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Why would the clutch in a 1995 Beretta be fine one day and the next day the pedal will go to the floor?

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2005-01-10 23:37:56
2005-01-10 23:37:56

There is probably air built up in the line, or the clutch is not compressing. Mine's going to do that I'm afraid soon, too. Top the fluid off. Under the hood on the firewall to the drivers left of the brake reservoir is smaller clutch reservoir. Clean the cap, take it off, and add BRAKE FLUID (Dot 3, of course) till it's full. Push that little rubber bellows in the cap up into the cap, then replace the cap. This may get you going again. For now, but you (and I) have a leak. It is either leaking from the master cylinder (on the firewall) or the slave cylinder (on, near, or in the transmission), or the line in between. In my case the slave cylinder is in the transmission, it costs $89. So what do you think? Go ahead and replace the clutch while I'm in there? Clutch disk is what $20? Of course you may be lucky and have that slave cylinder outside of the transmission.

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You should not attempt to replace the clutch yourself unless you have considerable mechanical skills. In this case, the problem is most likely that the spring holding the clutch pedal in place is broken.

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if its hydraulic there could be air in your line. bleed your clutch and refill.

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A major indicator would be when you push the clutch in, you can't shift your transmission. Another one would be when you push the clutch pedal, it just goes straight to the floor with no resistance, or it doesn't push in at all.

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The clutch IS supposed to go to the floor. Do you mean why doesn't it release the transmission from the engine. It probably needs to have air bled from the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.

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It sounds like the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder has gone bad.These are not that expensive to replace.

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Professionally, it will cost around $2,000 to replace a broken shifter and clutch in a 96' Chevy Beretta. Just the replacement clutch and shifter will end up costing you around $800.00.

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I had this problem. For me the pressure plate was sticking and broke the linkage. Take it to the dealer for replacement.

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Clutch slave cylinder is leaking fluid or the connector rod or cable from the clutch pedal is disconnected or broken. Depends on the make and model of the vehicle to know the exact setup of your clutch.

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i think the clutch pedal should be the same as a 94 escort where it would be around 2.5 inches wide and 2 inches tall

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I had same problem so I changed clutch, no diference. found the plate the clutch pedal conects to had pulled away from bulkhead. rewelded to bulkhead and clutch was fine.

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dude! sounds like air brake sys.(system needs to be bled get air out of sys.)As for gettin stuck , check linkage,brake booster and master cyl.

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Just like you would brakes, two people one pumping the pedal and one loosening and tightening the bleeder screw. You have to be absolutely sure you close that bleeded before the pedal is allowed to come up off the floor.

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If a truck has a clutch brake it would only be used when coming to a complete stop. By pushing the clutch peddle completely to the floor you would apply the clutch brake. This stops the clutch disc from spinning making it easier to shift into 1st or reverse gear. Normal shifting while driving you would not need to or want to push the clutch peddle to the floor to activate the clutch brake.

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IT HAS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE WITH OLDER VEHICLES THAT WHEN THE CLUTCH PEDAL "CREEKS" THERE ARE SOME WEAR POINTS WHICH ARE NOT GETTING LUBRICATED

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you could be low on clutch fluid, air in the lines if a small leak in the lines or your clutch is going bad

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The clutch has a safety switch that prevents the engine from starting unless the clutch is depressed. If you kicked the switch or a wire loose, this would caause a no start. Look for loose wires or componants near the clutch pedal and reattach as needed.

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hydraulics work because fluids are considered a non-compressible material. therefore when you put your foot down on the clutch pedal it pushes the hydraulic fluid pressure through the line to disengage the clutch. if there is air in the line the air bubble will compress (gases ARE compressible) and you will feel a "spongy pedal" and you will have to "pump" the clutch pedal to move that air bubble down the hydraulic line before you get a "good" clutch

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You may have some bare wires that are shorting out on the clutch pedal. Get under the dash and check it out.

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If it is a manual transmission it would not have a neutral safety switch - it may have a clutch safety switch usually located at the upper end of the clutch pedal under the dash area If it is a manual transmission it would not have a neutral safety switch - it may have a clutch safety switch usually located at the upper end of the clutch pedal under the dash area

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I have a 95 Honda Civic with that exact problem. In fact the clutch was just replaced with all new parts about two months ago. Is it unsafe to drive? Everything else seems to work just fine. Except there is absolutely no resistance from the pedal until you get down to about 3/4 of the way down you usually would.


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