There have been many rumors about fuel filter locations etc... on the plastic tank neons. I own a 1997 currently and have owned tons of first generation Neons 1995-1999. The fuel filter is part of the fuel pressure regulator and is locating to the passenger side of the fuel tank. It is easily accessible. The part you'll be searching for on your car and at the local parts store is small the canister is like the size of a baby food jar and it also has an electrical pig tail attached and the fuel is supplied with one hose in and one house out (return-less fuel system). I think part of what people get confused about is that there is a filter of sorts installed in the tank at the end of the fuel pump p pickup tube but this is just a pre-filter just keeps larger particles from getting lodged in the expensive pump assembly 250-300 bucks. The fuel system on this car keeps the fuel rail charged with aprox. 45 PSI of fuel at all running conditions and adjusts fuel delivery for the engine by shortening or lengthening the injector duty cycle (how long the injector is open) Its actually a pretty good system and makes fuel system diagnosis easier because the fuel pressure should always stay at the 45 psi regardless of engine load or RPM. clear things up.AnswerDear Neon Owner, i am responding to your question because i myself have a '97 noen. Here is the problem, the fuel filter for your car is said not to exist. for some reason the makers of the car decided that they would do away with the change-able fuel filter and just have a fuel filter / pressure regulator in-one. this is located on the inside of the tank and does not need to be changed on a regular basis (unless of course work is being done involving the removal of the gas tank).
the funny thing is, on the 1995 neon i had before, the filter was located right under the gas tank. Under the rear passenger side of the car the fuel filter was covered be a little metal shield that had to be removed before accesing the filter. what I'm finding interesting on my 97 neon is that i have something that looks identical to a fuel filter exactly where the fuel filter should be on my 95 neon but it's on my 97. it theoretically isn't supposed to be there, but it is. i have gone to lots of places and i can't get anyone to tell me what the hell is going on and I'm afraid to remove it because if it isn't the fuel filter that miraculously showed up, what the hell is it and why is it there?
Struggling with this too. Chilton say on 95's the filter is attached with three lines to the tank. On 96-99, that became the accumulator (to keep pressure in the system after shutoff). The filter and regulator snaps into the fuel pump which is integral to the gas tank.AnswerThe Changeable Fuel Filter are on some 1997 models. If you have a metal gas tank then you have a changeable Fuel Filter. AnswerI looked into the same thing today, I went to the auto parts store looked at a repair book that shows how to fix neons 95-99, and there it showed it outside of the tank, the guy that was working at the auto parts showed me it and I looked underneath my car and was on the outside. It was $20.00 for the filter. I decided that I will take mine to a garage since I am not mechanical. In the book there was 11 steps on how to put the fuel pump on. Answerautozone says its here...UNDER VEHICLE, CENTER, BELOW SEATING AREA, MOUNTED ON TOP OF FUEL TANK, IN FUEL PUMP MODULE Which also means that it's serviced by replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Which can be seen at this link here (yours is the same as 1996-1999)http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/AZ/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/91/21/0900823d80199121.jsp I tried to post a small picture that says it all but couldn't . By the way my fuel filter lasted from 96 until 04 when the pump finally called it quits. AnswerI could explain it myself, but I found this on another forum and it pretty much says it all...
"...the ï¿½FILTER, Fuel Pressure Regulatorï¿½ is mounted on the mounting flange of the fuel pump on the external side. The incorrect diagram will lead the parts counter personnel to tell you that you have to remove the fuel pump to change the filter and/or they will try to give you #2. Despite what they tell you, tell them you want Part # 4546610. If they insist it wonï¿½t work, just have them pull a new fuel pump from the shelf, and look at it, they will find Part #4546610 mounted on the exterior of the mounting flange of the pump.
And changing the Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator is as simple as pulling the fuel line w/ the quick disconnects and then pressing in the spring tab and turning as you pull it out.
The only difficulty I encountered changing this Filter/Pressure Regulator has been the tight space it is in, it would be a 2 minute job if your hand fit into the area easily, instead itï¿½s a 20 minute job as you struggle to apply enough pressure on the quick disconnects and tabs with so little space to squeeze your hands into.
How often should you change the fuel filters on a vehicle? That is a debate that there is no correct answer. Most would disagree with the Chrysler recommendation that it will last the life of the vehicle, or at least the life of the fuel pump, which you do get both filters brand new with a new fuel pump. On the other hand, if you wait until the filter clogs, youï¿½ll be buying a new fuel pump with that new fuel filter.
Filters usually clog when you get foreign substance and particles in the gas tank, or if you put poor quality gas in the tank; so if you never have that happen a filter may last for the life of the vehicle. You could have a brand new filter clog from one tank of bad gas, or driving thru a dust bowl when after forgetting to tighten down your gas cap.
Unless you get symptoms of a clogged fuel filter, which many people jump to conclusions that their fuel filter is clogged when they get fuel system problems and its not, I personally would change the filter every 50k miles.
The sock filter, in the tank, this is very difficult to change, as well, itï¿½s a very rough filter to only filter out large particles letting most small stuff pass thru for the finer filter after the pump to catch. Most people only change this filter with the fuel pump and never experience any problem with this change interval, it rarely clogs and effects the performance of the vehicle." -From other forum
After Dealing with this for the past few days, I have some answers to help virtually any question concerning the pump/filter/diagnosing. I hope this help and save you the hours and hours I have into proving people wrong about this thing:
Here is how to easily test the filter without actually doing a volume test on the fuel system. Turn the key to the on position a bunch of times activating the pump each time to make sure the lines are primed. Then release the pressure via the SCHRADER VALVE located on the fuel rail. Then hook up a pressure tester. When you turn the key on, the pressure should immediately jump to 50psi or so. If it takes longer than 1/10 or so of a second to build pressure, there is a restriction, or in other words your filter is clogged. If you let it go, you will burn up the pump. If you find that you have to turn the car over for 15 seconds for it to start and the test shows a clogged filter, it is because the check valve in the pump is bad from excessive pressure, and the pump will be lucky to make it another 6-months to a year depending on the gas you use/climate, etc. unless you remove the restriction. Simply cut the line in front of the regulator/filter and put a check valve inline. Make sure you use high pressure hose clamps and ribbed nipples on the valve, or the pressure will blow the line off. The part numbers for the regulator/filter are: NAPA-Echlin #CRB 219781 Oreilly's/Advance:BWD #24026 Auto Zone:Gp-Sorensen #800-438 Auto Value/Bumper to Bumper:Parts Master #GF9200. The tab that you push in to turn the filter before you pull it out is on the top, feel up the top of the filter and you will find it immediately. Just push it tight to the filter and turn, I had to use channel locks on mine to break it free. If you have to reuse the fat 2" fabric looking seal that goes between the filter and the tank, make sure you give it plenty of time to dry out before putting it back in, as it swells when wet-that is how it seals. When it dries it shrinks and will fit very nicely. ONe last thing-If you are not sure if you will be replacing this $50 part, be very careful when pulling the line off the filter. The weld broke on the seam of the nipple on mine, and it is stainless and full of fuel so there is no way to patch it up. J-B weld chips right off with your fingernail when dry. If you get ballsy and try to braze/solder it, DO NOT HEAT WHEN EMPTY/AFTER BEING DRAINED. Make darn sure it is AT LEAST 3/4 full, as the vapors are what explode: An empty tank is GUARANTEED to explode from excessive heat, where a full tank will not if the pressure can escape. A 1:6 fuel/oxygen ratio is required for ignition.
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