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Get your tires balanced and/or check the lug nuts.

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Tires out of balance

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White smoke = Coolant entering the combustion chamber. STOP driving this car until this is repaired or you will destroy this engine.

Black Smoke = Overly rich fuel/air mixture. Too much fuel not enough air. STOP driving until this is repaired or you will ruin the converter and O2 sensor and possible do other damage.

Blue Smoke = Engine is burning oil. Worn rings is normally the cause.

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Disconnect negative battery cable, remove coolant overflow tank, unbolt alternator and place it forward of the front valve cover,there are two studs with nuts and one bolt holding the steering pump to the engine.In order to get to the bolt you must first unbolt and remove the serpentine belt tensioner because the bolt is behind and under it. Suggest the idler pully be removed for better access to everything. Once the idler and tensioner are removed, the PS pump PULLEY must be removed or broken off (its made of plastic) OR remove the two nuts from the studs and remove the bolt that was hidden by the tensioner. Slide the pump assembly forward so that you can access the studs with vice grips and remove them this way OR take two nuts that are the correct size for the studs,tighten them against each other and rotate the inner nut counterclockwise til the stud is out....the fun part is trying to get an open end wrench in there....I recommend vice grip from above. The studs have to come out if you desire to remove the pump intact with the pulley attached, otherwise it will not have any clearance to come out. A new pulley costs $9.95 at advance auto, power steering pump about $45 same place. Plastic pulley must be pressed on and cannot be done with the bolt, washer and nut supplied with the pulley unless you lube the Hell out of the pulley, break a coupleof pulleys because the instructions are Crap. Take the works to an auto machine shop and let them press it on. Best way to get the pulley off the old pump is by breaking the thing off with a hammer so you have it free of the mount and with you for exchange (core charge is $35). The tool recommeded for removing the old pulley is a hair puller and all you will do is strip the threads in the pulley without budging the plastic piece of junk.Good luck, it took me two pulleys and lots of cussing to learn what I have written here. PS, don't forget to change the $18 power steering pump filter(FOR REAL)on the drivers side clipped to the frame.

a good book is haynes auto repair for a mercury

first you remove the pulley with a pulley removel tool you should be able to rent one from parts store.then remove lines,then pump

I am replacing mine today..the pump itself will come with all the information you need except the fact that you need a special puller to remove the power steering pully. I tryed the conventional three prong puller and found the 4" is to big to get in there to grab thre front of the pully due to the low placement and the body and air conditioner lines in the way..I am on my way back to the auto parts store to see if I can purchase the right puller..back later with price and availability and how it worked out...good luck terry

Check out this link:

http://www.autozone.com/AZ/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/13/49/0900823d800c1349/repairInfoPages.htm

-Mitch

you need to purchase a puller set.

>>

I found some instructions in a "Haynes Repair Manual" for the Taurus and Sable. The manuals are available at auto parts stores and in many public libraries.

I did not need to buy the puller set. The Auto Zone in my neighborhood offers free tool rental, and they had the puller set that I needed. They asked for a deposit when I picked up the tools, and refunded the full deposit when I returned the tools.

same in my town, as the one above, about the renting of tools. auto zone , I've noticed , is the best place and one you can trust more than most stores, for tool rentals. do NOT , however, do it *redneck style* like my husband does, because we never have the $50 plus for the rental in between pay periods, by hammering it off. it is BAD!when i found out how he always got them off wihtout a *pulley puller* set, i asked him how he did it without messing it up. he responded, "VERY CAREFULLY!" my mother-in-laws b/f was not so careful, and it eventually costed 300 dollars in parts alone and 6 months worth of frustration fixing the botched job, just so we could replace the water pump because someone welded the pulley onto the pump to make it stay on, which is NOT by ANY means, exceptable on ANY car. it causes far more problems than the imediate fix. If not taken off properly, you can not put it back on and have it stay there. it will fly off and shred your belt. my sister went through 3 belts before i found out what they did and theyre 25 a peice.

you need a special tool. puller / installer. rent it at Auto Zone for +/- $35

Go to a automotive supply store and ask for a Haines auto repair manual for your make year and model of car. It will show you, step by step how to do any repair to that particular car, with photos and a complete description of how to take it apart and put it back together again.

The best few dollars that you will ever spend.

you need a power steering pump pulley puller and installer kit. go to your local parts store. theyll have one.

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This one is fairly simple. Almost 90 % of the time it is because the shock absorbers are worn out, allowing the coil springs to oscillate roughly and hit the chassis of your vehicle.

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The answer is: any force equal to or greater than the forward momentum of the truck. So many variables enter into calculating a precise measurement of force needed to stop a vehicle - mass of the vehicle, conditions of friction and gravity - is the truck going uphill or downhill, or on a flat surface? Is the road slippery, smooth or rough?

