Timing chain or gear broke. This times the valves with the pistons.Other Possible ProblemsIf the car has spark, then it is not the timing gear or chain, as this drives the cam, which in turn drives the distributor shaft. If it doesn't have spark, the quickest way to check if it is the timing gear/chain is to pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning when you crank the engine.
For a car to run it has to have compression, spark, air and fuel, in the right amounts and at the right time. If a car isn't even trying to start, one of these is usually missing. Given that you have spark, and fuel pressure at the rail, this would seem to narrow down the options:
1. The spark could be happening at the wrong time, for example if the distributor was not clamped tight enough and it rotated in its bore, or if the timing chain skipped, etc. Use a timing light to verify that spark is occurring at the correct time.
2. Even though there is fuel pressure at the rail, that does not necessarily mean it is getting to the intake. An electrical problem could be causing the fuel injectors not to fire. Unfortunately with TPI it's not easy to pull an injector to see if it is pumping. Given that you have spark, I would try taking off the intake cowl and squirting a small amount of gasoline or starter fluid into the plenum, then turning it over. If it has compression and spark at the right time, this should make it fire up, if only for a few revolutions before it dies again. If this works, you know it's an issue of fuel not reaching the cylinders.
3. If those two possibilities are eliminated, I would begin to suspect that you don't have compression for one reason or another. I broken timing chain would do that, as the valves would not actuate and those that are open would get bent when the pistons came to top. If you have spark though, it's not that, in which case it would likely have to be a blown head gasket(s). One sign that may signify a loss of compression is that, assuming a well charged battery, the motor may turn over faster than normal because the starter does not have to fight against compression. You can check for compression using a compression gauge, which is a pressure gauge that you can insert into a spark plug hole, allowing you to observe the cylinder pressure while cranking the motor with the ignition disconnected.
What are the valveadjustment's on a 1990 iroc camaro with a 5.7 liter 350 motor
1986 305 TPI 190 HP / 285 Lb.Ft
below the exhaust header next to the 1st cylinder on the drivers side of the car
The 86' Z28 comes stock with a 5.0 or 302 their both the same engine. a 1986 chevy camaro does not come with a 302 its a 305 a 302 is a ford motor not a che y motor know your facts i am a camaro fanatic i know these things about them plus i own a 1986 chevy camaro irocz z28 and its all original with the 305 4barrel carb thats how it should be btw mine has the t-tops in it
The 1987 Iroc-Z with the engine code L98 (350 with Tuned Port Injection) was rated at 225hp.
Drivers side of engine just under the headers or exhaust manifold, there will be a single wire attached to it running up to the top of the engine and connecting into a wire bundle. Cant miss it.
If the 8th digit in the vin is an F it is a 305. If the 8th digit is an 8 then it's a 350. It says on the block man. It says on the block man.
It is the samething. same distributor.
I have a 1990 IROCZ. When the car hit the 100,000 mile mark about a year ago, I had the same problem. The car might die while cruising or it might die at a red light. This went on intermittently for about 6 weeks. During this time, I ran fuel induction & injection chemicals through the fuel rails. I changed out the fuel filters. No change. So, I changed out the fuel pump and it fixed the problem. Good luck :-) By the way, you'll have a whole lot less trouble doing this on your truck. This is a common problem with that year, Need to replace the ingnition Module.It is in the distributor. And the above answer is a good answer.Need to hook fuel pressure gauge up and drive it and watch gauge till it dies again. When it dies if it's got 9 to 13 LBS. of pressure then it's not the pump.REPLACE THE MODULE
2nd before ReverseTry to put the tranny in 2nd before you go into reverse. I know it isn't what you wanted to hear but it might stop the grinding. I have a 1990 IROCZ and it has been doing that since I bought it, 70,000 miles ago. I changed the clutch out at about the 100,000 mile mark and it still does it. I have asked mechanic's about this in the past and nobody can really give me an answer. I have heard a few people mention the word "synchronizers" but never with any real certainty. Good luck :-)AnswerThe knock sound could be coming from the u-joints. You should have two located in front and behind the driveshaft. A good way of check this it to jack the car up on both sides and support the car properly with jack stands. Climb under the car with car in drive. Then grab the driveshaft which is the shaft coming from the transmission to the rear differential. Turn it left and right if your fell it move replace the u-joint. Other symptoms is a vibration when driving and noise coming from under the car.