You've got to be kidding with that answer!?!? You have no business in a room where water chemistry is being talked about. 7.0 pH is neutral pH. It won't hurt anything.
On the other hand, the ASM Handbook points out that high TDS water through a heat exchanger will result in impingement and erosion corrosion, which is why all the heat exchangers have started failing since salt systems came along. It's probably the reason that somebody asked this question. And why pool heater warranties have plummeted from 5 years to 1 year since about 2004. What I coincidence! Huh? Imagine that...
Here's a link to the ASM Handbook where you can read all about these kinds of corrosion:
http://books.Google.com/books?id=idIWxNnH3iIC&pg=PA999&lpg=PA999&dq=impingement+corrosion&source=bl&ots=7ubxPY3a9C&sig=FPg0JS9xZm-qCPsGmPaEpRN8sTk&hl=en&ei=CIWySc_AJYmcMv25qecE&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=10&ct=result#PPA998,M1AnswerSalt water should not have any major effects on your pool Plumbing since the levels of salt are so minimal. The damaging effects to copper plumbing would be from acidic conditions - pH readings of 7.0 or lower and total alkalinity readings below 80 ppm.
The only negative reaction you might have is from pool water being unbalanced. When the pH is low the water is corrosive and may cause damage to copper pipes. There are no "reactions" with chlorine.
Burst water pipes and water heaters busting are covered for the damage caused inside the house if its sudden and accidental, but the pipe or water heater themselves are not covered as this is maintenance. This is generally not a problem as the damage is more severe than the piece of pipe. Outdoors is going to be more of a problem as the damage is nothing anyway. More information is needed to give you a complete answer. Are you talking about sprinkler system, pipes in a pool house for the pool, or other pipes. Cause is the issue in question as well.
It can crack the pool and any pipes that has water in them that freeze. a way of protecting the pool is to float drums in a line along the middle of the pool there by leaving an unfrozen track along the middle into which the ice can expand. You should definitely empty the filter and exposed water pipes.
No; green hair is caused by copper pipes. Just rinse your hair in water that has not gone through the pool plumbing after swimming.
Bring the level of the pool below the static skimmer level then find the lowest point in your pool pipes and let the water out.
I see no reason why you would insulate them. When you close your pool for winter you will purge (empty) your pump and pipes. The water in the pool would freeze long before the water will in the pipes under ground.
If there are no steel pipes used in the pool construction then the iron was present in the water before it was added to the pool.
The general system ofreducing the water in the pool below the skimmer basket level is so that the filtration equipment and tubing can be drained. This averts the danger if the pipes freezing and other damage occurring as a result of frozen water in the filtration system.
"normal" levels of chlorine don't damage plumbing. However abnormal levels of pH will.
You should remove the antifreeze with a shop vac if possible, antifreeze will not hurt the water, but is just one more thing in the water that you do not need to be there.
If no water is visible around pump/filter mechanism then there is a crack somewhere in the pool or pipes leading to and from pump/filter.
I would NOT recommend leaving the pool drained all winter. If water froze in your hydrostatic relief pipes it could be the same as leaving them plugged. Further, moisture in the ground under the pool shell could freeze, expand, and "heave" the pool.
Your pool water probably has high copper content. You can remove it with a metal inhibitor.
If water freezes it expands. so if the water on your pipes turn to ice 0c then you are in danger of cracking pipes.
Low pH causes more damage than chlorine on copper plumbing. Nonetheless, high chlorine levels, sulfur compounds, metal scavengers and the high salt levels from the spent chemicals are all erosive to copper piping. Flow velocity is also a key factor in determining the rate of erosion. At 7gpm expect no more than 10 years life for 1" type K (very heavy) copper, 5 years or less for type M (typical low budget) copper. Copper pipe is not recommended for pool plumbing. Cupronickel alloys that do not contan zinc or tin are corrosion resistant in pool water, as are 300 and 400 series stainless steels, some more so than others.
Water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit (which is 0 degrees Celsius). The factors which might change the temperature at which your pool pipes may freeze are: - other materials (such as salt) which are dissolved in the water - the rate of flow (if any) of the water through the pipes - the pipe diameter - the insulating properties of the pipes themselves - whether the pipes are buried underground Good luck with your pool!
Test your water for high levels of copper.
yes i have this problem, 3 years ago i treated it successfully with a copper based product. it has now returned with a vengeance and nothing has stopped the spread. i am thinking of adding copper sulphate directly to the pool, has anyone tried this? does it work? can it damage the equipment?
Trace amounts of copper in your water. Use a metal remover from your pool store.
3% or less copper. Silver kills bacteria, Copper kills algae
No, salt does not damage the plaster. Improper water balance will.
pour directly into the skimmer basket at the pool
You run the risk of the skimmer area being damaged or cracked as well as water in the pipes freezing and bursting pipes.