When was the last time you had brake work done? It sounds like the brake rotors cannot dissipate the heat from the heavy braking. If they overheat they can temporarily warp until they cool back down. I see this typically on rotors that were machined (sometimes still within acceptable limits) or from poor quality rotors.
Check the tie rod ends for wear. Have a friend rock the steering wheel side to side in the center and listen for a thunking or slapping noise at the rear of the front tires. Jack up the car in front and rock the wheel side to side (hands at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) and check for looseness.
One or possibly both of the brake rotors are out of wack and you need to replace them. I had the same problem on my 97 accord. I replaced the passenger side rotor and car is running and braking just fine.
Warped rotors. Get them lathed (Sp?) and don't forget new pads. If you leave the old pads on they'll wear grooves into the new(er) rotors thus making their life shorter and the problem re-arising.
A garage that my cousin had taken his '94 Buick Century to listed that it needed front struts, upper strut mount plates and inner tie rods. But after seeing these other answers here and helpful answers in other auto forums while researching in the mid part of April, 2005, my suspicions were confirmed that the shaking-only-when-braking on his car was caused by front brake rotor warpage (Although, later on, he also started to notice that when he put one finger on the steering wheel while cruising without braking, there was a very slight vibratory movement of the steering wheel...which I had summed up to just commonly being the brake pads resting lightly against the rotors even when no pressure is applied since rotor calipers do not have any type of return spring which would pull the brakes away any further). So just recently (4-21-05), against the "professional's" conclusions and $500.00 estimate (who had listed almost everything else but rotors as the cause), I put on all new front rotors and brakes (a total of about $51.00) and the car then braked beautifully with no vibration whatsoever. Vullin
More details would help. Sounds to me like your engine is running with fouled plugs during idle. , EzForJesus
* If it is shaking and rattling check if the engine rocks back and forth when you put it in reverse and then into drive, if so your motor or transmission mounts are worn/broken. If your engine does not rock back and forth, drive around and check to see if there is considerabe loss of torque and horsepower, if so get a free OBD code scan (avail. at most auto part stores.) OBD can detect engine misfires and other problems that could cause shaking. It could also be a bad air filter, bad spark plugs, bad fuel injector, or a problem with the throttle body.
*I'm reading your question as the front end shakes WHILE DRIVING, but not vibrate at idle. Tires are the most common cause of this.
For a low speed shake:
Either a belt inside the tire fails, or there's some separation in the tread area, or there's a 'bubble' in the tire causing the condition. Sometimes, it's just lug nuts that are left loose. All these conditions are dangerous, as a blowout is usually the end result.
For a shake at high speeds:
Usually this is caused by tires being unbalanced. At certain speeds the shake really is noticeable. Rotating your tires from the front to rear will usually identify that problem. (An unbalanced tire in the rear bounces, but the suspension will usually minimize the feel inside the car.)
This may also be caused by severely worn components: ball joints, steering arm, tie rod and tie rod ends. If these components are bad enough to cause you to feel the vibration inside the car, it is too dangerous to drive at that point. Complete loss of control (one or both front wheels not responding to the steering) may result.
My guess would be a misfiring cylinder or worn engine mounts. A fouled plug or bad wire will obviously interfere with normal combustion, and this will cause the car to shake fairly violently and run very rough. Your cars onboard computer may detect the misfire and set the check engine light.
From personal experience, my Honda Civic '97 when I was about to get on the freeway all of a sudden it started to shake really badly. When I started to drive, it was fine. The check engine started flashing every few seconds so I pulled off the freeway to go to a parking lot. I had to stop at a light and again it started shaking violently. It was definitely not a normal engine vibration when sitting at idle. When I took it to the shop and they had looked at it, they said a plug on one of the cylinders had eroded. They explained that the reason why it started shaking was that it went to a 4 cylinder to a 3 cylinder vehicle. That was just my experience with a shaking engine at idle but I'm sure there could be a multitude of reasons on why a car would shake more than normal. .
Well if its an automatic, that's easy... I have this too. first answer this...
how fast are you going?
does it have overdrive (auto only)?
if manual what gear you get up to when this happens?
well if its auto, and your going fairly fast and suddenly let go of the gas... its going to change down quite quick due to gearbox design. This would give the sensation of the car braking...
if its a manual car, then you are most likely in too low a gear to start with, this is why we change down when we loose our brakes, speed reduction is effective immedeatly without brakes...it slows you down to save emergency speed...1 min or so.AnswerI am having a similar problem with my grand am! I have been told that it could be a motor mount AnswerMy 1993 Buick Skylark had the same problem last year-- if I took it above about 40mph after the engine was warmed up, every deceleration thereafter caused the car to shudder. After researching it a bit, I decided it was probably the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid in the automatic transmission, so I had it replaced and the problem disappeared. I've read that this is a somewhat common problem with Overdrive, which my car does not have, so apparently the problem doesn't play favorites.
Your wheels could be out of alignment; however, it is probably your wheels are out of balance. I would have this checked and repaired, if it is not fixed this will cause your tires too wear faster.
Worn Parts like a radius arm bushing , wheel bearings , or even upper or lower ball joints can cause a shaking in your front end.
Trouble code P0326 means:Knock sensor no.1 circuit,range or performance problem (bank 1 or single sensor)
then check wheel balance
It could be your alignment. If it's off it shakes.
If the vibration is from about 45 mph and faster the tires are out of balance or bad.
If its vibrating at a slower speed you have a bad suspension part and if it vibrates at idle you need a diagnostic and possibly a tune-up.
First check the balance of your tires. This is the cheapest scenario. Then the suspension and allignment.
you could also have a separated or broken belt in the tire
Did you strip the actual plug is rounded off or did you strip the plug threads? If you stripped the plug itself and can get to it use vise grips. If you cannot get to the plug then go to your local parts store and tell then what happened. I know Snap On makes a special socket to remove rounded off bolts and spark plugs. Now if you actually stripped the spark plug threads then you may be able to just chase the old threads with a tap and clean them up enough that you can insert a new plug. Use anti-sieze compound and do not over tighten. 13 ft/lbs and no more. If that is not possible you will have to purchase a Helicoil. You local parts store can sell you the correct size and tell you how to use it.
Water or air in your fuel line.Answer
spark plug wires usually or plugs but id say was the wires apso when it rains they act up also jim
check your fuel filter, if its your fuel pump you'll know soon enough.
There is a vacuum hose between the firewall and the back of the motor, it is formed with the 2 ends different diameters. The hose collapses when it is running which causes the engine to stall. I believe this is a dealer only item. Just replaced mine and the car runs fine now.
Take it to auto zone and have the codes read for free.
its just a vacuum hose probably. mine did it before too.
Autozone will not provide enough help.
Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.
Check that the Oxygen sensors are correctly installed and working. Also check with your ford dealership to see if your car is one of many that needs a new FUEL pump. Ford has a TSB on this and will replace it for free... I have a 2003 Focus SVT with all the same problems.
could be a PCV Valve. My 01' Ford Escort with similar engine needed that recently. Appox 5 dollars easy fix.
My 2000 Focus wagon had the exact same problem and I could hear vacuum sucking in the engine compartment. In the end it was two failures at once: 1) the PCV hose failure like everyone else, and 2) a broken white plastic vacuum cap on the intake manifold.
Some folks have luck simply replacing the odd-sized PCV hose with the Ford replacement, but I was not so lucky. In my case both ends of the PCV line (under the intake manifold and connected to the PCV valve) were bust. So, to replace the entire assembly I did the following:
I bought a "PCV elbow" (by Help! auto parts), hose clamps, 3 feet of 7/16" fuel line, and a replacement PCV valve all from Pep Boys. I bought a 1/2" brass hose connector from Lowe's. I connected the elbow to the fuel line with the brass connector and secured the PCV valve in the other end of the fuel line with a hose clamp. I removed the old hoses and PCV valve and replaced them with the new rig. I had to route the new hose around the engine block, but there was plenty of room.
I still had vacuum leaking and a really rough idle after replacing the PCV line. I found the source of the leak by using a length of hose as a stethoscope. It was a rotten, white plastic cap on the intake manifold. I bought a set of rubber vacuum plugs (by Help! auto parts) from Pep Boys and one was a perfect fit.
After both of these fixes the idle was back to where it was a couple of years ago. Good luck!
the vaccume hose is broken and is over heating you need to replace it for only $500:if nothing has helped so far, check your egr valve as it probably just needs a good cleanin'. egr stands for exhaust gas recirculation and is usually located between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. it gives metered, pre-heated air from the exhaust to the carburetor and generally has carbon deposits on it. it sounds like yours has an abundance of carbon in the passage causing the car to die when your approaching a stop sign or something.
The lug nuts weren't tightened.
In many cases the issue is with an out of balance tire, you can have them all balanced fairly cheaply and a rotation is probably in order, I believe it's all in the same price, after that the alignment could be the cause, if the wheels are not straight forward they will shake, and newer cars need 4 wheel alignment, after that it could be your engine timing or a bad engine support.,
It could be your bushings.
what work was done to it . does the jerking stop after the engine is warm I have a 1992 K1500 that I have done much work on through the years including pulling the engine and reinstalling it after it was rebuilt (Cracked Head). Anyway, I would suggest that you look at the Throttle Position Sensor (see explanation below). When the TPS is functioning it will increase the idle speed when the engine is cold (especially when the engine starts). You will notice it more on a cold morning that the engine idles a lot fast right after it is started but slows down a few minutes later to the normal speed of around 1000 RPMs. If this sensor is bad, the engine can idle too slow during cold times and die when you take you foot off of the gas. You may also want to have the timing checked. (http://autorepair.about.com/cs/fuelinjection/a/aa030301a_2.htm) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) The throttle position sensor responds to the accelerator pedal movement. This sensor is a kind of potentiometer that transforms the throttle position into output voltage, and emits the voltage signal to the ECM. In addition, the sensor detects the opening and closing speed of the throttle valve and feeds the voltage signal to the ECM. The ECM receiving the signal from the throttle position sensor determines idle position of the throttle valve. This sensor controls engine operation such as fuel cut. On the other hand, the "Wide open and closed throttle position switch", which is built into the throttle position sensor unit, is not used for engine control.
Check for vacuum leaks that occur only while cold especially at the throttle body gasket. Check for low tranny fluid level.
Listed in your owner's manual and somewhere on the vehicle, Normally on the driver's door post.
You could have a bad balancing job on them or have a broken belt in your tire(s). You feel these problems in your seat for rear tires, and in your steering wheel for you front tires.
Alignment will not cause vibrations. I think uour putting wheels on car that was not designed for them. Contact the wheel manufacturer.
OE wheels are hub centric to your vehicle and often times custom wheels are not installed with a "hub centric ring" The only true wy to center the wheels on your Passat is from the hub not the lug bolts. Go back to the place you bought your wheels and tires and ask them if they installed hub centric rings on your car. They are a must on any FWD vehicle and 90% of the time fix the problem. Last option would be to contact a shop with a road force balancer.
I placed American Racing wheels on my new Toyota Van and ever since have had trouble with the front tires vibrating at about 50mph and above. I have had the wheels balanced about 5 tires and on the fifth time it was better but then 4 months later the vibrating returns. I am convinced that some after market wheels just are not made for certain vehicles.
I have a 2001 PT Cruiser. When the original tires became worn, I opted to take the original steel wheels off and put new aluminum wheels on the car. The first set of custom wheels were 16", low profile tires. I felt like I was literally tearing the road up with my steering wheel. I could feel vibration in my steering wheel at all speeds, but when I hit about 68 mph on the freeway, things got really rough. I thought maybe a tire out of balance, but when cruising at any speed between 68 and 75, it would be smooth, then my steering would go wild, then smooth, to infinity. The vibrations in my steering wheel would last maybe 5 to 6 seconds at a time, then smooth out. I thought it was just the low profile tires, so got another set of custom wheels and new tires in 15" but, I could still feel some of the vibration I felt with the previous custom wheels and new tires. My husband said I was just too darn picky and I thought maybe he was right. Until... I had the new 15" wheels & tires rotated. The vibration came back with a vengeance! The tire dealer checked for tires out of balance and checked to see if the front-end was out of whack. Nothing wrong. I asked, could it be the wheels? No, they said, because they put these wheels on other PT Cruisers and no one ever complained. After another week of grinding the road up, I took my old, original wheels and tires out of the shed and put them back on my car. What a difference! Smooth as glass. I am taking the car in next week to have them take the new tires off the custom wheels and put them on the old rims.
I had some 185/65/15's 88 spokes (which are for sale :-P) and the same thing has happened to me. I noticed if you get some build up of dirt on the inside of the rim it will cause for a rough ride. Clean the rims not just on the outside but on the inside and take her for a ride.
Does your steering shimmy side to side if so you need a toe adjustment. And go back to the dealer and see if they have the eccentric ring for your rims.
I also had after market wheels on my Toyota Sienna Van and then put new tires on them. The first thing I was told is that after market wheels do not always center on the hubs. The second problem is that not all new tires are perfectly round. The problem was solved by having the tires mounted on the after market wheels and then the tire shop put them onto a tire trueing machine that cuts the tread or maybe a better way of putting is that the tire and wheel are trued to a perfect concentric cirlce are that way matched. All vibration went away. It was like riding on glass!
Easy. The front three coils are under the plastic 3000 badge on the front cylinder head. There is a single 10mm bolt holding in each coil. Once the bolt is removed disconect the wire attached to the the top, and the coil comes out. The rear coils are not under anything, but are harder to get to with all the other stuff back there. Removal is the same as the front three.
Sometimes broken engine mounts, rough engine performance problems, worn out harmonic balancers, and transmission problems. People expect to get a specific answer for all of their questions, especially in automobiles, but in reality, an automobile is a complex piece of machinery that needs very precise inputs and calibrations to run properly. Thus, there are many different arrays of problems that can cause similar symptoms. Other causes at speed are bent wheel, tire out of balance. warped rotor, etc.
Possible coolant sensor or O2 sensor, among other possibilities. If a sensor is bad, it will tell the computer to make an adjustment, when it does other sensors tell the computer "what's your problem, stop that." For example, say a coolant sensor is bad. The car is already hot but the sensor thinks it is still cold. When it is cold or the sensor thinks so, the sensor tells the computer to add more fuel, thus the idle increases. Now another sensor, say the oxygen sensor, says "hey your running too rich, stop it" so the computer again adjusts it, thus the decrease in idle. Depending on the type of fuel delivery system your Car/truck has. Induction will play a major role in how the engine performs. For example,Most fuel system with mass air flow induction will rely on the AIT sensor,02 sensor and air flow to the throttle body to ensure proper fuel mixture. Faulty sensors ,torn or brittle induction boot can result in acceleration fluctuation.Proper diagnostics,and inspect of engine componets will most likely expose the problem. The TPS sensor or the wiring leading to the tps sensor
Vibrations are usually caused by an imbalance of a spinning part. Tires, wheels, CV joints/axles, or large engine components can either be damaged and become "out-of-round", or in the case of tires, the steel belts can shift inside of the tire, causing vibration that can be felt through the steering wheel. In general, start with the tires, eliminating problems along the way, and work toward the inside of the car. Have your tires balanced, and get an alignment check. That should take care of the problem (and should be done on aregular basis anyway). It is important to take care of the vibration right away, even if you can "live with it". Out of balance equipment like that can cause other damage within the car, and can make the vehicle unsafe to drive.
i have a small truck i put tires on it had them on it for about 8 moths . it vibrated in the front bad i could not get anyone to tell me why they told me this and that. i just gave up so one day i chose to buy tires and the tire shop guy siad oh you want light truck tires so i said sure why not the shaking and vibrating stopped. moral of the story i had car tires and NOT truck tires. for what its worth it helped my vibrating. it stopped it....
Alignment will not cause a noise...directly. It may cause tires to wear irregularly to cause a noise. Run your hand over the tire tread. is it smooth?Maybe the rear wheels were overtightened and the bearings are shot.
If they wobble and your steering wheel moves back and forth, it is usually a bad tire (s).
If you are getting a noise as you describe it is usually uneven chopped wear of tires. Or bad bearing(S).
Rotating them every 5-8000 miles should keep them wearing evenly if the alignment is good. If they alignment is out, they may wear abnormal regardless of rotation and may make noise. Rotating abnormally worn tires will shift the noise if they are the cause.
Balancing a good tire keeps the tire from vibrating at various speeds.
Bearings in most cases would need replacement.Your description makes me think tires and or bearings.
Or you could just check to see if there is anything inside the rim like gravel or dirt, or in North Dakota, snow. i know this for sure only happens when driving faster like on a highway, it happens to me quite a bit and the shaking is caused because there is more dirt stuck on one side of the rim than the other and causes your tire to become unbalanced
Pros of Ceramic:
- In general, they last longer than semi-metallic
- They can take slightly more abuse
- They leave minimal brake dust, and the dust that is left is less noticeable-a nice complement to chrome and alloy wheels.
Cons of Ceramic:
- Ceramic brakes need to warm up a little before they attain the grip of semi-metallic pads.
- They're more expensive-sometimes considerably more. However, some brands sell competitively-priced ceramic pads.
Pros of Semi-Metallic:
- Better grip than ceramic when cold
- Often less expensive than ceramic
Cons of Semi-Metallic
- Shorter life
- Brake dust is much more apparent
I've used both. I've been buying semi-metallic for a while, but that's because they have a lifetime warranty, so I don't pay for replacements. I just put my chrome wheels on for the summer. I'm thinking of switching to ceramic. Just remember you're going to have to brake slightly harder or earlier until those puppies get hot. The difference is not extremely noticeable in performance. If you have chrome rims you want to take care of, go with ceramic. If you want more life out of your pads, go with ceramic. If you don't want to pay as much, go with semi-metallic.
Earlier ceramic brake pads are supposed to be the ones that have to heat up before they grip as well as semi-metallic. Supposedly some recent ceramic pads don't have this problem. You'll need to do some research to find out which is which.