Let's assume that normal conditions apply: a truck weighing 10,000 Kg traveling at an acceleration rate of 5m/s² along a flat smooth surface. Using Newton's second Law of Motion, expressed as a formula F=ma, where F is the Net Force (the sum of all forces acting on an object) in Newtons, m is the mass of the truck, and a is its acceleration rate, assumed here to be 5m/s². By multiplying the mass times acceleration, we see that a whopping 50,000 Newtons would be required to stop this truck. By comparison, the pull of gravity on a person of average weight (72 Kg, or 160 lb) is measured at 686 Newtons. So depending on the type of truck, weather conditions, wind speed, direction of the truck, and effect of gravity and friction (all included in net force, or Newtons) you can see that the actual Force, expressed as N, is a variable.

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You can have worn universal joints, wear or low oil in transfer case or differential(s),transmission low on fluid or needs band adjustment. Seems to be one of these problems along drive train.

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Then you may have a bent wheel, worn or loose wheel bearing, or steering or suspension parts worn. Have everything inspected.

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Yes, the air can leak out of the crack.

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2 minutes

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Carburetors are fairly simple parts to rebuild, therefore going out and spending over 150.00 is not something I would recommend. The only way I would actually replace one is if one of the sections is warped and leaking fuel, or the carburetor has caught fire. Rebuild kits usually cost between 20.00 and 75.00. If you are having an issue with fuel delivery, inside the carburetor. You may look at replacing the accelerator plump diaphragm or the blowout valve on the carburetor, also the fuel filter. If you have a Carter, or a Chrysler Carburetor, the accelerator pump is internal, just rebuild it.

Thank You Good Question,

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Bad tires and bad alignment can cause the car to shake at certain speeds.

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More than likely your tires need balanced. or you have a cord busted in a tire. Bent rim could cause it, or sometimes even just some mud caked to the back of a rim could throw it out of balance

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Reasons for the shaking could be:

If the temperature has been below freezing, there could be TIRE STOP LEAK , that has gone unnoticed, and now caused a major imbalance of a tire .

Bent rim, tie rod loose, sticking brake calipers. My first guess is always tire balance, but if not that -- those would be my next guesses.

Get your wheel struts checked and replaced if necessary...my car did that and both my front struts were warn out

The wheel bearings may also be going bad in the front end. Bad wheel bearings will cause vibration in the engine compartment, leading to a rougher ride, and usually a loud rubbing noise. Unrepaired, bad bearings will eventually cause your wheel to separate from the axle. If this should happen at high speed... the axle will dig down into the concrete and send the car airborne.

There are few issues related to such a problem. A very common problem is faulty tires or incorrect wheel balance of the front tires. Check for a bulge or a wear on the tires. If all is ok..get a mechanic to check your wheel bearings. Check for a broken strut assembly or shock absorber. Check for tire rod bushings and the balance rod. Check complete front suspension.

IF SHAKING IS SEMI-VIOLENT OR ENOUGH TO CAUSE YOU TO SLOW DOWN TO LOWER SPEEDS TO REGAIN STABILITY--> MAYBE DROP PIT ARM, STEERING STABILIZER OR TRACK BAR.

The rotors on larger vehicles that are composite become out of balance and need replacing or cutting.

rattle and shake at speed is 99% of the time attributed to needing all wheels balanced. other problems listed above will happen at all speeds

I was expereincing shakes and rattle at 80-100 km/h speed, however, problem brewed and it mild vibration starts even at around 40km/h. Problem traced was bad inner axel. After changing the axel it feels like car is new born.

If it snowed recently, and the problem did not exist before the snowstorm, there may be frozen snow/ice stuck to one or more wheels, causing imbalance. Take the care to a self-serve car wash and spray the wheels from underneath the car and in the wheel wells.

I am having the same problem and I came to the conclusion that the U Joints are going bad.

It is possible that something is simply loose and the speed combined with air downforce is making it rattle against the metal. For example, in my 1988 z24 the locks used to rattle against the metal of the door at presicely 57mph.

FOR THOSE WITH 2007-2009 PONTIAC G6 vehicles.

I came to Wiki because my car was shaking between 55-60MPH. I came here to look for potential problems...but my car is a 2007 and fairly new and I had no idea why in the world it would be doing that. Checked air pressure - good to go. Just had new high performance tires put on in June (so they were mounted, balanced, etc). However, with the high performance lower tires...if you live in a state where it snows (I live in MN), the rims and wheel wells for those cars and those tires--pack snow really hard. We spent $7.00 at a car wash doing a high pressure hot water car wash to clean out the wheel wells -guess what? NO ISSUES AT ALL-went to 75MPH no problem-not even a HINT of a shake. So, I had cancelled my appt at the dealership. IF you have this type of car, or ones with high performance tires---do what I did and it may alleviate the problem. Might work for other vehicles-but I can only speak for mine.

I have 01 Civic,. I am changing Shocks & Struts,. mechanic said that cause the problem.

I have a 97 Chrysler Sebring and the recommendation to take the car to the car wash worked out great for me. After a heavy snowfall in Chicago I shoveled out my car out of snow and it was vibrating horribly between 50-65mph. I followed the advise and to it to a car-wash with hot water and asked them to specifically ensure that my wheel wells are properly de-iced. The car was a blaze after that. So if you live in a cold place, try this before you try anything else.

