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Follow the upper rad hose from the rad to the engine and it is just as you get to the engine in that bump. Make sure to put the spring toward the engine when replacing the thermostat. There's MUCH, MUCH MORE. Unless you have little tiny Spider Monkey hands, one must also remove the following in order to gain sufficient access to the thermostat housing bolts: Air cleaner and housing; Air cleaner mounting bracket (the rest of the housing that's still bolted on); Mass airflow sensor (4 Phillips head screws); Idle Air Control valve (back side of throttle body-2 Phillips screws); MAP sensor (front of throttle body-2 Phillips screws); Heater pipe (remove small piece of hose, then nut w/bracket from thermostat bolt); Bolt from longer heater pipe (easier removal of short rubber hose). It's been 2 years since I did this job myself. Took about 4 hours. There may be some more minor things to remove that I may have forgotten. SOME IMPORTANT NOTES: There's an O-ring on the end of the heater pipe that comes out of the intake manifold. Mine was old and stretched, and was responsible for an extra hour and a half of labor. It leaked badly. I cut the ring to fit snugly (just cut it, fit it into the groove, then cut off the excess. In the unlikely event it still fits, do nothing.), then wrapped it thoroughly with about 4 or 5 layers of Teflon tape. To date, and it's been 2 years, it doesn't leak. Also be careful with that long section of heater pipe; it tends to corrode, as do ALL GM cooling systems. I replaced mine with a length of heater hose...the rest of the 1 foot I bought to replace the short section while doing the thermostat. Good luck.

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โˆ™ 2007-04-27 14:24:31
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Q: Where is the thermostat located on a 1992 Buick Century?
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