There are three possibilities: the circuit is not rated for the power draw of the water heater, the breaker has failed or there is a problem with the water heater.
mebhi boroking pipeIf an electric water heater, the circuit breaker has tripped or the element(s) or thermostat(s) could be bad. Have a plumber check it.
One of the elements is shorting out.
No, they each need their own breaker of the right amp. Neither of them would cause the breaker to trip if there was a problem.
When you switch on the electric heater, electricity passes through the water in the bucket for warming.If any one comes in contact with the water when the switch is on, he/she is supposed to get electric shock. Nonsense! There are electric heater resistance elements in the water. No electricity is intentionally introduced to the water, if there were the water would be electrified throughout the piping network all the way back to the source including every house connected to the system. Before it ever got that far out of hand the circuit breaker would trip due to the direct short circuit eliminating the hazard. It sounds more like you have an element starting to fail and/or a grounding issue.[
No, that is perfectly fine as it is an electric heater, However if you had water near the electrical appliance, that would be dangerous.
I would run 10 AWG wire and use a 30 A 240 Volt Breaker.
A stove is a two pole 50, and hot water heater i would recommend the same.
first I would see if there is hot anywhere. if not the problem is with your water heater. if its electric check your breaker or fuse box. if gas call your friendly plumber
The yellow pages under swimming pools. Or if you live in Calif, Nev, Fl, Tx, Az look up IPSSA.Com or IPSSA.inc Do you have a portable spa? Electric heater could be the problem. A gas heater would not trip the breaker. K
The part that generates heat... depending if it is a gas / electric heater
Check that there isn't water around the water heater first, which would mean that turning it off and closing the water valve would be a good idea. Then, check the fuse box to see if the power has tripped--that is if it is an electric water heater.
If your having condensation at the bottom of the unit it could be that the bottom element has gone bad and when the cold water comes in and hits the warm tank it is condensating. Also if heating element has gone bad that could be a definite cause for the breaker to keep tripping.
No if your heater is electric you can not use a gas heater you have to use the electric heater and it would really cause too much to change over from electric to gas so I would truly stick to what heater you have noiw
You have a major electrical problem.. If a breaker trips more than once you need to leave it off and call an electrican.
It could be that a heating element in your water heater, if is electric, is cracked. This would allow electricity to flow through the water and be felt in the stream of water.
Yes it would be unlikely an electric motor coincidentally exactly matched the resistance of an electric heater.
If it is a electric water heater, then one of the heating elements are burned out.
I'm assuming you mean 100 amp service, not circuit breaker? The NEC code states the minimum service is 100A. Depending on your definition of "small", this would be sufficient. It all depends on your large loads too (Electric water heater, Air conditioner, electric range, etc). These appliances can pull some large amperage.
A 60A breaker will protect a very large conductor indeed, much larger than an ordinary household water heater would need. Many houses only have a single 60A main fuse!It would be pointless and dangerous to use a 60A breaker to protect an electrical cable (and appliance) rated for, say, 30 amps. So, you will need to find out the name-plate rating on the water heater before you burn something down.
Electric garage heaters come in several sizes. A 1500 Watt 120 volt plug in heater would need a 15 amp circuit with 14 gauge wire for temporary use. A 5000 watt 240 volt heater would need a dedicated 25 amp circuit breaker and a 10 gauge wire. Every home is different and this is intended as a general reference only. Seek competent professional advice for your specific application.
If the load is resistive (heater) then the breaker size would be a two pole 40 amp breaker. If the load is inductive (motor) then the breaker size would be a two pole 70 amp breaker
The supply from the breaker would need to be rated at enough amps to supply both appliances together. Since both these items use a lot of current that might be a problem. <<>> In North America, the electrical code states that high current appliances have to be on a dedicated circuit. Since the breaker protects the wire, two separate smaller conductors would be used. A dryer breaker is 30 amps and a hot water tank requires 20 amp breaker. If the appliances were paralleled off of a common breaker it would have to have a rating of 50 amps. This would require a #8 conductor and then to a junction box where the wire would have to be split to each appliance. The wire size can not be reduce at the junction box as the electrical code stated that any reduction in wire size needs to have a breaker or fuse, sized to protect the new wire size.
Yes you can do that. I had an oil fired furnace that also heated the hot water in a coil inside the furnace. I got an electric hot water heater and had a plumber disconnect the coil in the furnace and hook up the electric hot water heater. No problems after four years.
It would help as most of the rust accumulates at the bottom of the tank.
Only the fan is working, there is no gas burning (gas heater) or the electric heating element is not working(electric heater)Answeris it electric gas or oil Its gas.