to remove the dash board first remove the center grille by the windshield and remover the 2 sensors be careful not to break the housings there are 3 bolts along the front edge then remove the air vents in the dash look on each side of the vent there is a clip that bends outward with a small screwdriver etc and there is a screw in the upper middle of the opening use a service light to see them, there are 7 total remove them completely and the dash comes right out by lifiting it up at one end.. remove fuse A 3 under the hood and fues A5 and B5 in the trunk ..
Well, a variety of things would cause sputtering and hesitation. When the engine is cold, the thickness of oil is greatly increased, and may not make it all the way up to the top of the valves and that would make the engine rumble and die. Colder temperatures also would make a throttle stick, causing hesitation. Your choke may be sticky. Maybe your temperature sensor is off, and is registering the 'cold' temp colder than it actually is. At any rate, plan an extra minute or two and LET YOUR CAR WARM UP before you drive it. And remember, everyone else on the road has had their cars sputter, hesitate, and die in traffic. It happens when its cold out.
If it is a new enough Toyota the fuel injectors take a while to warm up and often does that in my truck don't worry about it but let it warm up like five minutes or so before going over twenty-five or so.
My experience with a '98 Tacoma 4 cylinder: the mass air sensor was dirty. Twice.
It is just downstream of the air cleaner. First time a small tear in the air filter allowed dirt in. Second time a tiny bit of hair, probably off my shirt, when I changed the filter.
I don't know any "official" answer, but I can list a few good traits:
High energy density. A gallon of gasoline can send a thousand pound car hurtling down a road at 60 mph, for 30 or so miles. Some of that is efficient use of the energy, but that energy has to be there. A fuel that needs, say, 5 gallons to achieve the same effect has a handicap.
Low energy cost to produce. Some fuels have a high energy density, but we spend tons of energy producing them. Ethanol has had some criticism leveled at it for this reason. It costs a lot more, energy wise, to produce ethanol instead of gasoline, and the increased efficiency doesn't make up for it. For low energy cost, the ideal fuel is something you can just pick up and put into your tank.
Stable. You don't have to worry about it just bursting into flames on it's own. Deisel is very stable, it's actually hard to light on fire directly. Jet fuel..not so much.
Renewable/Sustainable. The long term viability of the fuel is also important. You could have the highest energy density, lowest cost to produce, and incredibly stable fuel...but if you run out in 2 years...who cares?
Another quality of a good fuel is that is does not produce CO2 when used. Coal, oil and gas are all carbon fuels, and burning carbon with oxygen from the air produces the gas carbon dioxide or CO2. When the chemical carbon-oxygen bonds are formed, a lot of heat energy is produced, which is how these fuels work.
Same carbon is safe to burn, that is carbon which was taken out of the atmosphere recentyl, let's say in the last 200 years. Therefore burning wood is OK because the trees took CO2 out of the air when growing. Ethanol made from crops is also good because growing the plants absorbs CO2 from the atmosphere.
There should be a small diagram on a sticker under the hood or in the engine compartment that shows the route of all emission related vacuum lines.
Yes. If you don't know what you are doing you might mess things up so that you won't be able to get the car to the shop. If you want to try, then this is the way to go about it. First thimg that you must do is to measure the resistance in that little chip in the upper part of the key, then you have to go to Radio Shack and buy a resistor with the same rating. The best thing to do is to solder the resistor in place but if you are not sure about that then make sure that you buy connectors, when you have all of the parts. You then remove the lower steering column cover you should then see two wires that are molded together with a plug about 18 inches from the cylinder where you insert the key (this is not actually the ignition switch). The wires that you are looking for are stiffer than the other wires under the dash if you have a problem finding the correct wires then you can go to the local public library and find the correct wiring diagrams (remember to take some change with you so you can make a copy of the correct page). I have 25 years experience in auto repair.
The pair of two wires under the column are often inside a thicker orange colored jacket that insulates them. Be sure to plan ahead so that the spot along the wires that you splice in the resistor will be in an area with the least amount of interference from other moving parts or your legs when getting in and out of car. If this delicate connection gets bumped or comes apart, your car wont start or wont stay running because the computer will shut down your injectors. A good rule to remember is to watch the yellow SECURITY light when you first turn on the ignition to start the car. It should go right back off. If it does not, you have to correct the problem and remember to wait 3 minutes between start attempts, even if you fixed the problem sooner.
