If this is a manual tranny check the pilot bushing in the flywheel for binding /lack of lubricant. At cold it will shift fine, at hot one cannot shift unless the engine is shut down due to this bushing/bearing binding up.
Have you checked the fluid level? Have you changed the filter and fluid as normal maintenance?
You might want to check your transmission fluid, with your engine running, open the hood, find the transmission "dipstick" pull it out and check tel level of fluid on it. If the level is normal, then you should go to your garage mechanic, not the dealership(unless still under warrenty).
Answer 1I'm not familiar with your vehicle, so this answer will be generic based on the symptoms you describe. On most vehicles, when the engine is cold, the engine control system sets the idle speed up above what is normal for a warm engine. As the engine warms up, the control system [a bunch of sensors combined with an engine control computer] backs off on the idle speed until, when the engine is up to normal operating temperature, the idle speed is back to it's normal [lowest] setting.Regarding the shifting difficulty, you did not mention what type of transmission you have, but I suspect that it is a manual.Manual transmissions have small "clutches," [sort of] on the gear shafts which are called SYNCRONIZERS. When a manual transmission is being shifted, the moving gears which you want to mesh are seldom spinning at the same speed, and do not want to mesh.The job of the syncronizer "clutch" is to drag on both gears, effectively slowing one down and the other slightly up, so they are both spinniing closer to the same speed, allowing them to more easily mesh. Also, until the vehicle has been driven a bit, the lubricant in the transmission is thicker, which also helps to resist movement of the shifting mechanism, contributing to the shift difficulty.The shut down time you describe allows the warm up engine heat to difuse throughout the engine, warming up the engine coolant temperature sensor enough, to then send an "engine warm" signal to the engine control system, which on restart, allows the engine to idle at a lower speed, thereby facilitating easier shifting.Hope this helps until an expert engine and transmission mechanic improves this answer.__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________The transmission on the 96 suburban is an automatic overdrive. All of the "control systems" you mentioned should do all of the heat up and RPM slowdown "automaticly" and used to do it just perfectly. Now, the RPMs stay high, above 1100 RPMs, until I shut the engine down by turning the key off. When restarted, the RPMs go high, Instantly, and then come back down below 1000RPMs and the hard shifting returns to the normal shifting. When I say "hard Shifting", I'm talking about the feeling of being "rear ended" at about 15 mph. The transimission had to be rebuilt last year because of this problem, which seem to fix the problem, but it was warmer weather...now that it's "cold" again, the problem has returned. Sometimes, not all of the times, I even get the "Check Engine" light. It seems temperature related to me, but there are so many temp sensors located all through the engine and transmission. Any other help is apprciated.
Its normal for most manual cars the clutch is basically shifting gears in the engine but if you are accelrating shifting gears higher it could jerk a little bit so it can lock the gear and preset the engine to the desired gear Now if this is an automatic here you are not hitting the brake pedal fully Transmission fluid is low or empty Or it can be just old so it can jerk a bit to get into gear... however it is potentially bad for an automatic car because it has more parts and the thing it would do the most harm to is the gearbox.
That's called the tachometer. You didn't provide much information, but maybe it only happens when you (or the automatic transmission, if you have an automatic) shift gears. If that's the case, it's normal. Shifting to a different gear at any given speed changes the RPM's of the engine. If it happens at times other than when shifting, something else is wrong.
If the transmission jerks 1st check the level of transmission fluid. To do this place the car in park, Place the parking brake on, Next start engine and pull out the transmission dip stick wipe with a clean cloth or paper towel re-insert the dip stick and check the level if low add transmission fluid to the proper level. Now drive car and if it shifts normal you are done. If the transmission does not shift then the transmission oil and filter must be changed. Once this is done test the car and if it shifts you are done. If it still jerks you will have to take it to a transmission shop for their diagnostics.
I'm stumped. Can you help answer this question? This a normal sound for the Sebring, I've had two and they both make that sound when shifting form park to drive. No tranny problems.
Overdrive ON is the normal position But if you are towing something or driving in hilly country where the transmission is constantly shifting from overdrive to drive , then you want to switch the overdrive off
When the engine revs higher than normal when you accelarate sharply, when the engine revs higher than normal backing up a slope, are the first signs.
Coolant from radiator? Run engine to normal operating temperature -remove transmission dipstick and let a drop fall on hot part of engine, oil will "smoke" coolant will "sizzle" If so a bad radiator allow transmission fluid from cooler lines to get mixed with engine coolant
3000
Generally speaking, it should not get any hotter than the normal operating temperature of your engine coolant.