Hi, I'd advise checking the handbrake cable where it passes through the guide on the rear semi trailing arm. The brackets on many Vauxhall cars expand, allowing the top hat style guide on the cable to pull through, thus reducing the tension on the cable at the lever end. I've had the same problem on My Calibra, both sides. Usually, you can knock it back through the guide on the suspension arm and tap the guide back into place, restoring correct fitment and operation. Hope this is of assistance. Best Rgds Gr
Release the handbrake, pump the brake pedal a few times to settle the brakes, then apply and release the handbrake a few times. The rear brakes are self adjusting so be careful not to over do it or you will end up locking the your drums. If this does not work, then you need to get the tools out. Jack the rear of the car up, use axle stands for safety. Slacken off the handbrake cable adjuster nut, lift handbrake lever up 4 clicks, tighten handbrake cable adjuster nut until it takes up the slack, check rear drums rotate freely, job done.
This is an absolute doddle. Around the hand brake handle is a piece of plastic trim that pulls off easily. Slide this off the hand brake and underneath you will see a small nut on the drivers side of the handbrake mechanism, I believe it is a 10mm nut. Simply use a socket to make the adjustment. I would recommend doing this on a very flat surface and in gear with the engine off obviously. Slacken off the handbrake to the position where you think it should stop and then tighten the nut. When finished just pop the plastic trim back on. Takes about 2 minutes!
You need to be more specific as to the model of Fiesta. The Mk 6 Fiesta's handbrake adjustment is accomplished by turning the nut on the threaded rod attached to the base of the handbrake lever. First pull off the handbrake lever shroud - just tug the back of it upwards to release the clips. the difficult part is working the shroud over the lever and off. It's a struggle - but it can be done. There may be an awkward star lock-washer on top of the adjusting nut. Use long-nose pliers to get this off and throw it away and replace it with a nylock nut. Slide a long 10mm socket or box spanner over the thread to tighten or slacken the adjusting nut. Earlier models will have different adjustment methods.
present simple - I slacken the rope everyday after work. present continuous - I am slackening the rope now. present perfect - I have slackened the rope. past simple - I slackened the rope before I left yesterday. past continuous - I was slackening the rope when he arrived. past perfect - I had slackened the rope before I left. going to future - I am going to slacken the rope before I leave tomorrow. will future - I will slacken the rope for you.
If it's rear discs it's quite easy. Take the centre console out. Two screws underneath the rear ashtray, and two torx drive screws under the gearstick gaiter which should lift out with a delicate poke with a flathead screwdriver. Slacken the adjuster at the back of the handbrake but it needn't come right off. Jack up the car / chock / remove rear wheels. Pull the cable back and down from the caliper leaver. Punch the cable jacket out of the housing on the hub. This will be very tight and take a good hit, you will need a long punch or bolt to hit. Pull the cables out and then follow them through the various clips and channels until you can pull them away from the handbrake. The o/s one is easy. The n/s one goes behind the exhaust shield which will need to be loosened to gain access. The nylon screws undo and pull out with the clips. Replace the cables making sure they're the right way round and on the correct side of the car. N/S and O/S are slightly different. Tighten the adjuster until the brakes bind and then slacken off slightly.
this is simple on my p-reg 626 1.8gxi. I've worked for Mazda during this period so here goes... 1. slacken the nut down the side of the handbrake lever, removing small plastic trim if required. 2. you need both sides rear in the air for this bit. 3. remove 12mm small bolts located behind rear brake calipers. 1 either side. 4. turn the Allen key heads inside the holes from the bolts you've just removed in the calipers until the wheels lock, then back off quarter turn so the wheels rotate. 5. adjust the nut down the side of the handbrake lever until you get 4 clicks, making sure the wheels rotate when the handbrake is off. 6 if the wheels don't turn equally, then the pads may be siezed into the calipers, or perhaps the sliding pins in the calipers are siezed also. both of these points are worth looking at before adjustments are carried out. remove the handbrake cables and flexi pipe from the calipers, then the calipers should swing out the way then right off. this wont be possible if anything is siezed, a good pointer before you start! The pistons should go back by unscrewing them Allen key heads at the back of the calipers, you shouldn't need to force them back, if you do, they're siezed. Use plenty copper greese when re-assembling, you don;t want to have to go through this every time! The handbrake will need readjusting after a few holds.
Correctly locate the timing pin and then ensure that the camshaft sprocket is locked with the bolt. The camshaft sprocket bolts are then slacken and then you fully turn the camshaft sprocket clockwise in the slotted holes. Slacken the bolts in the injection pump and you fully turn the injection pump sprocket clockwise without resistance. Finally you fit the belt in the crankshaft sprocket.
The term 'Tempo rubato' means that for some time, until it says 'a tempo', you can expressively quicken or slacken a bit. I think it means mostly to slow down , because I thought rubato was to slow just like ritardando and all that. No. It was 'rebato' I think. Never mind it then. It just means you can quicken or slacken for a bit. Just don't be too lazy.
To adjust the auxillary belt tensioner you require a 6mm Allen key. Firstly slacken the 6mm hexagonal bolt on the tensioner pulley which can be accessed from the O/S/F wheel arch, then slacken the 6mm hexagonal bolt on the tensioner mount. This will allow you to adjust the tensioner at the bottom of the mount. By turning anti-clockwise the tensioner will tighten, clockwise loosen.
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