My Altima had that problem and it was the water pump going out. It started with temperature gauge was moving, but then it started leaking and finally the heater stopped being warm at idle.
If you are absolutely sure you do not have air trapped in your cooling system then you may have a defective gauge if you are getting heat through your heater. Usually I would say you have a coolant flow problem with either a stuck thermostat or a bad water pump but if you have heat from your heater, then you must have circulating coolant in your system. I would check the gauge or the sensor.
If the coolant level is okay, I would suspect a restricted heater core. Try flushing the heater core.
The heater core may be plugged or not flowing properly. This would not allow the water to flow properly to cool the motor. Also you may have a bad or loose ground wire to your heater switch, this will give you a false reading on the temperature gauge.
This would indicate that the system is low on coolant when the gauge is hot. Not enough coolant to service the heater core.
What are you talking about? My temperature gauge works fine. Though, if it wasn't I would check the temperature sending unit.
temperature gauge not working can be caused by a bad temp sensor in engine, a bad gauge in dash, or a bad fuse
You set a heater to a certain temperature and when it reaches that it turns off.
Have you noticed your engine temperature gauge running cooler than usual ? The thermostat for your engine cooling system could be sticking open
It could be that your heater core is blocked or damaged somehow.
no you need to replace temperature sinding unit
Either the temperature sending unit or the gauge or the wiring in between is bad. I would put my money on the sending unit if the wire harness is plugged in and has no apparent damage.
First make sure you have the correct temp thermostat for your car. If you went with a cooler one, your heater won't work correctly. If you have the right thermostat, you probably have a bad heater control valve or your adjusting cable isn't connected. Check those things out. Your heater core could also be bad.............if the car is not overheating any more I would check that.
Engine is overheating, faulty gauge, faulty temp sensor......
The temperature sender (the sensor that sends the temperature signal to the gauge) has to be immersed in coolant in order to correctly read the temperature. If the coolant is so low that it leaves the sender high and dry, the temperature shown on the gauge will not be a true reading. if the sensor is not immersed in the coolant, there a big chance it wont read at all...
A stove is a two pole 50, and hot water heater i would recommend the same.
Check the coolant level, be sure it is to the full mark on the reservoir. Check the temperature gauge, when warmed up it should read aprox 200 degrees F, if not the thermostat may be stuck open, replace it. If the reservoir is full, with the engine running and the temp gauge reads aprox 200 degrees, feel the heater hoses with your hands, they should both be hot. If one is hot and the other is warm or cold, the heater is plugged and needs to be flushed. If both heater hoses are hot I would suspect the temperature blend door is at fault.
If you temperature gauge is going up and down then you may have a problem with your sensor. You should take your car to a professional to ensure that you don't overheat your car.
Steam would have a gauge 0-15 Hot water Tri indicator Temperature /pressure /altitude
1600 watts is unusually low for electric baseboard heaters! These usually are rated at about 6000 watts.Typical electric baseboard heaters operate on 220 volts thus you heater would pull about 7.3 amperes and 16 gauge wire can easily handle this.A standard 6000 watt baseboard heater pulls about 27 amperes and needs 10 gauge wire.
I'm not a mechanic / technician but your engine temperature gauge would indicate that the engine is running cooler than it usually would , the heat from your heater wouldn't be as hot , the gas mileage would be poorer , your check engine light may come on
No. It would be very uncommon for a thermostat to determine whether to turn the pool heater on based on the outdoor AIR temperature. All pool thermostats monitor the WATER temperature. In this way, they keep the water at a predetermined temperature (just like your house thermostat). When the water is cooler than the predetermined setting, the thermostat turns the heater on. When the water is cooler than the preset temperature, the heater is turned off. In this manner the pool water maintains the desired temperature regardless of changes in the air temperature. You could re-wire your thermostat to use air temperature rather than water temperature to turn the pool heater on/off so that whenever the AIR becomes colder than a preset temperature (and for as long as the air temperature stayed below that value), the heater would come on. The potential problem with this arrangement is that the heater could be continually on (as long as the air stayed cooler than the preset value) and the water would be continuously heated to a VERY high temperature! Conversely, if the air were continually warmer than the preset value, the heater might never turn on. Hope this helps ...
I would say average is 130 f in a home
The temperature gauge works intermittently or the temperature displayed varies varies or the gauge doesn't work at all. Many modern sending units serve two purposes, gauge and ECU. when the ECU side fails it should (but not always) throw up a fault code.