housingand is accessed for service by rolling down the glovebox from the instrument panel.The power module heat sink will get hot when inuse. Do not touch the heat sink if the blower motorhas been running. The blower power module cannotbe adjusted or repaired and, if faulty or damaged, itmust be replaced.OPERATIONThe blower power module is connected to the vehi-cleelectrical system through a dedicated take outand connector of the instrument panel wire harness.A second connector receptacle receives the pigtailwire connector from the blower motor. The blowerpower module allows the microprocessor-based Auto-maticTemperature Control (ATC) heater-A/C controlmodule to calculate and provide infinitely variableblower motor speeds based upon either manualblower switch input or the ATC programming using aPulse Width Modulated (PWM) circuit strategy. ThePWM voltage is applied to a comparator circuitwhich compares the PWM signal voltage to theblower motor feedback voltage. The resulting outputdrives the power module circuitry, which adjusts thevoltage output received from the blower motor relayto change or maintain the desired blower speed. Theblower power module is diagnosed using a DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic infor-mation.(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negativecable.(2) Open the glove box.(3) Flex both sides of the glove box bin inwardnear the top far enough for the rubber glove box stopbumpers to clear the sides of the glove box opening,then roll the glove box downward.(4) Reach through the glove box opening to accessand disconnect the instrument panel wire harnessconnector for the power module from the module con-nectorreceptacle.(5) Reach through the glove box opening to accessand disconnect the blower motor pigtail wire connec-torfrom the power module connector receptacle.(6) Remove the two screws that secure the powermodule to the evaporator housing.(7) Remove the power module from the evaporatorhousing.INSTALLATIONWARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-BAGS,DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFOREATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERINGCOLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENTDIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-LATETHE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-TEMCAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-FORMINGFURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THISIS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAGSYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-CAUTIONSCOULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-BAGDEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONALINJURY.(1) Position the power module into the evaporatorhousing.(2) Install and tighten the two screws that securethe power module to the evaporator housing. Tightenthe screws to 2 N•m (18 in. lbs.).(3) Reconnect the blower motor pigtail wire con-nectorto the power module connector receptacle.(4) Reconnect the instrument panel wire harnessconnector for the power module to the module con-nectorreceptacle.(5) Flex both sides of the glove box bin inwardnear the top far enough for the rubber glove box stopbumpers to clear the sides of the glove box opening,then roll the glove box upward.(6) Close and latch the glove box.(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
This was a very common problem with the original modules in this vehicle. Luckily, there is an updated module that now also comes with a new wiring harness that addresses the heat range and tolerance. You can typically find the resistor module online for 80 or 90 dollars (make sure it's the updated version or you may just run into the same problem again down the road, and as well, pick up a new updated wiring harness. From there if you're handy it's a snap. The resistor is held on by two screw. Undo the screws to free the old one, and then undo the wiring harness on the one side (red/black wires)...and snip off the other side's wires. Take your new harness and solder the new wires on, then attach the actual module's wiring harness, screw the two screws back in and you should be back to normal.
A resistor is a resistor. Plain and simple. By Ohm's Law, resistance in ohms is voltage in volts divided by current in amperes. The difference lies in application, not in the resistor itself. A normal resistor will introduce a voltage drop or current that makes some effect in the circuit, based on some design criteria. A bleeder resistor, on the other hand does not really affect the circuit - it is only there to "bleed off", or discharge, capacitors when the power is turned off. Consequently, a bleeder resistor will typically have a higher resistance than a normal resistor but, again, the issue is circuit design, not the resistor itself.
connect the base of the transistor to a variable resistor and to a normal resistor
If the blower works on high speed, but not on any of the lower speeds, that usually means that the blower motor speed controller is bad. There is a resistor in there which can overheat and burn out. If the blower motor has a bad bearing (makes noise or doesn't turn as fast as it should) that would cause the system to draw more current than normal, and burn out the resistor. If that is the case, you can replace the speed controller, and that would probably fix the problem, but likely it would return in a relativly short time. Without vehicle info, a step by step instruction would be rough... But that is a place to start in you search. Hope this helps.
Defective blower motor. Although I do not know if this is the problem, I have seen this on other vehicles. Check into the blower motor resistor. RockAuto.com has them with great pictures so you know exactly what you are looking for. They are generally located close to the blower under the dash. Very easy fix just a couple of screws. Cheaper and easier than replacing the blower motor.
