http://www.Ford-trucks.com/article/idx/14/206/article/Eliminating_Serpentine_Belt_Noise.html
Should only be one bolt in the middle of the pulley that releases it.
Or tensioner bolt if different
If it's not driving anything, it's the idler pulley.
It could be an accessory such as an alternator, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, etc. and/or it cud be the belt. You can check this by removing the belt and checking to see if the knock is still there if it is then you may have a bent rod.
yes it does i just took one off
change the idler pulley
Start in the upper / center postition and continue clockwise. 1. Over / Right - Generator pulley 2. Outside / Right edge of power steering pump pulley 3. Under the Crankshaft pulley 4. Over the Idler pulley 5. Under / Left Tensioner (pulley) 6. Over / Left A/C Compressor pulley 7. Under Water Pump pulley
If one takes a look at a fan belt diagram for a Chevrolet 3500 with an 8.0 liter engine, one can see a tensioner and water pump pulley. There are also crankshaft, idler, and generator pulleys.
You have to buy the assembly with the mounting bracket. You can't just buy the pulley itself. You buy the whole assembly and remount it to the engine. that is not the whole truth. you can buy the pulley by its-self. the part is sold on eBay for $33, my father is having this problem and we have to replace the pulley
Answer 1: 4 cylinder The A/C belt and the Alternator belt are the same on a 97 Caravan. Just losen the alternator bolt and it should be able to come of easy Answer 2: My 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.0 has two belts; one serpentine for the alternator and steering pump and a typical v-belt for the a/c. The serpentine is the wider belt of course and it snakes around the alternator pulley, a spring loaded tension idler, a fixed idler, a crankshaft pulley and a power steering pump. The tension idler is located nearest to the alternator and should appear as a tension idler on the serpentine belt path decal in the engine compartment or other belt diagrams that can be had on line or in a repair manual . The second idler is fixed and cannot be adjusted. The tension idler can be pulled down in an arc toward the front of the car with a 15mm wrench on the idler shaft bolt by applying pressure as if you were tightening the idler's shaft bolt until the idler's spring tension is overcome and idler will move in a forward arc thereby reducing the pressure on the serpentine belt so that the belt can be removed and/or installed. The tension idler does not require the loosening of any locking bolt as is the case with the a/c idler in the following paragraph. It might be easier to use an extension handle on the wrench in order to move the tension idler. It might also be easier to have a second person to move the tension idler,but in any case, make sure the socket or box wrench that you will be using is securely attached to the bolt. DO NOT USE A PRY BAR AS IT CAN EASILY SLIP! Turning the idler shaft bolt counterclockwise will simply be removing the idler. When the idler shaft bolt is released and is applying tension to the serpentine belt, ascertain that the belt has fit properly on each of the grooved pulleys. The a/c belt is a V-belt that connects the crankshaft and a/c compressor pulleys and the V-belt's tension is maintained by a manually adjustable idler pulley. Unlike the serpentine belt the V-belt doesn't have a spring loaded tension idler. The idler pulley creates belt tension by the turning of an adjustment screw which moves an idler pulley shaft bracket away from the tangential line of the a/c V-belt . Before the bracket will move in response of the turning of the adjustment screw however, you must loosen the idler pulley shaft screw to allow the bracket to slide. Screw the adjustment bolt counterclockwise to allow the idler pulley to free all tension and then some to facilitate the V-belt removal and/or installation. Once tension is removed from the belts, they can be removed. To get the serpentine belt off, the V-belt has to be removed, unless you are Houdini. The greatest physical exertion should be the movement of the tension idler and with an extension, a child could make the movement. To install the serpentine belt simply place it properly on the pulleys and idlers and release the tension idler. To install the V-belt, reverse the above V-belt removal steps and tighten the idler pulley bracket adjustment bolt until the belt is tight but do not over tighten the belt and DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE IDLER PULLEY SHAFT SCREW when you are satisfied with the tension! Check the belt area for tools and for improper conditions before starting the engine. Viel Glück Good luck. Answer 3: If you have a 3.3 or 3.8 liter you need to rotate the belt tensioner, which is below the alternator, with a 15mm wrench. You can now slide belt off.
I'm assuming this is equipped with the 4.1 liter engine, and it's FWD. Since it runs off the serpentine belt, not easily. If anyone makes a bypass pulley for it, that would work, but I've never seen one for these cars. All it would be is a bracket that bolts in place of the AC compressor and has a pulley on it for the belt to go over it. It would just be like having an extra idler pulley. If you have the skills and equipment, you could make one. If you're accustomed to fabricating (ie - a machinist, tool and die maker, or custom car builder) you could make it yourself fairly easily, but I wouldn't recommend this for amateurs.
The 1988 Mitsubishi 2.0 liter engine timing marks can be found on the front main pulley. The timing marks will be scattered around the outside of the pulley.