I have been having this same probl;em on my 96 neon sport dohc. we had it tested, and the code was for the fuel pump or relay. We changed both and had the same outcome. finally we started checking all the wires from the pump to the fuse. nothing kept searching wires and found the wires running down to the lower o2 sensor had gotten caught on the half shaft (axel) and ripped the plug out. Wam bam problem solved!AnswerI used to have this problem with my 97 neon DOHC it would blow the fuel pump fuse like every day and sometimes one after another. I first thought well ok its blowing the fuel pump fuse so i decited to replace the fuel pump and well the problem continued. After doing some research and reading the HAYNES book for neons 95-99 which you could purchase at your local autozone for like 15 bucks i realized there was a possibility that it could be the EGR valve so i went for it. I think I paid like $70 for it and installed it my self very easy job and BINGO problem solved. this was nearly two years ago and havent had a problem scince, in fact it even improved my gas mileage. AnswerFule pump is locked up or you have a short in the wiring. AnswerI have a 1996 Dodge Neon that also blows the fuel pump fuse. I removed the fuel pump relay (elliminating the fuel pump) and the fuse still blows. I have read that the oxygen sensor and part of the ignition system is also on this fuse(no spark when fuse is blown). After installing 7 fuses (all blew) and towing my car home now the 8th fuse doesn't blow. I have been unable to find the original cause. I am uneasy about driving it to work as I have a long commute.
Actually, this is on the right track. The oxygen sensor and part of the ignition system is on the same fuse. The leads going to the oxygen sensors are subject to rubbing against the frame (and/or other stuff underneath). I found a spot where the insulation to one of the sensors had rubbed through. I taped it up with electrician's tape temporarily un til I was able to get some of the liquid "brush on electricians tape" to reseal it. Took care of the problem.AnswerI had (and still have) the same problem on my 98 Dodge Neon. At first I changed the fuse- it immediately blew again. I was able to drive the mile to get home after changing the fuse about 7 times. I was told that it was the fuel pump relay, so I substituted it with a known good relay(the horn relay) and it still blew the fuse within a couple minutes. Then I was told it might be the fuel pump (wasn't as hard to change as I thought) but after changing that, too, it still blew the fuse. So I just kept changing the fuse to get around. I definitely found the cause of my problem. It was doing this every day, until I drove the Neon without my normal set of keys. Sometimes it happened on acceleration, sometimes stopped, sometimes after a minute, sometimes after 2 weeks. I can now control it. It is (SURPRISE!)a problem with the ignition switch(where you put the key in)! You see, I have the bad habit of having a bunch of keys and keychains on my car key. It seems the weight of it causes some kind of misalignment in the switch. I have not blown that fuse since(about 2 months now)- I just make sure that I CAREFULLY put the key in straight, and turn it gently. If I push the key in and turn in a hurry, that fuse will blow, maybe in a minute, maybe later- but definitely soon. I tested this over and over. I keep a box of fuses in the car at all times, just in case. Unless you have to, keep your car key separate when it's in the switch to avoid the problem! Answer 95 dodge neon fuel pump fuse blowIts the wires going to the downstream o2 sensor they go bad near the alternator wire that feeds the battery.
I'm currently experiencing the same problem with my 95 neon sohc. I've checked all wires for splits and corrosion with repairs or replacements. it still wont start any more help for this problem? it gets fuel so fuel pump is believed to be good, don't know about spark because I've since drained battery. Help??
I own a 98 DOHC Neon, and have recently had the same problem. I'll be quick... the problem is initially caused by an oil leak that spills over the wires going downstream to the O2 censor. The oil humidifies the wire's insulation then the heat of the engine causes it to crack, leaving bare wire exposed! Once the bare wire touches the alternator or frame, it blows the fuse. I would recommend to get it taken care of imediately because it is not going to stop.
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