depends on what kind of car it is. On most supercharged, turbocharged,and cars with high compression ratios the knock sensor code would come up because you didnt put high octane fuel in the car. the lower the octane rating of the fuel, the more unstable the fuel is under pressure, which means the fuel would ignite before the spark ignites it, causing the timing to be off and the Check Engine lite to come on
ANSWER from smokingallowed....
I just came from there. I can tell you I kept getting a P0325 code, which is Knock sensor circuit 1 fault. I have another knock sensor sitting around,so I swap them out. The code kept coming back. I KNOW they work because to test them,get your meter, clip the red(+) meter wire to the the plug-in side of the sensor and the black(-) meter wire to the caseing of the sensor if its the one wire type. If its 2 wire type connect the two meter wires to the two sensor prongs on its plug on the sensor. Then set the meter to the lowest AC setting.(Not DC) Knock sensors produce AC voltage. Then bang on the side of the sensor and watch the voltage spike..If it don't change the sensor is bad. But anyway, It's still doing the same even with different knock sensors. I'm starting to think bad gas,but there was no knock. So I removed the sensor again took a wire brush to the threads of the sensor AND the thread of the block where itscrews in. I learned that don't overtighten it.It should be torqued to Appx. 14 ft. lbs. I set mine at 10lbs. But first I wrapped it in a towel so it wont bang on anything and then drove the car with it being unscrewed from the block. The code STILL came back. So I double check the threads for cleanliness. Screwed the oridgenal sensor back into the block. I tested the plug that comes from the car for voltage.It was somthing low like 4 or 5 VDC in which it is supost to be. Then pluged it back in and THAT was the problem.NO MORE KNOCK SENSOR CODE P0325. In short words,MAKE SURE that the sensor has a good clean connection where it screws into the block...because that is the ground for the sensor and if its not makeing good contact with the block you will have a P0325 (Knock Sensor Circuit 1 Fault (or short) I also replaced the knock sensor plug on the 97 z24..... So remove the sensor,test it as outlined above,clean the sensor threads, and the threads on the block, twist the wire that you will be plugging into the sensor a few times So you can be sure the plug is pluged in very good. I have read that these are screwed into the water jacket,but the past 8 knock sensor I have removed from blown 2.4L DOHC engines NONE were screwed in the water jacket.
Dont get the above code mixed-up with the P0326 CODE. Which is Knock Sensor Circuit Performance. That will be the sensor is failing or has already failed, or the 4 or 5 volts is not reaching the knock sensor.
Where would the knock sensor be located on a 2004 mazda 6?
I have a 240 and with the knock sensor unplugged it will still start so I would have to say no.
If just the knock sensor need to be replaced. I would say no more than $150.00
Knock sensor codes on this vehicle are meaningless, the knock sensor does nothing unless the engine knocks. If you have this code there is more than likely a problem in one of the other emission-related devices, which often triggers this code first. My advice is to ignore it until another code pops up giving you more information about where to look. Do not replace the knock sensor, it will be expensive and will not stop the code from reappearing. Loading... >>
No. It only senses engine vibration/knock.
A knock sensor is located in a specific area on the block or cylinder head in order to sense spark knock occuring and send a signal to the ECM to retard the timing. Relocating the knock sensor would defeat its purpose.
If a knock sensor was bad, the check engine light would be illuminated and the code(s) set would indicate so.
No it will not.
A bad knock sensor would illuminate the check engine light and allow the engine to ping (spark knock). The engine doesn't shift, the transmission shifts.
just curios as to where a knock sensor would b located on a 95 vw golf gti 2.0
The function of the knock sensor ob a sensor on a 1991 4.3 s10 is to provide the computer the position of the crank shaft to give it the right information to get correct timing. That would be the crank position sensor. The knock sensor monitors the engine for spark knock (ping) so the ECM (Engine Control Module) can retard the timing to eliminate it.
If your car would run lean the sensor would not be able to determine that and their could be engine damage.
There are no symptoms since the knock sensor doesn't do anything unless the engine is detonating, in which case it would do nothing and you would hear it. The knock sensor code is often tripped when there is a fault in something else since it's part of the same circuit. This is considered a "ghost" error code.
If the knock sensor failed the CEL (Check Engine Light) would be illuminated and the engine may "ping" or "spark knock" under load. Serious "spark knock" can damage the engine if allowed to continue.
It would help to know the year, But I would say that it is the knock sensor wire and it should be pluged into the knock sensor that is screewed into the side of the engine block just in front of the starter.
The circuit 1 knock sensor would be located on the lower right side of the engine block (passenger side). You will need to drain the coolant from the radiator and be prepared for the passenger side of the block to drain coolant when the knock sensor is removed. After you disconnect the electrical connection to the knock sensor, the knock sensor simply unthreads from the block counterclockwise. Apply a thread sealant to the threads of the new sensor and install, no need to over tighten, this is a tapered pipe thread.
The knock sensor is exactly what it says. It senses any knock or ticking in the engine and retards the timing. The knock sensor is not the problem, the knocking is. Go to a repair shop and have it diagnosed.
What year, and application? NEW ANSWER: That would be the knock sensor,
Knock sensors can be a pain to get to (located under the intake manifold) combined with being fairly cheap, it would be better just to put a new one on by the time you get to it. If you have a code indicating the knock sensor is bad just replace it and save yourself a headache.
I have a 1990 Pontiac Safari wagon that would not start,after much testing we found one bad fuel injector replaced it and car started but ran terrible, did more testing and found bad ignition module, replaced module runs better but now have code #43 knock sensor and engine is running in default mode switched ECM no help must be knock sensor don't think knock sensor would keep car from starting but the other things mentioned here would. Hope this helps. This wagon has 3.1 engine. Havent changed knock sensor yet.
You would probably hear a spark knock or pinging under acceleration or load. Check engine light may come on also.
Knock sensor codes on this vehicle are meaningless, the knock sensor does nothing unless the engine knocks. If you have this code there is more than likely a problem in one of the other emission-related devices, which often triggers this code first. My advice is to ignore it until another code pops up giving you more information about where to look. Do not replace the knock sensor, it will be expensive and will not stop the code from reappearing.
i been working on cars 20 years i haven't seen a knock sensor make a car miss it;s job is to ajust timing i have seen it set off service lights why would you think it's a knock sensor if i knew more infoe i might be able to help you
crank/cam sensor max airflow sensor