My first guess would be, the timing belt broke! When you turn the key to start, the engine turns faster than normal because the valves are not opening and closing as they should. which causes a low compression situation. you.
It could also be the computer, or ECM, or whatever they call it. Its the flat black box on the firewall above and behind the pedals.I've read it is prone to break when older. When you first turn on the ignition but don't try to turn engine over, you should hear a relay click about two seconds later. That means the fuel pump has built pressure in the line and then cut off. The computer failure can disable the fuel pump or fuel injection system ... you won't hear that second click.
If you have a slow crank or no crank condition check the engine ground strap, and any wires connected to the starter. They could be corroded or loose, so check both ends.
I have a 98 tracker. My engine started making a clicking sound. My dad has worked on alot of vehicals in his lifetime. He thought it was the timining belt breaking cause the sound was coming from there. I ordered the belt in, and he took the vehical apart to replace, just to find out that the belt was okay. But I got him to replace it. I phoned around including chev and they informed me to take it in and have it checked. I live 4 hours away to the nearest place I can have it checked. I wind up taking a day off so I can take it in, I filled it up with gas and I left. On the way over there my vehical kept on losing power and dipping to 50km/h and so fourth, the engine sounded okay but it kept on doing that. A normal ride that took 4 hours took 5.5 hours with a few minutes stop in between. when it came to going up a hill, it lost power, going up at 20km/h. Well I finally made it there. The service person told me that there was a few possibilities why this would happen and I told them to do whatever they have to do to make it run properly again, they even though it might have been the catalylic converter and they were ready to make a bypass by putting in a straight pipe to the muffler, they assured me it wouldn't damage the vehical. But anyway an hour and half later, they phoned me back and told me my vehical was ready. I came to the garage and they told me that all the problem I was having turned out to be the timing and so I paid for their service and went my way. The vehical was running ok. On the way back, my vehical seemed to have more power than usual and my rpms were normal, I thought that was probably what I was having a problem with. Well after 2.5 hours of driving home, my engined just went dead. I cranked it and it cranked okay. It was minus 30 degrees celcius, I was prepared but I was there for 3 hours and luckily I was prepared by grabbing winter clothing. Well i phoned home and my dad picked me up. I got it towed to the nearest town and I went home. Three days later, the temperature was back up to plus 3 degrees and I thought my vehical had froze because it was too cold. But we towed it back to my town. I checked everything, including the gas filter and pump and distributer cab to see if there were sparks. Everything checked out. My dad removed the spark plug and put a metal thing inside to see if my valves were working and sure enough it wasn't moving. He took my front end of the engine apart cause he thought the belt was broken, it wasn't. He checked the crankshaft and here a tiny little metal pin like thing he calls a key was worn out and no longer moving the engine. He got another of this pin thingy and he replaced it along with a cement mixing compound. He put everything back together and I never had a problem. Overall, check to see if the engine is cranking properly, if not check the timing belt and if it is okay, check that pin thingy, it is located on the crankshaft pully thingy.. I know it was a long story, but I just thought I'd let you know what I went through.
The black box on the firewall is not the ECU it is the RWAL rear wheel anti lock controller. The ECU is located under the left side of the dash by the driver's left knee above the main fuse block. If you remove the speaker you can see the mounting bolts.
Assuming that you are getting fuel I doubt it is the ECU, but instead either a broken timing belt or a sheared off key-way on the crankshaft sprocket, as this is a common falure point. Check out Suzuki Forums . com
Crank on tdc#1. point rotor in distributor at the line on the pick up plate.Crank on tdc#1. point rotor in distributor at the line on the pick up plate.
It only has a pick up plate in the distributor. Under the cap and rotor.
take distributor cap off and see if rotor button is turning when crank over
Standard is that it is pointing at the number one position on the distributor cap.
A 1989 Dakota uses the distributor pick up plate for the crank signal. It is the plastic plate under the rotor inside the distributor cap.
Take the distributor cap off an crank the engine or turn the engine by hand clockwise and note the direction of the distributor rotor.
Distributor and rotor.Distributor and rotor.
Initial timing is set by aligning the crank with the 0 mark and aligning the distributor rotor with the line on the pick up plate. The distributor is then synced with a scan tool. It is set to exactly 0 degrees to match the crank sensor. This can no be done with a timing light.Initial timing is set by aligning the crank with the 0 mark and aligning the distributor rotor with the line on the pick up plate. The distributor is then synced with a scan tool. It is set to exactly 0 degrees to match the crank sensor. This can no be done with a timing light.
It is located inside the distributor under the rotor,but replacements are almost impossible to find. You will most likely have to buy the whole distributor.
Wires, pcm, distributor, crank sensor, timing belt,
bad spark plug wires, low battery, broken rotor in the distributor
It's the distributor rotor that you are looking for & it's under the distributor cap. Remove the distributor cap and there you will find the rotor.