Yes they can. You have to use 25 series tires so that they do not rub.
Most flashers and or fuses are located on or near the fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side. , EzForJesus
PS the flasher itself may act as a fuse or the fuse may be intergrated to interact with other components as well. If your fuse panel is not marked take them out and check them one at a time and put them back making sure not to put the wrong fuse in another plug or socket.
This can be found in your owners manual. If you do not have one, I suggest you get one at a Salvage yard or order one from the dealer. 45 litres or 11.9 US gallons.
Most flashers are mounted on or near the fuse panel under the dash. However if you still can't find the flasher you can call any auto repair shop or Cadillac dealer and ask for this type of info. , EzForJesus On the 97 has 2 fuse panels, one under the hood on the driver's side and the other is attached to the rear of the back seat on the drivers side. I don't think the flasher is located by either.
On my 1996 DeVille, the flasher is a 3 prong, square unit that is located just above the emergency break pedal on the inside face of the lower dash panel. To replace this flasher you should start by removing the 2, 9/32" bolt head retaining screws holding the black access panel just above the break pedal. Lay down on your back and look up inside the dash. You may find the round hazard flasher high just above your head, this is not it. Stick you hand up along the panel in front of the emergency break pedal. Locate with your hand a 2 inch long square relay box and move it to unhook it from it's clip. (If the flasher is the factory flasher it will have a metal clip retaining it under the dash. Your new part will not have this clip.) Route the old flasher and wire down so that it hangs from under the dash. Now you can see it and disconnect it. There are multiple connectors, but only three of them line-up and actually have metal receptors inside the socket. Take note of the removal of the flasher so you are not confused during reinstallation. I think the other connectors are for additional features not needed in the US. Take the part to the parts store or just replace with new one. Relocate the flasher safely up in the dash in relatively the same place and make sure it won't move around. return the black panel to its position above the break pedal and replace the 2, 9/32" retaining screws.
This is a start but beyond this get your wallet out. The ABS and Traction Control are an integrated unit, ie: either could be at fault. First place to look is the wheel sensors, take one wheel off at a time and in behind on the back side of the hub assembly you will see an electrical connector with two wires going into it. Unsnap the connector and measure the resistance across the (wheel side) of the plug with your digital meter - set meter to ohms - mine were about 1.110 to 1.052 on the 2K ohms scale. What the actual reading should be I dont know but you can get a good idea if one is bad by comparing the measurements from all four wheels. Obviously a reading on one well above or below the others is a good indication of a bad sensor. The other check to do on each sensor is to check that the sensor is outputting. Connect your leads across the (wheel side) of the plug again and set your meter to AC volts on the lowest scale. Now put your wheel back on with a couple of nuts hand tight and spin the wheel while watching the meter. Mine showed about 0.40 volts turning as fast as I could - the voltage will vary the faster you turn. If you have no AC volts on one then take the brake caliper off and the rotor and inspect / clean the sensor and pulse mechanism from the inside & try again. Next - *switch on your ignition* & connect your meter across the (CAR SIDE) of the plug and switch to DC volts on say the 20 volt range - the reading on mine was about 4.7 volts and varied about 0.2 between all readings. (DO NOT SHORT OUT THESE BY ACCIDENT - GO SLOW USE EXTREME CARE) Again I do not know the actual spec but a reading on one greatly different from the others is a good indicator that something is wrong with the ABS module itself or the wiring leading back to it. Follow each line and check all plugs found. On the rear wheels the right and left sensors converge into a four wire plug fastned to a cross member about mid point. You can actually do all your checks here for the rear wheels without taking the wheels off if you want. The front is impossible to follow any distance.
Note that the plugs Cadilac uses for this system is absolutely pathetic considering the extreme harshness of the environment being right at the wheels and inches from the ground. Stones sticks or ice could rip them right off the car and they are watertight plugs not waterproof. WHAT A CRUEL JOKE! GM Engineers are morons. Instal an expensive safety system to insure it will never work when you need it most - wet & snowing. In any case this is as far as I got, all my readings were similar and therefore my problem is (not likely) to be a sensor. I'll add to this as I (learn more) & work back toward the actual system.
Hey Randy==It is a bit of a job to change it and you have to raise the engine slightly. Get a manual on it from a parts store and it should have pictures and everything. GodluckJoe
Randy....I assume it is a 4.6 northstar and these are pretty easy with correct tool. The pump is on the rear(driver side) of engine toward the front. The airbox and intake tube are removed and you can now see clearly the thermostat /waterpump housing. Remove hoses and remove bolts from drive belt tensioner. Remove cover of housing.....I would replace thermostat at this time as well as chk. drive belt to replace if needed. With the cover off you can now see the impeller clearly. This is what is to be replaced and it requires a tool to turn it out of wedge flange as well as return new one to position with new O-ring in place. Your auto parts store may have one to loan or purchase. IT IS NEEDED to do this R&R correctly. Good luck*
I just changed mine on my 94 Deville and it was not too bad. It has the 4.9 liter. First, get a replacement pump. Please note the importance of not removing the two bolts holding the timing cover to the water pump inlet cover. They are to the right and below the pump. After draining the radiator, remove the strut-to-core support brace, the battery, and finally the coolant recovery tank. (note: horn has to be removed for the recovery tank to clear the A/C receiver/dryer) Then carefully feel around the pump and count all the fasteners. I actually layed the new pump in front of me while I worked. While the belt is still on the motor, loosen the 4 drive pulley bolts on the pump slightly but don't remove them yet. Now you can take note of the serpantine belt path and remove it from the car via a 1/2" drive ratchet on the tensioner. Next, remove the drive pulley you loosened earlier. Now remove all the bolts and nuts holding the pump on the timing cover. I believe I used a 1/4 drive 10mm, 15mm socket, and a T45 or T50 Torx wrench. After all are removed, carefully removed the pump via a putty scraper and a little force taking note not to damage the timing cover, as this will result in a leak. After removal, carefully clean the cover of any and all stuck gasket and wipe dry with a cloth. To prepare the new pump for installation, adhere the included gasket to the pump with liquid shellac gasket compound. This holds the gasket in place while you install the pump in the tight space. After coating the other side of the gasket and lining the pump up with the engine, start two bolts to hold it in place. Go ahead and force it in place and start and finger tighten all the remaining bolts and nots. Then torque in this sequence: Torx and 15mm headed bolts - 30ft lbs. The 7, 10 mm hex nuts - 5 ft lbs. The 7, hex head bolts - 5ft lbs. Next, install the pump pulley as tight as you can and then install the belt and final tighten the pullet bolts. All remaining steps are just the reverse order.
I would check under the hood if I were you. Just a suggestion.
a location I experienced (second author on a 1989 coupe de ville here) is one or some of the three relays a few inches from the battery connections and I heard there may be one near the glove box or fuses inside the car (I tapped on a stuck one of the three to get the cooling fan to go off)
First you have to evacuate and recover all contents in a/c system using EPA approved recovery system(s).[Please note however that if you are replacing the compressor you also need replace the accumulator,the reason being that the desicant bag in the accumulator is more than likely over saturated with freon]. Raise and support vehicle on jack stands.Disconnect negative battery cable and release tension on serpentine belt.Unplug electrical connector to compressor ,remove a/c lines from compressor;also disconnect lines and connectors from the accumulator.Remove compressor mounting bolts,while noting the locations of all bolts and/or brackets.Installation is the reverse of removal.Be sure before installing new unit to pour about half of the new pag oil into compressor and hand compressor clutch(not the pulley)about 10 full turns.After installing comp and accumulator evacuate(vacuum)system to remove any air or dust particles that may have gotten into system during installation[vacuum at least 30 min].Recharge system with specified amount of refrigerant and remaining pag oil.TWO NOTES OF CAUTION NEVER OPEN THE HIGH SIDE(SMALL HOSE)OF A/C SYSTEM BECAUSE OF EXTREMELY HIGH PRESSURE!!!ALSO MAKE SURE THAT YOU USE NEW O-RINGS WHERE APPLICABLE AND NEVER REMOVE A/C COMPONENTS FROM PACKAGING UNTIL YOUARE READY TO INSTALL BECAUSE OF THE RISK OF DIRT AND AIR CONTAMINATION!! I
