The thermostat is located in the engine compartment on the passenger's side near the distributor cap. The thermostat is located in a cylindrical housing containing three or four wired sensors. The housing is connected to the cylinder head to the left of (behind) the distributor (looking in from passenger's side). There is a 1-1/4" black hose going from the end of the thermostat housing (housing cover) to the upper radiator. That is the easiest indicator to locate the thermostat housing. The labor time is about an 90 minutes if all goes well. The housing cover can be removed with the hose attached by removing the two hex bolts with a #10 socket. I broke a "stuck" bolt on this housing trying to get it out. NEVER use a drill-like device called an "E-Z out" because they don't work. I had it so botched up, I had to buy a whole new housing ($80) just because the last guy didn't coat the screw threads with thread sealant. Believe me, use thread sealant. 1.)Buy a new thermostat (~$30) before starting and notice only one side has a spring. 2.)Buy a new "upper" radiator hose/hose clamps (~$20). (Optional-it's pretty easy and no leaks this way.) 3.)RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (ie. Permatex Item # 22071) 4.)Anti-seize Lubricant (ie. Permatex Item # 81343) 5.)Penetrating oil to loosen screws. I noticed that the aftermarket thermostats have a smaller hole for coolant to pass through than the original/dealer "stats" do. So I bought an original equipment thermostat (~$45) because I HATE temperature problems -- they affect everything from the engine to the tranny to the A/C. But it's definitely OK to go to Kragen or Autozone if you want. Before beginning, spray the thermostat-cover bolts with penetrating oil about an hour before starting the project. Best if you can spray them just after the engine is turned off and they're still hot/warm so the penetrant will work better. Next, you MUST drain some of the coolant first or you'll have a BIG MESS. After you drain some of the coolant (1/2 gal./couple of qts.), put some rags under the thermostat-cover/hose junction and remove the two bolts. Pull the housing cover off. After the housing-cover/hose assembly is off, the thermostat is easily seen -- hopefully you bought a replacement "stat" before starting so you know what to look for. You'll see the "pointy side" sticking out and you just pull on that and the stat will come out -- look out 'cause there will be some coolant leaking out from behind the thermostat when you remove it (that's why you stuff some rags underneath the work area). Carefully scrape the ridge the "stat" sits in to remove any deposits interfering with the new "stat's" ability to seat correctly. Wipe out and clean the area. Install the new thermostat with the spring side in and the pointy side out towards the radiator hose. Clean off the thermostat-cover of old gasket material and apply the RTV Silicone to the interface area of the thermostat-cover. Install the housing cover/hose assembly with the two bolts treated with thread sealant (i.e. anti-seize lube). Don't crank the screws down hard (10 ft-lbs.) and refill the radiator. Check for leaks. If you decide to change the upper radiator hose before refilling, the hoses can be a little stubborn as they get stuck on the metal nipples. You may have to twist/rotate the hose back and forth with a large pliers (gently -- don't tear up the rubber hose) to loosen it and then you can pull it off. Use new hose clamps and put them on the new hose before sliding the hose over the radiator or thermostat-cover nipple. I like to put a THIN FILM of multi-purpose grease on the nipples to prevent the hose sticking and it's easier to slide on. The hose clamps should be not be located on top of the nipple's "shoulder". Rather, the clamps should be positioned just behind the nipple's shoulder to get a leak-resistant grip on the nipple. Don't overtighten the clamps (if the clamp can't be rotated, it's about right) -- tighten later when the hose is hot, if leaking. The hose's fit and the clamp are enough to prevent leaks. You'll know the thermostat is working properly by checking the upper radiator hose after the engine is running about ten minutes. The radiator fan usually comes on twice during this period. The thermostat will open when the engine coolant is getting hot (~135F) and the thermostat will allow coolant to flow into the radiator through the upper hose. You'll feel the hose get hot (careful). This also happens to be the way to check if the thermostat is not working properly. Sometimes a defective thermostat will allow water all the time (engine takes a long time to warm up) OR it never opens and the hose is cool and the engine stays hot.
The horn on a 1987 Honda Prelude is located behind the front bumper of the vehicle. It is mounted in front of the engine block.
Yes you can I have 1988 Honda prelude with the 2.0L in it.
try this site http://www.modifiedlife.com/1987-honda-prelude-car-audio-wiring-diagram/
Not sure if 1987 is the same, but my 1985 Honda Prelude has the dipstick located in front of the radiatior, down kind of low.
The 1987 Honda Prelude has a timing belt. It's made of rubber and is grooved to match up with the cogs on the engine. It does not have a metal chain.
Where is the thermostat located on a 1987 Buick LeSabre?
open the gas cap
firewall beside the dog bone mount round black filter with two lines on top
The answer is no. The fuel-injected engine from your 1987 Accord is a direct-fit into a 1985-1987 Prelude Si, but will not fit into a 1988 or newer Prelude due to a completely different engine and transmission being used. The wiring harnesses and ECU will also be very different.
The thermostat on a 1987 BMW 325i can be found by following the upper radiator hose. The thermostat will be located on the side of the engine.
the thermostat is located on the passenger side of the car if you are looking directly at the engine after raising the hood it is on the end of the upper radiator hose in the housing simply remove the two bolts and remove old thermostat and put the new thermostat and rubber gasket in the same way old came out
i wouldn't swap it, the 87 is carbureated and the prelude is fuel injected, just put the same engine in. the 87 accord engine has less hp .
the SI is not carborated it is fuel injected.
Follow the top radiator hose at the end of that hose is the thermostat housing. The thermostat is located under the thermostat housing.
Not all cars have one. I don't think this is one that has.
The transmission dipstick on a 1987 Honda Civic is located to the left of the oil dipstick. It is close to the left edge of the engine.
don't know, but wish i did, that's my issue exactly
FOLLOW BOTTOM HOSE FROM RADIATOR, UNDO THE 10MM BOLTS, REPLACE THERMOSTAT WITH NEW ONE...AFTER CLEANING SURFACES,NEW GASKET SHOULD BE PUT IN. TIGHTEN BOLTS BACK UP... BAZZING!!
it is located between the rear fenders
Shoot me an e-mail and I can send you a PDF of how to do this. CBspeckman@comcast.net
Duet - 1987 Prelude - 1.1 was released on: USA: 19 April 1987
Lean over the right front fender (US passenger side) near the firewall. Look down for a 1" cooling hose connected to a multiport body. Where the hose lands is a cast fitting. Unbolt it and find the thermostat there.
Duet - 1987 Prelude 1-1 was released on: USA: 19 April 1987
The Thermostat is located to the pasenger side of the Valve cover, just folow your upper radiator hose back and it will be in the housing that the hose conects too.
Should be located in the removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose