Answer: Check your starter
the problem with your truck is either the battery does not have enough cranking amps, or the starter is beginning to wear out. first time i ever had this problem i put a higher cranking rated battery in and that solved the problem
Yes. Having more than needed isn't a problem, as long as the battery will fit the car.
Dead cells in the battery or your starter is going out. Worn out starters tend to consume more "cranking amps" from the battery, making it seem like the battery has a problem.
750 cold cranking amps is what i had in my 69 c-10 top post .i never had a problem out of it.
"Big" Battery Damage Alternator?No, it should not damage the alternator. If this has happened it's probable that the problem is somewhere in the wiring circuit connected to the battery and alternator.
To test the starter, you need a verified fully charged battery and good connections. Crank the engine and check cranking speed, cranking noise, and cranking current. Compare against the manufacturer's specifications. Unfortunately, this can be a recurring problem, because failure in the starter, battery, or alternator can cause one or both of the other two to fail. Careful attention to detail is necessary. Don't just replace one part, without then verifying that the others are OK.
The battery light will come on when the engine fails, not part of the problem. Check out the ignition coil ballast resistor (if iftted). Its bypassed when cranking and in circuit when normal running
If your question is what may be a problem with a car that you have to change the battery after a new battery was installed a month ago? Then the alternator may be suspect and or a draw from the electrical system.
check for spark and fuel pressure I just had this problem with a 1989 Cherokee and had to have a Cranking Sensor installed.
biggest problem with ford starters burning out is caused by a bad battery and prolonged engine turning over if hard to start. if starter has been replaced, your battery may not have correct cranking amps. bare in mind that a hot engine actually takes more cranking amps than a cold engine to start.
When you say, that it won't "turn over", it is assumed that the engine will not crank when you attempt to engage the starter. If it's cranking but the engine isn't starting the following doesn't apply. If it's not cranking... Usually it's battery, alternator or battery terminals. If that isn't the problem start checking the neutral lockout, the keyswitch or the starter and/or solenoid.
I had a problem with my 98 cranking but without spark. I traced and tested all of the sensors and harnesses until I realized the obvious. The ignition system will not operate unless it sees a minimum of 8 volts while cranking. I hooked up a simple voltmeter and tesed during cranking and had a reading of only 7.65. I confirmed the problem by cleaning the terminals and used a jumperbox. The voltage read an average of 8.75 and it started. I replaced the battery and problem solved.
Is it a problem of the battery goes dead or does it crank but not catch? If the battery is going dead over time perhaps you need to check the battery and/or alternator. If it's cranking but not starting, check the computer codes.
Load test the battery at half of its cold cranking amp capacity. If it dips under 9.6v, replace the battery. If your battery is good, replace the ignition solenoid, it should be on the firewall somewhere near the passenger side.
hard to say is the starter turning could also be a fuel problem or electric/ecu problem
My 2000 GMC Jimmy is slow cranking. The battery voltage meter is showing charged so I am assuming that the starter is the problem. Where do I find the starter to remove it?
polo 1.2 is cranking but no fire
Be most suspicious of the battery itself or of the terminals. Battery cables can become corroded inside the coating of the cable and may not be noticable from looking at it this corrison can run all the way to your starter. The cables are a cheap repair that can solve the problem. also your ground wire could be corroded
An error code P1684 from an OBDII code reader indicates that the battery had recently been disconnected. This is normal if a new battery was installed but can indicate a connection issue or grounding problem.
You need a new battery or it has a battery cable connection problem. The battery needs a full charge too - like driving around for an hour to charge it back up. A voltmeter is useful to read battery voltage when cranking. 12.6 volts =full charge. When cranking it may drop to 10 volts. If the starter won't turn over use the voltmeter to check for the 12 volts on the battery and then starter battery cable connection point.
Do the headlamps work while cranking the starter? If not focus on your battery and cables. Jump start the car and have the system tested before you throw more dollar bills at this problem; it could be the alternator but have it tested first.
The battery becomes less efficient as the temp drops. The problem is the vehicle requires more power to start the engine as the temp drops. So, if you live in a cold climate, purchase a battery with a higher CCA reading.
Check your battery voltage. It should be reading over 12 volts while cranking. Todays batterys will not even take a jump when they die... Are the battery cables corroded? Check to see if the ground cable is secure to the block
the ecu is reset when you disconnect the battery. after driving for awhile or letting the car idle in drive, your problem should be solved. the ecu is reset when you disconnect the battery. after driving for awhile or letting the car idle in drive, your problem should be solved.
If the 1996 Dodge Intrepid will not start, there might be an issue with the battery or the starter. This could also be a problem with the solenoid or the fuel gauge or fuel pump. The problem and the fix will vary depending on whether the car is completely dead or is cranking when the ignition is turned.