All you have to do to save yourself some trouble is go to a car audio and security shop around your house and ask the main alarm installer there to draw you a diagram on how to bypass the key on your car. most likely he will be able to give you a copy of such diagram and he can also give you the part you will need to do the job. This will cost you no more the 30 bucks or so.
No it is not necessary to remove the axle nut in order to remove the front caliper. Once you remove the caliper the rotor should come off.
The fuel filter on all 4.6 deville is located on the drivers side bottom UNDER the car right in front of the rear wheel right under the rear passanger door. First remove the positive battery cable next remove the cover it' that big silver plastic cover that says Cadillac it has like 6 black plastic acorn shaped nuts. next in front of you on the drivers side you are going to see a black steel pipe this is the fuel rail conected to the fuel rail is a valve like the kind on your tires to inflate them you have to relieve the built up gasoline that is in the line because if you don't when you try to remove your filter the preasure in the line is going to spray you with gas all over your face it happens remember its a fuel injected car every time you turn the key the pump builds preassure in the line use a tire gauge or small screw driver also put a rag under the valve this will keep gas from going all over the place after there is no preassure you are ready to start. ok now The fuel filter has a soldered nut this wont move so all you have to do is put a wrench on it and the fuel line has another nut this one does turn so put a wrench on this one and holding on to the wrench that is soldered to the body of the fuel filter turn the one connected to the fuel line COUNTER CLOCKWISE the nut connected to the fuel line sometimes gets rusted so WD-40 prior to starting the removal or some other type of rust loosener might help. the other line just has a clip. press the clip and twist and pull the filter off. To get a better idea look at your new filter and it will all seem clear
Follow the fuel line from the tank to the engine and you will find the filter. You need special tools available cheaply from the parts store.
two wrenches turn fitting slightly till gas starts to drip let set till pressure is off remove and replace in 10 mins
If it is carbureted and probably a V8 there is no fuel pump relay. the fuel pump is mechanicly driven and it is located on the front of the block on the passenger side.
Possibly the Oxygen sensor needs replacing as the sympton you describe is usually what happens when the O2 sensor malfunctions
I just had the same problem with my '92. Had the Oxygen (MAP) sensor changed, and it is running great. Even getting better gas mileage.
the fuel pump harness, tends to melt, even though it is in the fuel, this is so common, after a new fuel pump, my car fltwd brghm, started dieing out for no reason, well it took a long time to find the problem, i learned it is a common prob,
i have a 95 sedan deville 4.9L and my car keeps on cuting off. Also, sometime it shuts off while driving and wont turn on until a few hours have passed by. I changed the fuel pump and fixed this problem temporarily.
Clean out your Throttle body and it will quit. Get some good carb cleaner spray, spray in the t- body and stick your fingers in there with a good rag and wipe out the carbon that is built up inside it. Let someone press down the accelerator to open the t-body up while you are cleaning it. The start the car and spray some in the t-body while it is running and stop using cheap gas.
Rear fuse box, under back seat.
1. Turn ignition switch to the ON position. Do NOT start the engine.
2. Simultaneously push and hold the OFF and WARMER buttons on your Electronic Climate Control panel for 3 seconds and then release them and while watching, you'll see your fuel data display change.
3. On your fuel data display, you will see LETTERS & NUMBERS displayed. Be prepared to write them down. As they run through fairly quickly, I suggest making a column list ahead of time on a piece of paper. Heading each of the four columns in order with these codes, EE And E And FF And F . Then as these codes flash, write down the number displayed under each of these coresponding codes numberThen when it stop's at .7.0 the code's are done.4. Turn ignition switch OFF.Now once you have the error codes, the answer to your question maybe at your finger tips.Good Luck
Ask JackNewCheck that none of the wires are touching the exhaust manifold, you can use tie straps to tie the cables so that they are not touching or near an extremely hot surface. You can burn up a wire and cause SERIOUS engine damage, if its been goin on for 2 weeks or so get your front motor mounts checked out, theres a possibility it may have cracked.
Did you change the rotor button as well? This problem your describing really needs to be described in much more detail as to how and when this miss started the more information you can provide is the easiest way for others to understand your situation. , EzForJesus
Is it possible that you inadvertantly tossed out the grounding strap when you replaced the cap? That might be your problem...I would just hit a junk yard and grab another one. It's a cheap way (about $5) to see if that troubleshooting works. If not...the mid to late 80's and newer are known for electrical frustrations with that computerized stuff. Good luck!