First you have to evacuate and recover all contents in a/c system using EPA approved recovery system(s).[Please note however that if you are replacing the compressor you also need replace the accumulator,the reason being that the desicant bag in the accumulator is more than likely over saturated with freon]. Raise and support vehicle on jack stands.Disconnect negative battery cable and release tension on serpentine belt.Unplug electrical connector to compressor ,remove a/c lines from compressor;also disconnect lines and connectors from the accumulator.Remove compressor mounting bolts,while noting the locations of all bolts and/or brackets.Installation is the reverse of removal.Be sure before installing new unit to pour about half of the new pag oil into compressor and hand turn compressor clutch(not the pulley)about 10 full turns.After installing comp and accumulator evacuate(vacuum)system to remove any air or dust particles that may have gotten into system during installation[vacuum at least 30 min].Recharge system with specified amount of refrigerant and remaining pag oil.TWO NOTES OF CAUTION NEVER OPEN THE HIGH SIDE(SMALL HOSE)OF A/C SYSTEM BECAUSE OF EXTREMELY HIGH PRESSURE!!!ALSO MAKE SURE THAT YOU USE NEW O-RINGS WHERE APPLICABLE AND NEVER REMOVE A/C COMPONENTS FROM PACKAGING UNTIL YOUARE READY TO INSTALL BECAUSE OF THE RISK OF DIRT AND AIR CONTAMINATION!! I
DROP THE TWO FRONT CRADDLE BOLTS ,,,,,THE CRADDLE IS WHAT HOLD THE MOTOR IN THE CAR FROM THE UNDER SIDE,, THERE ARE 4 BUT DON`T DO THE BACK ONES AND IN SOME CASES THE L FRONT DON`T TAKE IT AQLL THE WAY OUT ,THE R FRONT SHOULD DROP DOWN FAR ENOUGH TO GET THE BOLTS EASY AND YES DO WHAT THE SAY ABOVE TO DO THE JOB RIGHT IF NOT YOU WILL BE DOING IT AGIN MAKE SURE YOU FLUSH ALL LINES AND THEY MAKE A AC FILTER THAT WORKS GREAT TO THAT INSTALLS EASY
hey, I'm not sure if this will help but i have a 1991 Cadi deville and it looks like you have to remove the door panal and unbolt the mirror and dissconect it, it should be the same, on pretty much all cars you have to remove the door panal to get to the mirror and it looks like Cadillac hasn't changed much on stuff like this, they just chaged the look and style of the door panal, any should be an easy fix but take your time and be easy with it, stuff can brake,good luck on your cadi, you out.
take the caliper off. use a wrenchor a special tool to twist.twist the caliper till it goes in,install pads,attach wheel then leave enine off till you pump the brakes hard then turn engine on
There are several fuse boxes on the Cadillac Allante. I know that, in particular, the 1993 Allante has a fuse box in the trunk, right next to the battery, underneath the ashtray assembly, and then one more in the engine compartment. For the one in the trunk-- lift the trunk. Facing the rear of the car, looking at the back window, move over to the right rear wall of the trunk and flip up the panel there. It is a carpeted panel that is not obvious. Shake that panel a bit and you will see that you can flip it up. I believe it has some Velcro tabs that keep it down. There is a fuse box sitting there inside the shell of the body once you open that flap. You won't miss it. For the one by the battery, which is located within a shelf behind the passenger seat---slide the carpeted shelfing facade towards the passenger's seat. There will be one electrical connection that goes to the speaker that is connected to that panel, so be careful not to pull it out too fast or hard. The panel is a little hard to slide, so patiently jiggle on it. I recommend you put a few fingers behind the back/end of the panel and push it towards your body. Once you remove that panel, you will see the fuse panel right next to the battery. For the fuse panel underneath the ashtray---carefull pry up on that assembly, which is by the gear shift. It is shaped like a box that just sits simply in that slot. Pull up and put to the side that ashtray assembly and look down. You will see a fuse panel just like the one in the trunk. The fuses in it and in the trunk are the very small type that are 10's, 20's, and 30's. For the fuse panel in the engine compartment, a fuse panel that looks similar to the one by the battery, go to the front of the car, open the hood, and look to the left and down. You will see a black box about 6" by 6". A flimsy cover covers this panel. Carefully pry up the taps that keep this cover down, and pull out the cover. There you will find larger fuses.