Looks like you have a leaky spark tube camshaft flywheel that's gunna ruin your piston lugnut better buy a new head gasket driveshaft

Your tires could be bad.

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If it is vibrating at speed you have either a tire out of balance, bent wheel, defective tire with broken belt, loose wheel, defective wheel bearing, bent driveshaft, or bad CV joint. If it is vibrating at idle or slow speed, you have either a cylinder miss, broken motor mount, or vacuum leak.

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rock auto has the cheapest parts and all are name brand.

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Check all linkage for wear or play,jack under each a-arm one at a time ,move tires left to right for linkage/ up and down for bearings & ball joints and cv axles if you get play or pop's and clicks have some one follow the noise. Shake's during braking, rotors are warped due to hot rotors hitting cold water puddles on the road. Shakes to the left or right,if the steering wheel shakes to the left put the left front tire on the right side, test drive if it starts shaking to the right that will be the bad tire,vise-versa if shakes to the right .Replace that tire and get a alignment check,steering wheel shakes are front tires,the whole car skaking is the rear tires.This is due to uneven wear on the tire the eye can't see. WORN CVC OR U-JOINTS, UNBALANCED TIRES( COULD BE CAUSED BY LOSS OF A WHEEL WEIGHT, MUD OR SNOW IN YOUR WHEEL), BENT RIM, ECT. If you have directional tires make sure they are on the right sides LOTS of THINGS; First define when it shakes and how it shakes. Tires at highway speed; tire balance / improper wear (may be alignment issue). I have had intermittent vibration from using a different tire on front. When Brakes are applied: front rotors warped (worst at higher speed)but I have found numerous steering linkage issues (vibration at slower / not all speeds). Steering Linkage- vibration when hitting bumps on highway: tire rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, panhard rod ends (if equiped), ball joints, could also be worn steering box (usually hard steering issues). There could be suspension issues like a damaged strut (not just worn-out). Checking: No engine, running get under front end and have someone turn steering wheel lightly back and forth, any joints should move in tandem (no looseness). You'll look for movement that is not consistent. Another way is to bottle jack under lower A arm on one side / get wheel off ground, grab wheel and move laterally back/forth from outside vehicle. There should be no play or noises when pulling hard. THEN put tire iron under wheel and pull up. Wheel should move vertically without shifting. This checks ball joint play. Look for inconsistent movement of wheel. Some have upper/lower ball joint, some have lower ball joint/strut. Sorry, does take some experience to know what is acceptable. If it bad problem it can be seen. Service manuals sometimes describe maximum movement for the technicians. Diagnois FIRST before replacing parts.

Often, this sort of an issue crops up when your wheels are inappropriately balanced, or the tires have worn unevenly. But sometimes loose bolts of the wheel or a distorted brake rotor could be the culprits. In case of a disfigured brake rotor consider replacement. The other issues can be taken care of by an expert. You can learn more about it Automotive-online.com

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Fords (and Mercury and Lincoln) are infamous for vacuum leaks. It is possible that you have a leaking vacuum hose, or a missing vacuum system cap, which would make a hissing noise if you open the hood with the vehicle running.

The problem could also be sensor related so find out if it is showing a MIL code and see which one it is, newer cars are made to self diagnose their problems, once you have that starting point you can make some educated guesses as to what to fix first.

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No! A track bar is just what it states, it holds the axle in line with the body or frame. A bad or worn out bar will make the car or truck feel very "loose" or unresponsive. The only thing to cause a "shake" is tire balance or a bent rim. A stutter on accell is a missfire. The two are not the same.............

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Not sure where your at but I'm in Northern BC Canada so we get a heck of a lot of snow. I find the best thing to do is just get a small hammer and tap the inside of your wheel-well hard enough to knock the ice loose but not hard enough to cause damage.

Try GENTLY hitting the fender just above the wheel. Hit it too hard, you'll have a dent. Keep tapping it, and the ice will break off.

When you have the snow and ice cleaned out, give the wheel wells a good spray of WD40. You will still get buildup, but it will 'release' much easier when you bump the fender above the wheel.

i am not sure where you are but i am in northern Michigan usa and we get a load of snow and ice so i see my fair share of build up in the wheel wells if you his the body of the car wont do all that much try finding a open car wash if that isn't a option try to find some one who has a heated garage you can put your car in long enuff to thaw if neither of those are a option take a pole about 3 feet in leingt and just use it as a ice scraper when i have to do it that way i use a base ball bad but don't hit the ice you could trash to body of your vehicle

Take it to a heated building and park it inside for 24 hours or so. It should be free of ice when you go back. Not always easy to find, though.. a storage place, a barn with a space heater, an automotive shop?

A small military-style shovel works fine for me.

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The most common cause is a tire out of balance. It can also be a bent wheel, defect in a tire, worn steering or suspension parts, bad wheel bearing, broken motor mount, or CV joint failing. Have your tires rotated and balanced and all steering and suspension parts inspected. If they find no problems then have it looked at more closely by a trusted mechanic.