Chances are either the ground connection is bad, or you have the wrong type of tubes installed in it.
Shop light fixtures generally need tubes made specifically for them; a normal rapid start tube won't reliably start in it, especially when humidity is high.
Humidity being the key variable you mentioned, it can produce the intermittent operation you refer to. Check all wires in the wire nut splices carefully for for signs of oxidation. All wires and connections should have a shiny bright surface. Clean or cut back wire to find good clean strands and reconnect. Check contacts on ballasts and pins on the tubes too. Don't neglect the sockets, as they are often not tinned, and tend to go first. A little CRC 2-12 or similar electrical spray on a rag to wet the contacts will prevent future oxidation- for a while at least. If you have high humidity routinely, put a bit of silicone into the wire nuts to keep moisture out in the future.
Apart from no, your question has no simple answer. Fluorescent lamps need a few kV to start them and have a 90V drop when running. All of that is provided by the "gear" needed to run a fluorescent lamp. In a compact fluorescent (CFL), the gear is inside the cap.
Since I know these days Havells Sylvania are manufacturing eco friendly lights, Havells lights doesn't produce heat anymore while glowing, so I think this is one of the favourable part for your requirment and yeah you Fluorescent light are safe enough for inside use.
Temperature at the start of the MEN'S race was 80° Fahrenheit (26° celsius) with 40% humidity Temperature at the start of the WOMEN'S race was 86° with 50% humidity
Short answer is no. Old fluorescent fixtures use to have ballasts that required considerable energy to start and warm up, if the light was switched on and off frequently then it would have been better just to leave it on, however this limitation has been solved since the early 1980's. You are doing yourself no favors by leaving a modern florescent light on
it would start raining heavily
It provides a boost in voltage required to start the fluorescent process.
Crank but not start and run, possible. Not to crank, start or run, no. No lights or horn, no.
Check the distributor cap
you drain your battery when you leave your lights on
Preheat, Instant start (also known as slimline) and rapid start. Also, rapid start is best for dimming!!
there is a short in the relay for the head lights
A; fluorescent lamps needs 500 v to start once started the voltage drops to ~90 v the starter perform the kicking to get to 500 volts without it it will not start so taking it out after it started that is when it is not longer needed
Light from the sun or artificial lights can start photosynthesis.
When humidity goes down, you want to avoid putting on Fires. The lower the humidity, the larger the chance of a forest fire starting! Until the humidity goes back up, you shouldn't start a fire anywhere. Yes, fire danger is a type of weather as well.
Instant start fluorescent fixtures that use independent starters are becoming a thing of the past. These types of fixtures can not be started with out the device. The next generation of fixtures used rapid start ballasts that did not need a starter as it was incorporated into the ballast. Now new fixtures use electronic ballasts to operate the fixtures.
Fluorescent lights are quite different from regular incandescents. Incandescents have a filament the glows white hot, producing light. Fluorescents, on the other hand, are more like neon lights: electricity is used to excite a gas to produce light. Unlike neon lights, the light produced by the gas is ultraviolet. The ultraviolet radiation strikes a white "phosphor" (though not necessarily made with the element phosphorus) coating on the inside of the tube, which then emits the visible light we see.Be careful handling any broken fluorescent tubes: the gas used to produce the ultraviolet contains mercury, which is a neurotoxin, and the phosphor is a powder that is easily inhaled. None are good for your health!For more detail on the circuitry, why some have starters/start buttons, etc. see the information in the Related Links shown below.
The choke is used to give a surge of current during start up. This choke coupled with a relay (or sort of switch) will start to magnetize to its max capacity, once attained maximum level, relay trips and the choke start to discharge thus providing initial surge of current need to light on the fluorescent tube.
No, normal DS doesn't start with the lights on. In the DS Lite it start on with the lights and you can change the light higher or lower
If the lights are not working after using the remote start on a 2003 F-250, then something is wrong with the way it was wired when the remote start was installed. The remote start has wires to hook up to the lights so that a person knows the vehicle started. Perhaps this step was skipped in installation.
Start with the headlamp switch.
Start small. Check your fuses.
Start the van and see if the lights turn on automatically.
You can decorate your home with Christmas lights as early as you want to. It is typically acceptable to start decorating with Christmas lights after Thanksgiving.
They can, but you need to have a motion sensor/system made for them. They require a ballast to get them to start (in most cases) and don't turn on instantly, making them a poor choice for most security applications. A motion sensor is just a switch so you should have no trouble with fluorescent lights. Older tubes sometimes take longer to fire, try relamping. If the fixture is outside and cold this has a major factor on operation. For outside fluorescent fixtures in real cold climate you need a zero degree ballast. The new electronic ballast are the best as they operate in all kind of temperatures.
In colder climates a special ballast and lamps have to be used. These are known as cold start ballasts. The cost is much greater using fluorescent fixtures than HID fixtures and the light output is much less.