this is a farely common problem with aftermarket relays. do not see it much with the Ford relays. what happens is that when you turn the key to the start position the relay is activated. now these things have alot of current going through them. what happens is when the contact plates inside contact each other they cause a pretty large arc. over time the plates will eventually stick together due to the extreme heat that runs through that relay. my reccomendation is to fork over the cash for a good ford relay and that should take care of your problem.
Just like anything else, the starter solenoid will eventually wear out. They can short, short to ground and stick.
It sounds like the solenoid is stuck. does the car have an aftermarket remote starter? it could be malfunctioning. ive never seen a solenoid stick on one of these.
more than likely its the starter solenoid..not kicking out starter gear fast enough.
Replace the starter power solenoid install on the passenger side fender right behind the battery. Usually it cracks and moisture causes it to stick.
Its the solenoid (relay) that you are jumping. If i understand you correctly, it cranks when you cross the relay. Just ask for starter solenoid, and stick in on like the old one.
A 1991 Honda Civic DX 1.5 liter engine starter might stick because the starter is damaged. The flywheel might be missing teeth which could cause the starter to stick.
Stick the starter in the cutlass supreme.
start up your bronco,let it idle, pull the tranni dip stick and see if there is nay oil in the tranni
You have to turn it (motor) to start it even with spark if it's not a stick so you can push start and you jumped starter wires at the solenoid and it didn't crank, starter is no good. you can replace it yourself. I am assuming battery is good. Warning jumping the starter to test it on many cars will activate pats-;passive anti theft. If your theft light flashes with a key on, ECU has disabled it and you will need a locksmith.
You may have a bad "starter solenoid" or if you have a manual transmission it would be called an "interlock relay" (with a stick shift it is also wired through a switch on your clutch pedal so that you can't start it without the clutch disengaged) If it is not starting, tap on the starter motor with a hammer and try again. if it starts right away, this is the big sign that you have a bad starter motor.
AnswerOne of two things. It can either be a nickname for the "neutral safety switch," which keeps you from cranking the car unless it's out of gear and (usually) the clutch is depressed, or it's a switch that keeps you from cranking the car when it's already running. Answerbad bendix or bendix wiring?AnswerDo you mean when you turn the car off, and it keeps running, if that is the case the wiring on your alternator is reversed, if it is the starter that keeps running it could be the bendix wiring is crossed or getting a current from another wire. AnswerWhat is bendix wiring??? I am a licensed mechanic and Ive never heard of that one?? Your ign switch could be sticking sending power to your solenoid ,or the contacts in your solenoid or your plunger could be stuck / sticking. Which is not unheard of .Or you may need to shim the starter due to the fact the clearances are too tight causing the starter drive to stick in the flywheel. Holding the solenoid contacts closed.
If the bolts have been removed and the wires disconnected, try tapping the starter with a wooden block to loosen it, Sometimes the starter will stick in place due to sludge and grime.
it should have a fwd stick beside the gear shifter and it should tell you witch way to pull or push
It is a neutral switch.Starters on newer Isuzu will have a safety-switch installed, even for manual transmissions. The switch, inside the transmission or clutch, will disable the starter circuit until the vehicle is in the proper "mode" to engage the starter.For automatics, this means the starter won't engage unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral.For manuals, (stick-shifts) this means you must engage the clutch while turning the key. Until you engage the clutch, it will seem like the starter is dead.You can have a look at the related link for some trouble shooting pointers.The safety-switch(called a Mode switch for AT) is on the side of the transmission and the clutch switch is on a bracket in front of the clutch pedal. It is activated (switches on) once the clutch pedal is depressed.
Testing a starter typically only verifies that it works ELECTRICALLY. The Bendix on Fords (that's the gear assembly on the starter shaft which engages the flywheel) are notorious for causing what you describe; it's what occurs when the Bendix doesn't completely engage with the flywheel. Having said that, recognize that if the problem has gone on long enough you COULD have worn away the gears on the flywheel, and if you've done that you'll need to replace the flywheel. So... Option 1, replace the Bendix on the starter or replace the entire starter. Option 2, if option 1 didn't work, replace the flywheel (stick shift) or the flex plate (automatic transmission).
Stick a light up in there and check the condition of the teeth on the ring gear.
check your dip stick to see if your engine oil is too low. also check oil sending unit
well, to the best of my knowledge, and owning the same vehicle 10 years newer. you take 2 long wires (about the same guage as lamp cord. connect one to the solenoid wire on the starter and the other end of the second wire to the power wire on the starter. purchase a push button start button from your local auto parts store then connect the opposing ends of the wire to each contact on the button. stick the key in and turn to to "on" position and push the button. there ya go
It's really an opinion. Most people stick with Charizard, but it isn't really something you can know as a fact. Stick with what you think would be best.
It doesn't have a dipstick for the manual transmission , the transmission fluid level is checked at the FILL PLUG on the side of the transmission
Disconnect the batteries. Disconnect the ground wires, zip tie them together, and mark them. Disconnect the hot wires, zip tie them together, and mark them. Remove the starter bolts at the back of the starter.. there'll be three, and you'll need a 5/8" 12 point socket. A 5/8" combination wrench should be kept handy... if you can't get the bolts out with a ratchet or impact, stick the box end of the wrench on the bottom two bolts, and give the wrench several good kicks. For the top, if you're having difficulty, stick the box end of the wrench on the bolt, put a cheater pipe over it, and hammer on that cheater pipe. Once you've got it dropped, you'll disconnect the starter solenoid wire... this just requires a slotted screwdriver.Installation is the opposite of removal.
Idle Air Control Motor malfunctioning.
If it does nothing at all when you stick the key in..it could be the battery is totally dead. If there is a "clunk" sound when you turn the key..it has to do with the starter, solenoid, or related to the starting area. It could be the battery still (not charged enough to start the car). Turn on your headlights and see if they are dim, won't light, or are bright. If they are bright, it usually is not the battery. No gas. Dead battery. The possibilities are numerous. Start with the easiest and go from there. Is there fuel? Is there power from the battery to make starter turn and make the spark plugs spark?
If your car is still under warranty, it would be easiest to take it to the dealership and have a mechanic make the repair. Otherwise, it'll be easiest to just try and un-stick the short runner valve's air intake plenum. To do this, remove the solenoid and clean the tab thoroughly with carburetor cleaner until it is completely free of gunk and does not stick. Clear the code and replace the solenoid, then your car should run good as new.
if you stick a penis into the nintendo ds and ejaculate, the little sperms evolve into the starter pokemon and are released into the wild