Just guessing here, but it sounds like you need a PATS key to start your car. (passive anti-theft system). I don't know if your particular vehicle requires one, look in the owner's manual. If you have the original Mercury key, it would have a plastic head containing a computer chip (transponder). Contact your local Ford, Mercury, Lincoln dealer and ask for the Parts Dept., or a help desk. Have your make, model and VIN number handy. If your car needs a pats key, dealer prices can be high, try getting one on ebay. You'll still need to go to a dealer or a specialized locksmith shop and have it programmed. If you find out that your car doesn't require a pats key, then I'd check to see if the ignition key tumbler needs replaced.
Mounted to the starter.
Your neutral safety switch-try putting car in neutral and trying it
Could beAlso check the starter solenoid and loose or corroded battery cablesand starter
the answer is the neutral saifty switch relays the starting signal to starter the neutral safety switch relays the starting signal to starter from ignition switch they look the same but plug up different make sure you have right neutral switch
They are dark purple. It goes from the ignition switch to the neutral safety switch to the starter.
The neutral start ( or neutral safety ) switch on an automatic transmission allows the vehicle to start only in park or neutral , and also acts as the backup light switch
Generally the problem is either a defective neutral safety switch or a bad ignition switch (not ignition key lock).
I know about the starter and ignition, but I click the ignition and then it clicks, then when I press and hold the starter it starts then immediatly stalls, I have tried it in neutral, in gear, with clutch, without clutch, with clutch and throttle.
Seized Engine? Weak or dead battery? Loose or corroded battery cables? Bad starter solenoid? Bad starter? Bad neutral safety switch? Bad ignition switch?
Starter, battery, battery connections, neutral switch,
Bad neutral or clutch safety switch? Bad starter? bad starter solenoid?
Possibly the neutral switch is at fault.
might be starter relay, or the crank circuitry from the switch or to the starter from the relay. I would trace back from the starter to the starter relay back through the neutral safety switch to the ignition switch.
Engine Seized? Dead Battery? Loose or corroded battery cables Bad starter? Bad starter solenoid? Bad neutral or clutch safety switch? Bad ignition switch?
Seized engine? Weak battery? Corroded or loose battery cables? Bad starter or starter solenoid? Bad neutral or clutch safety switch? Bad ignition switch?
Could be,low battery, loose or dirty battery connections, starter is bad, starter solenoid is bad, neutral safety switch bad or out of adjustment, starter relay is bad,
Fuse Link @ starter--- Ignition Switch------- Netural Saftey Switch- Bad ignition switch, or bad neutral safety switch.
Possibly a neutral lockout switch, possibly a bad connection, possibly an ignition switch.
If the vehicle is in gear, the starter will be attempting to move the entire vehicle, as well as get the engine turning over.
If ignition problems still persist after replacing the neutral safety switch on a 1995 Chevy S10 check the starter. A broken starter will result in a car which will not be able to turn over the engine.
you can disconnect the starter relay and run a wire from the starter wire in the connector to the power wire on it p.s. it is easyer to take a curcit tester and probe the connectors with someone truning the ignition switch to fine the starter the starter wire is brown and im not sure about the power lead from the ignition switch
ignition switch...baterry cables...starter...ALARM????
The ignition starter has nothing to do with performance. It just starts the engine.
If you can hear your starter motor turning but not the engine you have some teeth missing on the ring gear. If you can hear nothing, not even the starter motor solenoid clicking into place, you have a connection problem between ignition switch and starter motor.