You might want to check the timing. I'm not sure how to adjust it but you definitely need to see where it's at. Also how many miles are on it? If it is a lot the timing chain may have stretched and may need replacing.
Make sure that the wires are properly routed to the right cylinders. Also make sure that the wire snaps into place when connecting them both to the spark plugs and the distributor cap. If a wire is not properly seated to the plug or to the distributor cap the cylinder that the wire goes to can fail to fire properly. Believe it or not the voltage that needs to go across the tip of the spark plug is aroung 16k volts, not a whole lot of amperage but it insists it get plenty of volts. Improperly connected wires can realy play havoc with the way the engine runs.
1. electrical short 2. bad switch 3. dead motorAnswer
More than likely it's a bad motor. Cadillac revised this version with more heat tolerable one on later models. I just replaced mine with the new version and it works great.. a little tricky to remove, but well worth doing yourself.
Unplug the switch from the blow motor and look at the connections. They tend to fry on the 95-97 cadillacs. There are three prons in that plug and one of them are not getting a good conection. It might solve your problem.
My mechanic found a bad ground wire that attaches behind the alternator. The motor plug had been fried, trying to make the ground through it. It also cured my cruise control problem.
I have a 1979 Cadillac DeVille and no air was coming out of the vents forcefully. I checked the connection to the Climate Control Switch (the on and off control for Heat/AC & Fan speed) and found a loose connection in the wiring that sends Signals for the Climate Control as it was called back then.
Hey Oscar- this happened to me too, I replaced the oil sending unit on the bottom of the engine just behind the passenger front wheel but behind the engine. This will fix it.
yes it can on short trips :a car needs at least an hour running to burn off the condensation in crankcase alone
where is the brake release on Cadillac Seville 1993
In most cases it is the BCM, located directly behind the glove box, mounted up high and horizontal. It is metal and looks just like many other GM car computers of the early 80's to mid 90's. In all my experience working on these cars, only once have I seen the problem caused by the Fuel Data panel. The BCM for the 1992 is same as 91-93. The 89 has a different service number.
== == == == I am going through the same problem with a 1989 Deville. I replaced the Fuel Data Center and the Sending unit in the tank and the tank itself. Now I am going to replace the BCM ( body control module) Some times the data center is perfectly normal next time There is just a "d" displayed. Will update you on my next step!
Red and black wires are +12- volt, jumper the gray wire to ground to test.
It isn't very hard but you need instruction. Go to Auto Zone and get a shop manual on your car for about $18 and it should have pictures and everything.
You'll need metric wrenches/sockets and 3/8 torx bit set.
1. drain coolant
2. with the drive belt still on, remove the 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the water pump. If the pulley rotates while trying to remove the bolts have a friend use a 1/2 rachet on the belt tensioner to put more tension on the belt so that way you can remove it.
3. take a 1/2 rachet or breaker bar and insert it into the belt tensioner and pull towards the front of the car releasing the tension on the belt allowing you to remove the belt.
4. Remove the pulley and be prepared to get fustrated. there are 10+ bolts/nuts and 2-3 torx bit bolts. The fun part is removing them. There is not alot of torque on these bolts so breaking them loose is not an issue. its not really a problem its more of a hassle. This is where a geared wrench would be real nice. Space is really the issue when you get to the bolts toward the rear, once you get all the bolts just pry the water pump off.
5. clean up any gasket material off the engine block and clean all the threads on the bolts.
6. put a small bead of silicone(rtv) on the both sides of the gasket(although not really necessary) then put water pump/gasket on the block and put all the bolts back in.
7. you should be able to tighten them as much as you can but remember there is not much torque needed, make sure to over all the bolts.
8. put the pully back on and tighten the pulley bolts and put the belt back on and tighten the pulley bolts again.
