behind dash is a small switch with a small hose hooked to it It may be a vacuum leak on the hose the problem can be the switch gone bad
the inhibitor switch only allows the car to be started in Neutral or Park. No other positions.
The heater blower switch and the electrical plug attached to it may be at fault. Remove the heater control unit from the dash and inspect the plastic electrical plug attached to the blower switch, you may see it has melted. The switch and plug is available from your local auto parts store.
There are usually 2 on a domestic electric heater, one about a foot from the top and the other near the bottom, both attached to the elements.
Yes, but the bulb will only operate at 60 watts and only in one of the switch positions. To shut the bulb off you will have to switch through the other two positions.
One shut off the gas /electric other emergency switch FIRST
Prevents the vehicle from starting in other than Park or Neutral
1. there is an air bubble in the line. 2. the heater core it self is really dirty inside or it is blocked up. feel the hoses going to the heater core. one should be real hot the other just slitely cooler. if this is true then the core is good. the problem may be in the on/off controls. depending on the vechele, a control switch may be in the heater hose or in the heater core. the input hose is hot, the output hose cool. the switch may be stuck so it is blocking the water getting to the core. have some one watch the switch under the hood while some one is in the vechele working the switch on and off.
You'll have to buy a service manual from the parts store. It'll show you each step and give you other good information. I just changed my heater core in my 94 Grand Am Quad 4 and it was a pain. Good Luck.
What heater? heater in your house? heater in your water bowl? There is probably salt and/or other minerals on the heater that he is licking off.
For most GM trucks or SUV's, it's under/behind the glove box. But the most GM motors do not have multiple speed capacity. That is usually a function of the switch. Many of the GM multi speed vehicles use the heater function switch assembly to control motor speed. Unfortunately, many of them are "solid state" and require that the entire heater function switch be replaced when something goes bad.
There are two types of thermostats. One is a line voltage stat. This is in effect a switch and when turned to the off position the voltage is interrupted and the heater will not operate. The other type of stat is low voltage. There will be a relay in the baseboard heater that the thermostat is connected to. With this type if installation to turn the power completely off you will have to turn the breaker off that feeds the circuit.
no, is not a relay, your Volvo has a little plastic screw under the headlights switchyou can use a tiny flat screwdriver and turn the are 3 positions, one of them keep the lights off, and lights will work only turning the switch. the other positions are for the automatic mode.
HeaterYou might need a new thermostat or heater core.Lincoln put a thermal switch in the hoses that run to the heater core in cars of this age. This switch would not allow the blower motor to run until the coolant was warm. This was a "luxury" feature to keep the heater from blowing cold air on your feet. After a few years these switchs would go bad. This could be your problem. I have replaced mine once and I'm looking into a way to bypass it. You can just use the vent function with heat to keep warm until you replace the switch, that's what I'm doing for now. I believe the switch runs about $50 from FoMoCo. You could also have the problems listed in the other answer.my Lincoln town car doesn't have the switch in the heater hose , now where do i look i have good AC but no hot air , where is the vac moter for the heater to outside air switch located ??1994 a breed by its self ?? ill just bet
The heater blend doors have failed. It is likely that the drivers side has failed shut whilst the other side is stuck partly open.
It is a switch that disconnects one wire from one other wire, with a handle that is in one of two positions (i.e., on or off). There are also 3-position switches (not to be confused with "3-way" switches that only have two positions), push-button switches, twist or chain-pull switches, etc, all for a single pole.
Sounds like a problem with the master (drivers) switch.
The electric switch heater uses high voltage, from 480 to 750 volts, through coils that are fixed both on the web of the rails and with "crib heaters" that are laid underneath the movable rods between the ties. These are typically more effective than other types of switch heaters because of the ability to provide the crib heaters, which cannot be used with gas heaters. The heating elements are provided throughout the area of the movable parts of the switch layout.
Yes, a three way lighting switch will do that job. There is no off position if you use this type of switch, it will be either one load or the other on all of the time. To over come this condition you can install a single pole switch ahead of the single pole double throw (three way switch, two way switch in the UK). There is a small toggle switch that has an on - off - on positions but it is not a residential switch.
fan speed control switch is bad. Replace it as long as the other speeds work fine.
my srs light is on and also heater fan hazard switch and al other switches on the centre cancel do not work also is this all linked
No, this is a solid state switch. They cost about $75 to $100. If neither high or low beams work it could be the switch. If one works and the other not look at the headlight relays in the fuse box.
I Recomment You Have A Mechanic Look At This Problem. First It Does`nt Have (2) Heater Cores On It For The Heater The Other Is For The A/C ( Evaperator ) Are You Sure This Is Coolant ? It May Be Condensation From The A/C. This Is Best To Let A Mechanic Tell You. Good Luck
Maybe. It's not clear exactly what you mean by "three way switch". If you're talking about a switch that can connect one input to any of three different outputs (or to none of them), sure: you just hook up one of the outputs and leave the other two open; that way there will be one "on" position and three "off" positions. Or you could wire two of the outputs together; then there would be two "on" positions and two "off" positions. If you are wanting to remove one of the three way switches and replace the other switch with a single pole switch, there is a simple way. Technically, you cannot lose the unwanted junction box as the wires have to remain there and covering them in the wall is usually against code. However, In the switch box where you want to remove the three way switch, disconnect the wires and connect the wire from the common terminal to one of the traveler wires (either of the other two terminals). In the switch box that you are keeping, remove the three way switch. The wire from the common terminal will connect to one of the terminals on the single pole switch. Then (importantly) you have to connect the same traveler wire that you reused in the other box to the second terminal on the switch. The second traveler wire will go unused. There is a way that you can rewire the switches in total, but it would require some substantial know how and possibly the removal of wall board or ceiling in order to do it. Contact a qualified electrician.
can happen when vacuum line is disconnected . look under hood to right of heater hoses. one vacuum line goes to heater valve (gate)on heater hose ,the other should go past this to a small sized metal object the size of a small lemon. if this is disconnected only defrost will work. I HOPE YOUR 91 IS SIMILAR TO MY 93.