Also, some ceramic brake pads wear out rotors faster than organic and some semi-metallic pads, so if you're going to install ceramic pads, and if your current rotors are approaching their minimal thickness, it's best to replace the rotors with tougher ones designed for use with ceramic pads, that won't wear out as fast. However, if your current rotors are in good shape, just keep them in place until it's time to replace them, then replace them with ones designed to wear less with ceramic pads.
++ Real Answer ++
Ceramic formula brake pads use ceramic compounds and copper fibers in place of the semi-metallic pad's steel fibers. This allows the ceramic pads to handle high brake temperatures with less heat fade, provide faster recovery after the stop, and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors. And from a comfort standpoint, ceramic compounds provide much quieter braking.
Another characteristic that makes ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust. All brake pads produce dust as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light colored dust that is much less noticeable and less likely to stick to the wheels. Consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.
Ceramic pads meet or exceed all original equipment standards for durability, stopping distance and noise. According to durability tests, ceramic compounds extend brake life compared to most other semi-metallic and organic materials and outlast other premium pad materials by a significant margin - with no sacrifice in noise control, pad life or braking performance.
i have a 2000 ford expedition, min did the same thing....twice. first time had a bad O2 sensor replaced that ran fine. second time was plugs Would help to know make and model of vehicle. But the most likely cause is an engine miss due to a bad plug wire or plug or a dead cylinder [no compression]. Other causes could be a vacuum leak or the fuel/air mixture may be way off. The engine is still missing at higher speeds you just don't notice it as the higher engine speed simply covers it up. This is why engine misses are usually diagnosed only at idle or under load while the vehicle is stationary. bestalucktoyou Check passenger side motor mount. A bad one will make the car vibrate at idle. The car very much may be out of time. At higher engine speeds you will not notice it. If you recently had the timing belt done or your timing belt jumped, would cause this. But first try a tune up.
Sounds like brake pulsation. Probably from the front brake rotors. Don't cut them, chuck them and get new ones, replace the beat up pads at the same time and adjust the rears-if drum brakes in back.
Brake pads/rotors are usually to blame for vibration during heavey or normal braking
I agree,new pads, rotors, all the way around will help. But if they are bad, you might want to have the rubber lines checked for cracks to ensure future safety.
A pulsating brake pedal which is known in the automotive world as spongy brakes is caused by worn or warped rotors/drums and/or shoes/pads. To correct this problem visually inspect the parts.If the rotors are not perfectly smooth then replace them.
Possible cause poor fuel pressure. Replace fuel filter first. Doesn't solve problem check fuel presure. Need to know what kind of car you have for futher diagnostics. You're fuel pump may be bad. There are other things that can cause this but need more information.
Your car may be equipped with an Air Conditioning Idle Valve which increases idle speed when the air conditioning compressor engages to compensate for the greater power required to run it. If the A/C Idle Valve is not functioning properly and switching on, then the A/C compressor needs more rpms than your motor is producing at standard idle, and pulling power from the engine itself.
my car does the same 93 maxima se manual transmission. I checked and found out that two of the cylinders are not working so the car is running on 4 cylinders. And that's why the car shakes when the a/c is on not enough power. I plan to either wait till the car gives up or buy a rebuilt engine.
Clean the IAC valve. I had the same problem and I did tune up, changed fuel filter but it still remained same. Then I opened the IAC valve from the throttle body and cleaned it's dust using a Carb cleaner (walmart) and from the very next ride, the AC went normal.. even when idle.
It could be your idle control motor (or servo kit), it's part of the fuel induction system and basically regulates air intake. (A new idle control motor should run you about about $200). I had to replace this on my Mitsubishi it cost me $183 to do it myself, which is alot better than what the mechanic wanted ($670.00!!!!)
If you have thick or short arms, get someone else to do the job.
This might be the exception, but most Dodge light trucks with automatic transmission have a crank sensor near the top of the bell housing just to the drivers side of centerline. Unplug the connector from underhood, passenger side (if you can see it) then from underneath the truck remove the 7/16th head bolt from the sensor. You may need a swivel and very long extension to remove this bolt. You may also need to remove the shifter linkage if this vehicle has an automatic transmission; don't forget to set the parking brake.
Once the bolt is removed, you should be able to give the sensor a short twist like a spark plug wire boot, then pull it out.
On the other hand, we might be talking about a 'logical' crank sensor that exists only in PCM software and is created based on cam sensor data from the pickup in the distributor. Either way, really. Can I have another beer now?
Worn steering or suspension parts. This can be very dangerous, so have this repaired ASAP.
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