Make sure you have a good ground
check for power at the trailer connector.
Are you getting power to sockets? Make sure you have a good ground circuit
Take a light tester and check the pins at the truck side trailer plug. With the truck set for running lights check for power at the pins. If there is power then there is a loose or bad wire on the trailer side. If there is no power then there is a power problem on the truck side.
Your trailer tailights are dual-filament, with one being the running lights and the other the brake lights. You need a separate power source from your towing vehicle's brake lights to power them. The easiest way to do this is go to U-Haul and but a set of their trailer towing taillight bulbs for your towing vehicle. The bulbs replace your standard tail/brake light bulbs, and they have two wires coming out of the base of the bulb. One of the wires connects to your trailer's running lights, and the other one connects to your trailer's brake light circuit. I'm trusting that when you re-wired your trailer, you ran two wires from the taillight socket, one for the running lights and one for the brake lights. In some trailers, the brake light circuit also doubles as your turn signals. Good Luck.
The center pin of a seven blade trailer plug is for reverse lights, not power. What type of truck is it? What trailer plug do you have...
First understand the wiring. It can use four to seven wires to control lighting. Choose the correct connector. Connect all the necessary components to work simultaneously such as electric trailer brake controller, backup lights and a 12V power supply. Take the vehicle to an expert if the task is tricky.
Change the trailer light bulbs to 24 volts and supply a 24 volt source to power them, in that order.
The Control Unit and Harness are strongly recommended if you are going to tow anything that requires lights/brake controls. FYI, you don't have to get HONDA control units, most businesses that sell trailers sell various name brands and can do the wiring for you. Anyway, the wiring for the taillights and brakes lights of the vehicle are not strong enough to carry enough power to supply the electrical on a trailer (very dim-could cause a short). The Harness connects a power source (battery) to the trailer wires. The Control Unit is connected to the vehicle wiring as well as the Harness. When you step on the brake pedal, the Control Unit senses it and allows the power to go to the proper wiring on the trailer directly from the power source, therefore you will have brighter lights on the trailer. The same for parking and turn indicators. This is worth the money. I have this set up on my 2003 Odyssey.
When you turn in a tractor trailer (or any vehicle with a trailer), the tyres of that trailer aren't going to take the same course as the tyres on the power unit - they'll go within the turn radius of the power unit. Drivers need to be aware of this, as this can cause the trailer to hit things the power unit would clear, such as curbs, utility poles, etc.
If you have a 1998 or newer it could be a fuse in the power distribution center under the hood. The whole trailer light system is fused through there.
Open the hood and look in the engine compartment. On the forward left side (as if you are looking forward from the steering wheel) there should be a fuse box. The cover should pry off with finger pressure. On the inside of the cover is a diagram of fuses. Look for a 15A fuse that says "Trailer running/clearance lights". Pull it out. If there is any discoloration or sign of burning, replace it. This should give you power to the trailer. If you have any other lights out on the trailer, check some of the other fuses. Turn/stop/ back up lights have fuses in this location.
Make sure that the wiring harness is properly grounded. Baring that, there is probably a short in the wiring somewhere. A short means the two wires used in trailer lighting are touching someplace.
Because lighting up the brake lights of both the car and the trailer pulls too much power. If the problem is a specific trailer then your trailer may be mis-wired. You may also have a mis-wired trailer wire adapter.
The trailer wires are not fused. If the corresponding lights e.i. right turn, left turn, park, or stop lights work on the vehicle, then the corresponding wires of the trailer harness should have power at the same time (have someone put their foot on the brake and the brake light wire will have 12 volts while the brake light of the vehicle are lit. Same with the turn signals). Remember that one of the wires is a ground and one is available for an auxiliary use.
No, it's highly illegal. In some states, however, the vehicle may be allowed to display the plate only on the back of the power unit - on a tractor-trailer combination, this may give the impression of the vehicle not having a plate, as the trailer effectively hides it from view.
If the total weight rating of the combination (power and trailer) is over 26,000 lbs., and it's not a vehicle under exemption for CDL requirements, then yes.
The relay is in the power distribution box in the engine compartment on the driver side. There are two white relay next to each other one is trailer tail lights the other is trailer back up lights. The tail light relay is the one closest to the firewall.
All you have to do is change the bulbs to 12 volts and supply the trailer with a 12 volt power source. If you leave the original 24 volt bulb in the trailer they will only glow at 1/2 of their rated wattage.
Well, that's going to depend on the Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings of the power unit and of the trailer. If it was a tractor-trailer with a trailer that short, then it wouldn't be able to gross 80k - in order to do that, the bridge between the drive tandems on the power unit and the tandems on the trailer must be at least 35 feet - a length greater than the trailer you described. You'd need some specifics about the tow vehicle and the trailer in order for this question to be answered accurately. We only know a trailer length - we don't know the GVWR of the trailer, and nothing about the tow unit, which could be anything from a Class 1 truck (0 - 6000 lbs. GVWR) up to a Class 8 truck (GVWR in excess of 33,000 lbs).
It sounds like your power wire matched up with a ground wire on the trailer or vise versa so replace the blown fuse for the marker lights and everything should be good. Check fuses in cab and in engine compartment.
The Sierra 4x4 is an SUV vehicle. It has 2 doors and 4 seats and the vehicle is manufactured by Suzuki. It has a number of features including air conditioning, fog lights and power steering.
Based on experience with my own 2006 Dodge Ram 2500, your TIPM may have failed. In the infinite wisdom of Dodge Chrysler engineers and management, the year model 2006 and forward has a TIPM which controls the power circuites to the trailer harness - there are no fuses, only computer module. For reasons unknown except to profit the corporation and dealers, if there is a trailer fault the TIPM shuts off power to the effected trailer circuit, which then must be reset by the dealer. If the circuit shut out condition repeats more than 5 times, then the TIPM must be replaced (I was quoted $711). More information around the TIPM and SB's: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/08-021-06.htm There is no information in the owners manual around the TIPM and how to protect it from trailer wiring faults. == == The trailer lights working on another vehicle suggests that the trailer wiring is all done correctly. You did not mention if the tail lights and turn signals on your Ram pick up are working, or not. IF your truck tail, brake, and turn signal lights operate properly, then there is nothing wrong THEIR FUSES OR CIRCUIT BREAKERS, leading to the conclusion that the problem is in the very short section of wiring harness which is is supposed to be properly wired into the tail light, break light, turn signal for your truck. None of the trailer lights working when plugged in, suggests that the ground wire in the harness is open/not connected. IF the trailer lights worked, but turned on the wrong lights when activated, would suggest that some of the wires were "crossed," miss routed. Again, the fact that none of the lights are working when plugged into your truck indicates that the short wiring harness between the light system on your truck to the connector plug is not connected properly, and probably has an "open" ground. As a mechanic at a Dodge dealer, Answer #2 is most likely.
The general definition is that a vehicle includes a motor vehicle, trailer, traction engine, farm tractor, road-building machine, bicycle and any vehicle drawn, propelled or driven by any kind of power, including muscular power, but does not include a motorized snow vehicle or a street car (Section 1 of the act). There is a special definition of the term in section 61 which says that in Part VI of the Act (the part having to do with equipment) it also includes "a conversion unit and a trailer converter dolly", just in case you were worried.
1998 ford f150 5.4 liter v8 triton 4x4 20 amp fuse is not blown but has no power to it for the trailer stop & turn but has running lights
it is under the hood on the driver side in the fuse box