Starters are made specifically for certain engine and transmission combinations. The snout of the starter must be the correct length for the worm gear to engage the ring gear. If you have the wrong starter, the worm gear will not engage properly. If the ring gear is damaged, the starter might be operating properly, but have no teeth to engage. If the solenoid is not working, the starter motor will spin, but the worm gear will not be pushed forward to engage the ring gear. Remove the starter, and visually check the ring gear for missing teeth. If the ring gear appears to be intact, take the starter back to the place where it was purchased and have it tested. If the starter tests good, check the solenoid wiring on the vehicle to insure that the solenoid is being energized. If all of these steps fail to identify the problem, return the starter and get a different starter out of stock and compare them. You might have a mislabeled starter.
<S>ervice <E>ngine <L>ight
ship+steame ngine=steam ship
It should be on the driver Sid eof the ngine compartment towards the front about a foot down.
Look into the ngine compartment from under the front bumper, to the right of the license plate. It's kind of up in there but can easily be reached.
it is in the cver right in front of the tool compartment where the shift rod hooks up to ngine it is right in front of it has two screws holding it in and has one wire going to it
It probably knacker your engine. It will cause the pistons to fly loose and out of time. This will cause the ngine to be rebult, might gauge out your sleeves and crack your engine head. Basics! Lav
engine failsafe mode means there is a problem somewhere in engine. the ngine will get you a short distance to safely get off the road,before it shuts down take it to a shop to find out what the problem is
The -E-ngine -C-ontrol -M-odule, or ECM recorded the vehicle mileage along with the odometer. The EMC mileage can be read by a scan tool at most dealerships or repair shops with the proper equipment. It is possible for the two mileages to differ slightly, but a large variance may indicate a faulty odometer, or possibly odometer tampering.
vacuum pump in a diesel, is a pump installed to create vacuum to assist in opreation of brakes in pickups tha have diesel engines, the brakes are same as any other pickup and use vacuum created by the ngine to operate. a diesel engine does not create vacuum, as a gasoline engine does. that is why there is a vacuum pump added to a small diesel engine on f250 the pump is belt driven, is on the driver side of engine, under the a/c compressor.
first chock the wheels of vehicle disconect batteries remove startermotor next remove drive shaft from differential f250 probably has 2 driveshafts so you need to remove centre carrier bearing as well.next put jack for support under gear box, a floor jack is best as it has wheels and can be used to slide gearbox back remove ispection plate from bottom of bell housing. remove bolts from rear gearbox mount remove bolts that hold bellhousing to engine block disconnect clutch there are 2 different clutch slave cylanders one is inside the bell housing, or one is outside bell housing don't know which one you have slide gear box back from engine allowinf enuff room to get at clutch use a peice of broom stick or an old gear box shaft and slide thru centre of clutch as far as it will go this will pevent clutch falling on you remove bolts that hold pressure plate to flywheel remove clutch and pressure plate watch the throw out bearing on the gearbox shaft doesnt fall on ya head when ya slide gear box back when replacing clutch it is a good idea to also replace the spiggot bearing while you have it pulled apart this is the bronze bush inside the flywheel centre that the end of the gear box shaft sits in when assembled also should replace throw out bearing and i think most clutch kits include this bearing so now u put new clutch plate and pressure plate against each other, making sure the clutch plate is facing the correct way should have TOWARDS FRONT,or TOWARDS FLYWHEEL written on the side that goes against flywheel use the same shaft of broom stick to support new parts line up a bolt hole and insert bolt finger tight then align all other bolt holes and insert all bolts that hold clutch to flywheelthese bolts need to be tightened to correct torque a little at a time so that the clutch is installed flat and with equal torque all way around also while doing this make sure clutch is aligned correctly with spiggot bearing in flywheel if you have old gear box shaft this will align the clutch,if not you can rent an alignment tool from any tool rental place.some clutch kits have a plastic dummy shaft for this when clutch is tightened the dummy shaft will be tight you may have to knock the saft out with a hammer next slide new throw out bearing onto gearbox shaft and make sure that it is engaged in the clutch fork that sticks out the side of the bell housing next is to slide the gear box back against the ngine block and reinstall the bolts if you did not disconnect the clutch cylander fluid line you will not have to bleed the clutch the rest of installation is pretty much just the reverse of pulling it apart hope this helps