I had this problem. For me the pressure plate was sticking and broke the linkage. Take it to the dealer for replacement.
You should not attempt to replace the clutch yourself unless you have considerable mechanical skills. In this case, the problem is most likely that the spring holding the clutch pedal in place is broken.
if its hydraulic there could be air in your line. bleed your clutch and refill.
A major indicator would be when you push the clutch in, you can't shift your transmission. Another one would be when you push the clutch pedal, it just goes straight to the floor with no resistance, or it doesn't push in at all.
The clutch IS supposed to go to the floor. Do you mean why doesn't it release the transmission from the engine. It probably needs to have air bled from the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.
I had same problem so I changed clutch, no diference. found the plate the clutch pedal conects to had pulled away from bulkhead. rewelded to bulkhead and clutch was fine.
It sounds like the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder has gone bad.These are not that expensive to replace.
obviously you have a clutch line or slave cylinder leak.
Clutch slave cylinder is leaking fluid or the connector rod or cable from the clutch pedal is disconnected or broken. Depends on the make and model of the vehicle to know the exact setup of your clutch.
i think the clutch pedal should be the same as a 94 escort where it would be around 2.5 inches wide and 2 inches tall
The clutch Throw Out Bearing is going bad.
That would be a standard transmission.
Just like you would brakes, two people one pumping the pedal and one loosening and tightening the bleeder screw. You have to be absolutely sure you close that bleeded before the pedal is allowed to come up off the floor.
Something in the system is leaking.
If a truck has a clutch brake it would only be used when coming to a complete stop. By pushing the clutch peddle completely to the floor you would apply the clutch brake. This stops the clutch disc from spinning making it easier to shift into 1st or reverse gear. Normal shifting while driving you would not need to or want to push the clutch peddle to the floor to activate the clutch brake.
IT HAS BEEN MY EXPERIENCE WITH OLDER VEHICLES THAT WHEN THE CLUTCH PEDAL "CREEKS" THERE ARE SOME WEAR POINTS WHICH ARE NOT GETTING LUBRICATED
you could be low on clutch fluid, air in the lines if a small leak in the lines or your clutch is going bad
Pre 1997/9 models of Ford Vehicles were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure. There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on eBay etc.2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.Disconnect SPRING ON THE FOOT-PEDAL to release ratchet mechanism.Clamp cable slack (engine end).
Pre 1997/9 models of Ford Vehicles were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure. There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on eBay etc.2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.Disconnect SPRING ON THE FOOT-PEDAL to release ratchet mechanism.Clamp cable slack (engine end).
This may be due to a faulty clutch. If the vehicle has over 70K on the clutch it is reccomended that it be replaced. If the clutch "slips" or takes a min before it finally engages then i would reccomed replacing the clutch. Make sure to change the Release Bearing and the pilot bearing as well this may also contribute to the problem.
The clutch start switch is bad.you will find it at the top of the clutch pedal
you could've broke the clutch cable
The clutch has a safety switch that prevents the engine from starting unless the clutch is depressed. If you kicked the switch or a wire loose, this would caause a no start. Look for loose wires or componants near the clutch pedal and reattach as needed.
It would be easier to buy a different car. You would need to change the trans, install a wiring harness for a manual, a computer for a manual, cut an extra hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder, mount the clutch pedal ( would have to make new brackets ), change the center console to a manual shifter, route the manuals shift cables.......
hydraulics work because fluids are considered a non-compressible material. therefore when you put your foot down on the clutch pedal it pushes the hydraulic fluid pressure through the line to disengage the clutch. if there is air in the line the air bubble will compress (gases ARE compressible) and you will feel a "spongy pedal" and you will have to "pump" the clutch pedal to move that air bubble down the hydraulic line before you get a "good" clutch
You may have some bare wires that are shorting out on the clutch pedal. Get under the dash and check it out.