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Why an electrical device will not work if the neutral is not connected in a single phase system?
To make any electrical circuit work it has to be complete. Source of power to the load, the load itself and a return path from the load back to the source. The source in this case being the distribution panel. Any breaks in this complete path will cause the current to stop flowing and the device to not work. A light fixture and light switch work on this principle, open the circuit and the light goes out.
What does the term floating neutral mean?
This could mean a couple of different things. At some point in the power distribution system, the neutral bus is normally tied to the ground bus. If the neutral is not grounded, this could be called a floating neutral. More often, the term is used to describe a load, such as a light fixture or motor where the neutral wire has accidentally not been connected. The hot wire is live, but the device does not function. The neutral wire normally provides the return path for current to flow. This is a very dangerous situation. The live voltage flows from the hot wire, through the load, then into the neutral wire. If the neutral is not connected (grounded), it becomes hot! Everyone knows the hot wire can bite you, but we normally expect the neutral to be dead. We may carelessly handle the neutral, thinking it is dead, but if it is floating (unconnected), it could be live. Many people have been killed in this fashion. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
What is a roof eave?
Roof eave is the overhang portion of the roof or the distance from the outerside of the wall to the edge of the roofing.
What is importance of a polarity test?
HERE'S AN EXAMPLE: IF THE POLARITY IS BACKWARDS AT A LIGHT FIXTURE THEN THE HOT (120VOLTS) WILL BE THE OUTSIDE OF THE LIGHT BULB SCREW SHELL AND THE MIDDLE PRONG INSIDE THE SOCKET WILL BE THE NEUTRAL -- THEREFORE WHEN YOU CHANGE THE BURNT OUT LIGHT BULB YOU WILL GET SHOCKED BECAUSE THE SCREW SHELL PART IS HOT!! IF WIRED CORRECTLY YOU WILL NOT GET SHOCKED BECAUSE THE HOT (120VOLTS) WILL BE INSIDE THE SCREW SHELL ON THE PRONG AND YOU WON'T BE TOUCHING THAT PART WHEN YOU CHANGE THE LIGHT BULB!!
What is the neutral in a electrical circuit for?
Good question! In US residential wiring, you have 3 wires feeding your home off the transformer: two hots and neutral. The transformer is a 240V center tapped transformer. The neutral is the center tap. Well, that's all fine and good, but your probably asking "what does that mean?" right about now. Well, since the transformer is 240V, you have 240V in between the two hots. The center tap divides the transformer winding in the middle. So between either hot and neutral you get 120V. Neutral is kind of a return wire for 120V circuits. (I say "kind of" because this is AC, current is flowing in both directons.) Well, why is it called neutral, then? At your main service panel a fourth wire comes into play: ground. Ground is simply a heavy safety wire that goes to a 8ft long copper rod driven into the ground. This ground wire is connected to all metal surfaces you touch (panels, screws, metal junction boxes, metal cases on appliances, etc.) In the main panel (and only the main panel) neutral is bonded to ground. So, while neutral is not ground, when everything is correct it should be "neutral," i.e. it has no potential on it. You cannot assume neutral is grounded or safe to touch, however. By the very nature of wire, if there is a current in a wire there is a potential across it. This potential is usually very small, but is still there. The bigger problem is if the neutral connection becomes very resistive or open. Then the neutral will be live as it cannot "return" the energy to the transformer. (Again, not a totally correct analogy, but it gets the point across.) This is why you shouldn't just bond ground to neutral when you don't have a ground wire at a fixture. When a hot wire goes open, fixtures simply fail to operate. When a neutral goes open, the fixture and the neutral between the fixture and the break go live. The fixture will not work, however, giving people a false sence of security. (No the light is not on, yes it can knock you on your butt.) This is why you want to keep your neutrals in good shape. With the neutral you have two hot wires both capable of producing 120V to neutral. Because the hots have 240V across them (and not 0), one hot goes positive while the other hot goes negative. So, let's say you take two loads with a resistance of 60 ohms. You hook the neutrals of the loads up to neutral, one load to one hot, and the other load to the other hot. How much energy flows through the neutral conductor? 0W. This is because the load is "balanced." The amount of energy flowing through load one is equal to the energy flowing through load two. Let's do a testcase for a specific point in time. Let's say hot 1 for load one is at +60V, and hot two for load two is -60V. Ignoring load two, load one has a current of 1A (60V/60ohms=1A) flowing from hot one through the load and back to the transformer through the neutral. We will call current into the transformer on the neutral positive, and current out of the transformer on the neutral negative. So our neutral has a current of 1A on it for load one. Load two has a current of 1A flowing out of the neutral, through load two, and back into the transformer on hot 2. So, by our signing above, load 2 has a current of -1A on the neutral. To calculate the actual current on the neutral, we add the currents for the two bulbs: 1A + -1A = 0A. Current is flowing out hot one, through bulb one, through bulb two, and back to the transformer on hot 2. Make sense? Now, let's say you have the same setup as above, only load 1 is 30ohms. Well, now the neutral has to carry the extra amp of current. The loads are no longer balanced, so the neutral has to carry the difference. At our 60V test case, the current of load one is now 2A. The neutral current is 2A + -1A = 1A. So, this means that the neutral only carries the difference in power between the two hots. This is also why your neutral doesn't need to be twice as heavy as your hots. Let's say you have 200A service. While you can have 400A of current flowing to 120V appliances all over your home, it is actually +200A to half and -200A to the rest. Your neutral carries 0A, not 400A. Let's go back to our last example, with the 60ohm and 