Those are the locations of the 4 fuse boxes on the 1993 Cadillac Allante. Good luck, and don't forget to consult the owner's manual to find out for which electrical function each single fuse serves. Again, care is important. The Allante, over all, is a fragile car--very fine but not tough, so don't pull or pry on things too hard. Feel free to consult me with any other questions about the Allante by writing me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I also highly recommend the services rendered by one Mr. Dick Hussey at AllanteSource. www.allantesource.com. If I can't help you, I know he and Ron at that shop can! Good luck!
I did it on my 95 cadillac deville(non concours type) Get a manual it gives you a good idea on how to do it. It takes a couple of hours. It is located behind the glove box which has to be removed. Access is from there and from below the dash, take care not to do any damage to the temp control linkage behind the glove box there is a rod that is held on by small plastic arms that can easily break. It is a little difficult to orient the core to come out around the frame of the dash but it does come out. Take care not to damage the new cores cooling fins as you install the new core. Good luck.
Hi,yes it works with Steering Wheel fluid.Some greetings from Germany
Under vehicle near fuel tank/rear wheel area. no its on the passenger side in front of passenger seating area. its a bit of a pain to get to because its on fire wall at passengers feet i know i spent to days looking for mine every one said tit was in the rear driver side that's not for caddy its true for Buicks also be careful of nylon full line not to kink it. I found out that the fuel filter is located on the rear Driver side. I just changed one out today on my sister's Cadillac. If you look under the car on the front rear wheel drivers side, you will see the fuel filter. You may have to look closely. It is somewhat tucked away to where I almost didn't see it. IMPORTANT! You will have to work quickly from getting the old fuel filter out and placing the new one in. Even though it has an electric fuel pump, gravity will still pull down the gas and will pour on the floor. It would be a good idea to have an oil pan or some type of pan close by to catch the gas if you don't want it on the ground.
On the 1990-1993 FRONT WHEEL DRIVE models it is actually located under the passenger side of dash. It is VERY WELL HIDDEN directly on the back side of the long vertical relay panel. In between the rows of identical square relays there will be 2 T-15 star (TORX) screws. Once they are removed the relay panel (also containing a few low amp fuses) can be swung out of the way. There will be two more screws (comb 7mm or t-15) that hold the retainer for the relay panel. They screw into the passenger side dash end. Once its loose you can unplug the PassKey module. The Deville did not start putting modules like this in the trunk until the 94-99 body style.
== == == == I think that the module is behind the rear seat in the trunk. You have to open the trunk and pull down the panel that covers the seat back. there are about 9 different things in that area.
There are no spark plug wires on the 2000-up Northstar engines. They use coil on plug design. First remove the engine service cover.(The Pretty plastic peice that has the Cadillac symbol on it) Then disconnect the coil connector which sits to the right of the coil and should just snap off by hand. Next If you remove the screws that holds the coil pack (8 screws) to the top of the cam covers, you will see 4 black round rubber boots that sit on top of the plugs. Pull the boots free to expose the plugs. The tops of the spark plugs sit directly underneath.
You will need the tool to retract the calipers. The piston in the rear calipers have to be turned clockwise as you compress them back in.
Open hood . Disconnect blower module located near blower fan. Disconnect, if blower shuts off, repalce module
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/9d/16/0900823d80159d16.jsp NO pic but very detailed instructions on this link. Try searching for "Cadillac window motor + install" in your browser. May take a bit but I think you can find it somewhere. Maybe owners clubs.....
there are little hidden screms like under the little ash trays and behind the lights you gotta pop those off and there should be screws there
I don't know the date of your question and I am sorry if it is too late. This is really easy. The switch is called a "turn signal switch assebly" which is an interesting name since it does not have the turn signal switch inside it and is simply located mechanically on the turnsignal switch. You will see a small panel located behind the turn signal switch assembly and under the tilt control. You can pop this off using your hands or use a small screw driver if you need to. you will see the small wireing harness behind here and you can see where there is a connector. You need to diconnect this first so pull on it to separate it from the post and diconnect the wire connector. Then turn the base of the swtch assembly toward you and pull. It will disengage the plastic part. then rotate the metal rod until it pulls out also. You will have to figid with it a bit, but this is how it is done.