9. fill up on coolant
Here's more input from another FAQ Farmer:
Use high tack instead of silicone. Its much cleaner and goes on more evenly.
unfortunately yes you do. j to the izzo
the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy There is a diagram above the passenger front tire under the hood that shows you the routing direction for the serpentine belt. Clean it off so you can read it. You will need a 1/2 drive wrench to loosen slack on wheel tension assembly. mine didn't match the diagram under the hood exactly...one of the pullies was in the wrong place in the diagram..and it made the belt too big...i unfortunately didn't get the chance to take it off myself as the belt broke due to a bad idler pully. the correct path is (from top right clockwise)over the poer steering pump..straight down and under the compressor..back up and over the water pump..back down under the egine pully, up and aorund the right side of the idler pully...up and over the top left pully...then under the adjuster pully. if you stick a 1/2 drive in the square hole in the adjust pully arm..and pull it up and toawrad the front of the engine...it makes it easy to put the belt on...i put mine over the power steering pully last...as it's easiest for me. this is for devilles with 4.9 liter
Hey Judy==The problem can be in the relay, motor or control pannel and it will take someone with a good dit of know how torepair it of it is anyhting other than a fuse. Check ALL of the fuses. GoodluckJoeAnswerIf I'm understanding your question, you're only pumping out heat. If that's the case, then there's a mixing chamber (for lack of a better word that's what I'm calling it) under the glove-box. There's a rod that controls a valve in the chamber that determines how much hot and cold air is mixed to create the appropriate temperature inside the car. On mine, the rod became disconnected when I ran over a speed bump to fast. All I had to do was put it back in place and it worked fine. That would be the first thing I'd check.
D@mn shame I didn't find that out until after it got cold again. ;-)
Good luck.AnswerI have a 1996 DeVille that just had this problem. The cause of no air flow from the fan (heat or A/C) was caused by a blower moter failure. The blower moter is located on the firewall behind the engine up at the spark plug wire height. Replacing this motor is expensive and hard to do. But not impossible. It took me 6 hours and a little help from a neighbor. You first need to purchase a new blower motor. It's expensive at about $400. You need to loosen all the engine mounts and pry the motor forward to give clearance to the motor housing. This requires a lot of strength and a good prybar. Use wooden block wedges to hold the motor forward while you work. Remove the old blower motor and insall the new one. (Careful not to damage the squirel cage while installing it or you are back to the parts place to buy a new one.)Connect the motor and test it. Release and remount the engine. AnswerMy 2 cents:
Well I finally got it after many cuts and scrapes on my hands (never loan out your tools) trying the rocking engine and forcefull persuasion method "didn't" work, I finally borrowed a neighbors jack (did I just say something about loaning tools?) dropped the two sub-frame bolts and "presto" went in slicker than vasoline and ......well you get the point.....for me anyway, the subframe was the way to go, could probally do it in less than an hour and a half now. Just to review how I did it:1. Place car on car ramps for easy access to subframe.2. Disconnect battery3. Remove coil pack,last 2 spark pug wires closest to the blower(cover holes with clean cloth),and black vacum assisted module(don't know what it's called but didn't want to break it,held in with one bolt)4. I then removed the 2 ends of the "dogbones" connected to the engine.5. Now place jack under front of subframe and loosen the 2 bolts on both sides about 2 inches, ( no need to completely remove). and allow to lower.6. The old blower has three screws and one plug, should come right out no problem-remove and replace-just don't forget to add the new heat shield like me!Reverse process to put it all back together, don't forget any wire you may have disconnected on coil pack, vacum whatever may have helped you get more room. This is just what I did for a "99" DeVille. Your results may vary and I know there is similar info in other threads but every little bit helps and like stated in other posts make sure it is the motor 1st.Total Cost: $238.00+ tax (Advance Auto) About 3 hours if you don't know what your doing, and various cuts and scrapes. Good Luck. Bob TAnswerI just replaced mine and it was not too bad. Go to www.rock-auto.com for a A/C Delco replacement. I think mine was $180. You should not have to pry the engine if you do a few simple things first. Remove the strut-to-strut brace that crosses the engine. Then uplug any electrical connectors, including the fan's, that are in the way of the blower motor on the firewall and tuck them down out of the way next to the engine. Look at the firewall just above and all around the blower motor. It should all be made of a rubbery material. Look at the firewall just above the motor and you will see writing that is in raised letters showing a "cut line". This is where you need to cut the rubber firewall material from the motor to the farthest point towards the firewall. I actually removed the bolts from my motor first and let it sort of hang there while I cut this material. After cutting the material, fold it up and you will see a bolt that holds a plastic cover onto the firewall and forms part of the rounded shape above the squirrel cage fan. Remove this bolt and the plastic cover (it's about 3 x 5 inches)and simply lift the motor and fan assembly out. This will take a little doing but it is possible after you find the correct position and hold back the remaining rubber you just cut. Installation is just the reverse.
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