if your car has a anti theft device system built into the igniton. fusible link next to the battery cables . neutral safety switch. poor groundMore detailedI have a 1995 Camaro Convertible and this happened to me a few weeks ago. Battery was only a few months old, and I had just driven the car 5 minutes earlier. It seems the anti-theft device built into most 93-97 Camaro's (and other years, probably) completely shuts off the ignition switch. When you turn the key absolutely nothing happens, even if the anti-theft 'key' is properly inserted below the dash on the driver's side. (What I did to trigger it I have no idea, since I've had the car for 10 years now and it's never happened before.)
If you wait about 15 minutes the power should be restored, and you can then start your car and drive away. It doesn't sound like one of the detailed battery problems below, since even with a bad battery you would get *some* kind of response (clicking, a voltage signal,..)
This can be hazardous. You will be working on an automotive electrical system that can not be tested with the battery disconnected. Be careful at all times, and DO NOT attempt any of this if you are not familiar with working around automotive electrical systems safely.
First, check the battery voltage, I use the 20 volt DC scale. Minimum should be over 11. Starting takes a lot of power, and a bad battery will not do it. A common sign of low battery is a clicking sound (once or continual) from the selenoid when you try to start.
Check the voltage at the battery both with the ignition key off and with it in the start position. If the voltage drops under 10 volts with the key in the start position, then the battery needs recharging or replacement.
Next check the ground to the starter (with the key off) by leaving the red lead on the positive battery terminal and moving the black lead to the outside metal of the starter. If there is a change of more than 1 volt, you have a problem in the grounding for the car.
If the battery voltage is OK, move on to testing the selenoid. This is done by putting the black wire to the metal fender inside the engine compartment, and using the red probe to check the external terminals on the selenoid.
One large wire (the battery feed) should be hot (11-14 volts) all the time, and the other (one or two) should only be hot when the key is in the 'start' position.
The small wire ignition (key) wire. If there is no voltage on that wire while the key is in 'start' then your trouble is in the key circuit and you need to track that issue.
The third wire (it it exists), attached to the starter itself is the power feed to the starter. If there is power to the ignition wire but no power out, then the problem is that the selenoid has failed.
[Key wire problems]
I had this happen lots of times on my 89 IROC-Z which I still have. If you take apart your steering column and look at where you switch is you will see two white small wires that lead into where you put your key into. These wires is what your key chip connect to for your anti theft device. They are very small and over time will break because with each key turn it pulls on them. (I had the same thing with having to wait a few mintues to start the car, I thought it was a batt problem but it wasn't) All I did is go to Chevy order your key mech and switch it out. You might have to get new keys made depending if they have the right one in stock because the voltage differs with each car. The part is about $50 or so and should only take you about an hour to remove old one and install new. After I removed the old one I installed the new and left the wires out of the bundle for easy removal at a later date for when this one goes out.
Might also check out the bolt that holds battery cable to battery. Ran across this last week. The bolt felt as though held by one thread as i cleaned and retightened. Replaced with longer bolt from parts house and got into the deeper threads in bottom of hole in battery. Fixed it.
The starter relay on a 1996 Chevy 3.8l Camaro is located in the engine compartment along the left side. It sends power to operate the starter and prevents overloads.
Check the 92 Camaro neutral safety switch next. If the switch is faulty then the starter will not get power to start the engine.
You should check the battery if it is good. Try checking to see if the power is getting to the starter when you push the button if not it might be a falty relay .If power is getting to the starter (12 volt . If less check power going into your relay ) starter may need to be replaced or repared.
bad starter or starter solenoid.
1. bad starter selenoid 2. blown fuse in the circuit 3. bad ground at the starter (not likely, but possible) Start at the starter, with a test light, and work your way back through the curcuit until you find power. That's where the problem will be. If the starter has no power move to the selenoid. If the selenoid had no power in the switch circuit move to the fuse. If the selenoid has no power on the battery side move to the fusable link. Keep working your way to the ignition switch.
1995 Ford Winstar still wi.ll not start after changing starter. Now power going to it. What can be done?
Same thing happened to my 95 z28 turned out it was the ignition coil
A slow crank or excessive power draw. Make sure that your battery is in good condition before condemning your starter.
How much horse power does a stock 2002 camaro Z28? How much horse power does a stock 2002 camaro Z28?
if the car does a click like it is going to turn OS but wont then yes it is the starter
Zero, there is not a 2008 Camaro.
camaro v6 3.4L have 165 horsepower, and the camaro v6 3.8 have 200 horsepower
it might be next to something hot. or there is to much power going to that coil. it might be next to something hot. or there is to much power going to that coil.
Sounds like the power steering pump is going bad. Check the fluid leavel
Depends on what engine and what year Camaro you're referring to...
maybe they might or the might make it into a powersngers cartoon
Power will come from the battery, through a fuse box if equpped and to the starter. The secondary source will come from the ignition switch when you turn your key. The best way is to chase down the power loss from the two sources to find out where there is a loss at, most likely a fuse/relay or short.
First, make sure your all of your electrical connections and fuses are good. (battery cables are not corroded and cable to starter and ground are good) If they are good, it sounds like you either have a bad ignition switch or starter. You might try having someone turn the ignition switch to start position while using a multi-tester to see if you are getting power to the starter. If you are getting power to the starter, and it won't engage, chances are you need a new starter. If you do not have power to the starter, you might have a bad ignition switch. In certain circumstances you might try tapping on the starter with a hammer while someone is turning the ignition switch to see if it will engage. If it will, I would look to a bad starter. I have found that a majority of the time, a starter is the problem, not the ignition switch. Hope this helps.
The larger red wires go on the larger brass terminal, and the little guy goes on the terminal marked S1 (also small). Battery power is ALWAYS going through the big red wires...the little wire gets power from the ignition switch when you turn the key to start.
It is necessary to disconnect the battery to safely install a starter. When the battery is disconnected the radio loses its presets due to no power going to it.
3 reasons either the starter is not getting power from the solenoid, solenoid is not getting power from the battery or starter is burned up.
The alarm is cutting off power to ignition and/or starter. Possibly faulty alarm. Disconnect the alarm and try again.
If your camaro has a manual transmission your starter will be on the passenger side of the of the engine right in front of the transmission and i dont think you need to remove the transmission but there should be twobolts that should be visible from underneath and as soon as you remove them just pull it forward and it should just slide out. After that you just need to remove the power cables and reverse the process. That is how it was on my car and if it is off i apologize. good luck
If the starter and battery are good then it has to be the wiring. What I have seen many times is the ground wire to the frame of the car is the problem, Be it loose or disconnected it would stop the motor from turning over. So check that the smaller of the black wires,coming from the battery,is connected good to the frame of the car and the larger of the black wires has a good connection to the motor. Another wire you would want to check,is the one comming from the key switch and going to the starter relay.If the wire is broken or has no power comming out of it the starter will not turn. So remember, for the start to turn,you need to have a good ground for the stater housing,power to big red starter wire and power on smaller wire going to the starter relay. If the starter and battery are good then it has to be the wiring. What I have seen many times is the ground wire to the frame of the car is the problem, Be it loose or disconnected it would stop the motor from turning over. So check that the smaller of the black wires,coming from the battery,is connected good to the frame of the car and the larger of the black wires has a good connection to the motor. Another wire you would want to check,is the one coming from the key switch and going to the starter relay.If the wire is broken or has no power coming out of it the starter will not turn. So remember, for the starter to turn,you need to have a good ground for the starter housing,power to big red starter wire and power on smaller wire going to the starter relay.
The 2010 SS Camaro has approximately 426 HP @ 5,900 rpm.