Having ABS does not change how you bleed the brakes. Bleed them as you would if it did not have ABS.
How to fix brake will not bleed out
The shop manual makes no mention of special requirements. Just bleed the brakes as you would any other car. In case you don't know how to bleed brakes try this link. http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4213448.html Hope this helps.
You need to bleed the entire brake system. Bleed in this sequence, RR, LR, RF, LF. If you do not know how to do this, do a search online for "bleeding brakes" THE REAR WHEEL CYLINDERS MAY BE LEAKING SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE WHEN DOING BRAKES AND BLEED REAR BRAKES
bleed it the same way u would bleed the brakes the bleeder is on the driver side of the trans on the bell housing
same way you would on any other vehicle
Bleed the master cylinder.& then rebleed the system.
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Possibly air in the lines, find someone knowledgable to help you bleed them
If no air got into the abs hcu then bleeding the brakes is done just as it would be on other vehicles. If air did get into the hcu or if you disconnected any brake like at the master cylinder or hcu then you will need to take it to a ford dealership to have them bleed the hcu and brakes for you.
Pretty much the same as you would any other car.
Your brakes need bleeding. And if you have antilock brakes, you should take it to a shop to bleed them. It takes special tools to bleed antilock brakes. If you have regular brakes you can bleed them yourself. Could go into further detail but would take too long to explain. Refer to a repair manual. Note: bleeding antilock brakes without first disconnecting the sensor will damage the sensor and the antilock function will no longer work (learned the hard way, unfortunately).
Sticking caliber. Flush the brake system and install fresh brake fluid, then bleed the brakes. If that does not help, replace both calibers and brake pads on the axle where the brakes are grabbing.
Sounds like you got air in the lines so you would have to bleed the brakes. Just saying that they suck doesn't explain much so I went for the bleed the brakes but if it was explained just what is going on with them maybe then it could be pin pointed.
Bleed theÊbrakesÊstarting with the right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. If the boosterÊwas gone, you would hear air leaking out of it when you pressed the pedal down.
You either got the wrong master cylinder or you haven't actually bled all the air out of the system.
if all lines are clear,try bleeding master cylinder directly,or you may have a collapsed brake hose on side that will not bleed also check routing of pipes for any kinks.
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You should replace your brakes almost every 100,00 miles. Many cars will let you know it is time to get your brakes replaced. If you are worried, I would have a mechanic look at it.
you bleed it just like you would blled your brakes 2 people one pumps then hold clutch the other opens bleed screw on slave cylinder till you get stream of fluid no air about 2 times then refill master cylinder but there is no bleeder screw on clutch
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just bleed it like you would your brakes, the bleeder valve should be right on it, you could replace it with a speed bleeder to make it easier, or use a vaacuum pump
The same procedure as bleeding any other vehicle unless you have taken the ABS/Traction Control Module off and apart. In which case you would need special expensive equipment to bleed the module of air.
your back brakes are supposed to apply before your front brakes, they do this so your car does not take a nose dive every time you apply the brakes. but if it is very noticeable i would check the adjustment of your rear brakes (if you have a disc/drum setup) or i would check your proportioning valve if they are locking up
A complete brake system flush costs about $110 Cdn. so you certainly shouldn't pay more than that for bleeding them.