30ohm light bulbs. Let's say some unscroupulous DIYer used the conduit the feed is in for a neutral instead of a dedicated neutral wire. Let's say a clamp to the pipe came off and now we have no neutral connection. Now, we had +60 on hot 1 and -60 on hot 2. So our loads have 120V across them. Now, in this ideal test case, our loads appear as a single 90ohm load to the supply. This means that there is 1.334A flowing through our circuit (120V/90ohms = 1.334A). This also means that load 1 us underpowered by 2/3 of an an amp, while load two is overpowered by one third of an amp. If loads one and two were lightbulbs, bulb one would be dim while bulb two would be brilliant. As both loads have 1.334A flowing through them, load one has 40V across it, while load 2 has 80V across it. Remember, at this point they are both supposed to have 60V across them. Our little set up above is how 240/120V applances work. In, say, your dryer, you would have a third load that is directly across the two hots. Load 3 would be your heater, load 1 would be your timer, and load two could be the light in the drum. If your neutral comes open you could toast your timer or bulb. Most appliance manufacturers actually avoid using both hots for 120V, if possible, for this very reason. You can never be sure, though. Now, the other thing to keep in mind is your whole home functions as a 240V/120V appliance. Load 3 is your heavy appliances, the heaters in your dryer, oven, waterheater, etc.. Loads one and two are all your 120V appliances, light fixtures, etc. So while an open neutral doesn't cause too much of a headache on your dryer, it does cause a big headache in your home. Let's say your service neutral comes open, and you have 1500W of appliances on for load 1, and a 100W porch light on for load 2. That porch light is going to burn out very quick. Now it is impossible to garuantee that load 1 will equal load 2 without being obsessive-compulsive. What you can do is when you plan your load and circuits, try to balance them. This will keep current in the neutral low, which will prevent bad connections from burning open. Also, in the event neutral does fail, if the loads are close to balanced you may only see 90V/150V instead of 10V/230V across your 120V loads. Your appliances my be able to tolerate the former until you notice, they can't tolerate the latter. A resistive neutral is a nasty little problem. It has ultimately the same effects as an open neutral, but is much more subtle. With a resisive neutral, there is a connection, but it is bad. When no current is flowing through the neutral, it appears OK. The more current flows through the neutral, the more potential develops across it by ohms law. This means that if your neutral has 25A flowing through it, and has 2 ohms of resistance, the neutral wire has 50V across it. This also means that your neutral bus in your panel is not at 0V (with respect to the transformer), but is at 50V favoring whichever load (1 or 2, as above) is heavier. This means that the lighter load will be overvoltaged. Also note that resistive neutrals get worse with time. Since our example neutral has 25A at 50V on it, it is dissipating 1250W at some point in the wire. This point is the resistive connection, and will get hot as it dissipates all this power. As it gets hot, it will burn a little further open, and the circle continues. NOTE: This procedure involves probing your service panel or heavy outlet while live. This is dangerous. If you are not comfterable with this, call an electrician. They can check for this quickly and tell you exactly what you need to do to fix it. The easiest way is with a AC voltmeter. Leaving everything on as you normally would. Check the voltage from one hot to neutral, then from the other hot to neutral. This can be done at your panel, at a dryer outlet, at an oven outlet, or at any other 240/120V outlet. If the voltages differ by more than a volt or two, you may have a problem. Call an electrician, as work on your main service must be done by someone licenced, and they have lots of experience with this.
The portion of a light ray that falls on a surface is a?
The portion of a light ray that falls on a surface is incident ray.
What portion of the engergy spectrum is visible light?
Visible light is in the portion of the electromagnetic spectrum between infrared (IR) and ultraviolet (UV) light.
With machine in neutral neutral light doesn't come on and electric start don't work?
Switch for neutral broken or not in correctly. It may operate a relay. Find it and see if it comes on and off with you switching the machine out of neutral and back. If it is fused check that. You can put your meter across the open fuse and watch the meter as you switch.
Is warm neutral light the same as warm white light?
No, warm neutral light is a mix of warm and cool tones, creating a balanced light whereas warm white light is a more traditional warm light. Warm neutral light can provide a more natural and comfortable lighting experience compared to warm white light.
The portion of a light ray that falls on a surface is?
The portion of a light ray that falls on a surface is incident ray.
How does the neutral light on a 920 virago come on?
If the light doesn't come on, rock the bike back and forth, then kick into first, then into neutral. It should always come on. It will not start unless it is in neutral.
What could make Fuse 17 blow when you shift from reverse to neutral?
Short circuit somewhere in the reverse-light or even the reverse switch itself. Other causes are also possible.
Can you use neutral in a sentence?
Example sentence - We painted with neutral colors throughout our home.
How do you turn on the interior lights in a punto?
The interior light on my (01 reg) Punto is the light itself. It operates as a 3 position rocker switch:- 1) Light on all the time (LHS pushed up) 2) Light comes on when doors open ( Centre posn) 3) Light off all the time (RHS pushed up)
Which portion of the electromagnetic spectum can be viewed with the bare human eye?
The visible light spectrum (wavelengths from 380 to 700 nanometers)
What does in the lime light time mean?
to be in centre of public
Do you need a neutral wire for a light to work?
In most cases, yes. A neutral wire is usually required for a light to work properly, as it completes the circuit and allows electricity to flow to and from the light fixture. If there is no neutral wire, the light may not function correctly or at all.