My wife's 2008 Tacoma blower motor stopped working at around $70,000 miles. If you kick the motor housing and it turns on/operates at normal speed, you will have to replace the blower motor. I got one from auto zone for about $100.00, that was 6 months ago. I have a new problem now. Mine is working on all of the settings, but is very weak. I am looking at the blower motor resistor, and trying to find out how to test it.
the ballast resistor is designed to turn unwanted current into heat high temperatures are normal.
Open up your glovebox way open, like, past normal open mode. Look for some plugs and stuff on the right hand side. one of these plugs will lead to the resistors. Be careful, they break easily
This resistor (actually a set of them all in one package) controls the blower motor speeds. If your blower only goes high, or off, then this has gone bad. Fortunately its trivial to change in the sportage. The replacement part is about $50 online. It's located under the passenger side dash, and it is held on with 2 Phillips head screws. Disconnect the plug, unscrew, and replace and reconnect. Takes 5 minutes. Once you get the replacement part it will be obvious. I don't know who posted this but they have not replaced a resistor in an 98 to 02 Kia Sportage I know this because the resistor is actually behind the glove box! You will have to take off the glove box and get behind it, but be careful and be sure that you understand how the glove box is attached and remove all screws, both sides of the inner glove box (you do this by pushing on each side in turn it will probably be obvious to you when you look at it) and the lever on the right side below the compartment. Then you will be able to see the resistor on top (not on the bottom) of the blower. You will need a screwdriver that flexes at the tip to remove the screws because there is not enough space to get a normal screwdriver on top of the screws. All other info above is correct. (Little longer than 5 mins but still very doable)
Quite likely your resistor is partial broken. It is usually a little rectangular ceramic looking unit inside or close to your blower motor in the blower housing, sometimes they are a little tricky to find. More than likely it will look cracked but is still holding together at this point, it can only get a little worse (as in completely break and no blower). They just wear out under normal use in modern vehicles and frequently need to be replaced from anywheres from about 4-7 years, at least that's what it's been in my vehicles.
If the starting current is too high it is common to switch in a series resistor to limit the current. This is most common with a series-wound motor. At normal speed the resistor can be switched out.
In the same spot as a normal explorer, in line at the top of the tank, rear end of the tank, I believe.
No Blower in Floor Mode A customer arrives with a 1983 to 1995 Full Size Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury automobile with automatic temperature control. If the complaint is no blower operation when the floor mode is selected, the vehicle may have a problem with the thermal blower lockout switch also referred to as the CELO (cold engine lock out switch). The thermal blower lock out switch is located in the heater core intake hose. The two wire switch has a thermal element with a small set of contacts, the contacts are open when the coolant is below 120Â°F and closed when the coolant is above 120Â°F. The thermal blower lock out switch also contains a vacuum switch, which applies vacuum to the outside/recirculate valve when the system is in the floor position. When the engine coolant is below 120 degrees and the selector is set to floor position, the thermal blower lock out prevents blower from turning on and closes off the outside air during engine warm-up. When the coolant temperature is above 120 degrees, and the selector is set to the floor position, the thermal blower lock out switch allows the blower to operate and opens the outside air door. In order to diagnose this problem, test the thermal blower lockout switch with the engine at normal operating temperature (above 120Â°F). Unplug the wire harness connector from the thermal blower lockout switch. Using a 15-amp fused wire, jumper the harness terminals to test the switch. If the blower comes on, the thermal blower lock out switch is faulty. If the blower doesn't come on, look for an open between the control head selector and thermal blower lock out switch. In some cases the blower may continually run even when the engine temperature is below 120 degrees. Unplug the thermal blower lock out switch and if the blower motor turns off, the thermal blower lock out switch is faulty. If the motor continues to run, look for a short to power between the control head selector and thermal blower lock out switch
A resistor in a sensor circuit is used as a simple way to monitor the function of the circuit. The resistor has a calibrated and known voltage drop and current while the circuit is "normal". If there is a short-circuit, or an open-circuit, the voltage and current will change and trigger the trouble alarm.
Overdrive allowed is the NORMAL position
it has an ear phone hole at the top and it fits normal sized earphones
In a normal circuit, with a resistor for example, the voltage and current are in proportion, which is known an Ohm's law.
I had a similar problem on a couple of different autos. Don't have a wiring diagram in front of me but it could be the same.Check for a resistor from power (+12v) to the positive side of the coil. There is probably two wires to the coil plus side. One from the key switch for starting (no resistor), and the other from +12v (dropping thru the resistor) for normal running.Hope it helps. P.S. The resistor could be in a number of forms. ie. a resistor terminal on the post, a resistor wire, or a box on the firewall.
it cools itself down, that is normal
yes. because the normal bulb load involve only resistor. the direction of source is not considered