I had my 1991 sedan deville towed the other night, and the tow truck driver told me that the cars climate control is the cars computer also, said you need to push those buttons in a certain sequence, or a couple at the same time, he just didnt know what to push. i checked that with Cadillac and they agreed, they just didnt know how to do it either, go figure. ive also heard disconecting the negative terminal of your battery then reconecting a few seconds after will do the trick. I also read in a manual (i havnt been able to find since) that reseting the computer is done by idleing the car for a certain period of time in park and then in drive while the climate control is set to "off". when/if i find that again i will put it in. a little.
ok found it. If you lose battery power or the battery is disconecte, your cars computer must be programmed. it takes just over 20 minutes to do it.
If you want to do it your self, here's how:
That is from the manual to my 1991 caddy deville. I guess disconnect your battery then follow those steps. Good luck
Actually most Cadillacs use the same method to reset the ECM and the BCM. Assuming that the the problem that caused the check engine light to come on is not a hard fault. With the engine off and the ignition switch (the key) turned to run go to the climate control buttons and press the 'OFF' and 'Warmer' button and the same time until you see the fuel control panel change to all 8s then let go of the climate control buttons. The fuel panel will give a readout of all the failure codes recorded up to the last 50 times. If the cause of a failure code has been resolved turn the ignition switch off then turn it back on to 'run' then while holding the 'Off' button on the control panel press on the 'HI FAN' button on the climate control panel at the same time. Hold the two buttons for about 5 seconds. Turn the ignition switch off for a few seconds and then start the engine again. Allow the enging to reach normal operating temperature or drive it about 4 or 5 miles which will cause the engine to reach normal operating temperature quicker. Observe the check engine light to see if it illumintes again. There are many operational checks that can be made through these control panels both with the engine off and while running. It is best to have the manufacturers shop service manual to do many of these tests properly. Cadillac shop service manuals from the dealer will cost around $100.00. You can often get the manual used through eBay or some other source for half price or less.
Get manual from the parts store or from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM
to remove the water pump on the 94 caddy sedan deville with the 4.9 engine first remove the round brace that runs over the top of the battery---then remove the battery and the windshield washer revivor take a pad of paper and draw a picture of how the belt goes on----very important that you get this correct. then remove the belt by releasing the pressure with 1/2" breaker bar--there is a square hole for it on the tension adjuster---at this point you really should power wash the area very well----it makes it a lot easier job.you may have had to loosen the bolts on your water pump pulley now or prior to removing the belt---mine was broken off ---now remove all of the bolts and burrsaround the outside of the pump---there are also some bigger burrs in the middle of the pump ---check very carefully to be sure you have them all out---now with a couple of pry bars gently pry on the pump watching closely to be sure that you have all of the bolts out now spend whatever time it takes to clean very well the engine ---much more area than you think you need to I used ametal scraper for the bigger stuff and finished with a razor blade---now (I used the blue permatex gasket maker) apply the material to your water pump and put the gasket on it----coat the engine with the same material and slide the water pump into place---holding it in place start (not tighten) all your bolts---you may have to use a small punch to align the gasket ---now gently tighten all of your bolts in secquence so as not to get too much pressure on any one bolt--you really should have the torque setting and use a torque wrench at this time---now install the pulley--also should be torqued.....install your belt... and replace your wasaher rev. and battery replace the brace and now wait whatever time your gasket material says to wait for it to setup----mine was quite a few hours...so I just waited until the next evening and refilled..ran it refilled and watched for leaks ......using surgical gloves helps to keep you cleaner and really arn't to bad to work in I went through about 6 pair on that job and actually got it all done in one evening and refilled it the next nite
Exactly , two small screws, if these are already out , you may have to kick the thing to get it to break free. roto hammer or impact driver. this thing turns out the screw when you hit it with a hammer. it may be your best friend
civic rotors are attached by two small screws in the brake disk.... these are most easily removed with a roto hammer (check the autoparts store) or your local tool truck, they will most likely have one
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Asked By Wiki User