Chevy Avalanche

were is the oil pressure sensor located

Answering "How do you change the rear brake pads on a 2002 Chevy Avalanche

6 3/4" in front and rear

There are 2 knock sensors and they are both located under the intake on the top of the engine. You must remove the intake manifold to access the sensors.

It's definitely doable, but it's a bit more of a pain than it should be. Before you get started, you need to know that the fender liner is fastened directly to the washer reservoir with plastic push-in retainers. If you slide under the left front of the vehicle, you can easily see the bottom of the reservoir and the retainers holding the fender liner in place. These retainers are made to push in, but never come out - it may be possible to get them out without breaking them, but it seems unlikely to me. They probably cost less than a buck, so buy two of them when you by the replacement reservoir. If the parts guy can't find them in his catalog, you might try showing them to him.

Another important point is that the fluid reservoir actually needs to be removed from underneath the vehicle - there's a structural member in the way that makes it difficult if not impossible to pull it out through the hood opening. That would not be a big deal were it not for the fact that the fluid lines and electrical connectors approach the reservoir from the top. This means that the pump assemblies need to be removed from the reservoir *before* the reservoir can be dropped down and out of the engine compartment. It's doable, but it has to be done by feel because there just isn't enough room in there to see what you are doing. More on that later.

By the way - my Yukon XL has a rear wiper/washer, so it has two pump assemblies and two fluid lines. If you don't have a rear wiper, you will have one pump assembly and one fluid line.

So, on to the task at hand:

# Disconnect the battery cables and remove the support brace that runs diagonally over the top of the battery (I believe a 10mm socket will work). Lift the battery out and set it aside. # If the washer reservoir is not empty, siphon off all fluid now.

# Remove the 10mm screws holding the battery tray in place, and set the tray aside.

# The reservoir attaches to the front part of the truck frame with two 10mm screws. The upper screw is easily accessible from above - remove it.

# With a flashlight, locate the washer fluid lines. They run along the left hand side of the fender then down behind the washer reservoir to the pumps. You may be able to gently tilt the reservoir back and actually see the pump assemblies attached to the bottom front of the reservoir.

# Looking at your replacement reservoir, try to visualize how the pump assemblies attach. First, notice the rubber bushings at the bottom of the recession in the reservoir where the pumps fit. Directly above each bushing, at the top of the recession, is a channel which is molded into the reservoir itself. Each pump has a short intake nipple which pushes down into the rubber bushing. Each pump also has a vertical pin at its top that snaps into the channel at the top of the recession. To remove a pump assembly from the reservoir, you gently pop the top pin out of the channel by pulling the pump forward (away from the reservoir), then gently twist and wiggle the pump nipple up and out the rubber bushing. You will probably need to do this "blind", so it's a good idea to visualize the procedure first. # (Put on safety glasses now!) Slide under the front of the vehicle on your back. Locate and remove the lower 10mm mounting screw.

# At this point, the reservoir should be held in place only by the plastic retainers that attach it to the fender liner. You should be able to push the reservoir away from the front of the vehicle enough so you can reach up and feel the pump assemblies.

# Gently remove the pump assemblies as described above. Try to disturb the fluid lines as little as possible - they are somewhat flexible (at least mine were), but they have a reputation for breaking. # Locate and remove the electrical connector to the fluid level sensor.

# Remove the plastic retainers that attach the fender liner to the reservoir. You may need to clip them off from beneath, or cut them off from within the wheel well. Or, maybe you know the trick for removing them without breaking them ... # Taking care to not catch any of the pumps/tubes/wiring, pull the reservoir down and out of the engine compartment. # Holding the reservoir upright (important!), grab the the fluid level sensor and gently twist and wiggle it until it is free. If you forget to hold the reservoir upright, the float arm of the fluid sensor may articulate such that it catches on the rim of its mounting hole as you pull it out. If this happens, the float arm will probably snap off and remain inside the reservoir. You should be able to fish it out and snap it back into its cradle. # If your new reservoir did not come with rubber bushings for the pumps and sensor, remove the bushings from the old reservoir. My new reservoir came with the two small bushings that receive the pump intake nipples, but did not have the bushing that receives the fluid sensor.

# Gently push the fluid level sensor into its hole in the new reservoir. It is designed to fit the right way.

# Look at the top of the fat part of the two reservoirs and locate the holes through which one of the battery tray screws will go. If your old reservoir has a threaded metal clip for that screw to cling to, but your new reservoir doesn't, move the clip from the old one to the new one.

# Notice that the hole for one of the pump assemblies is higher than the other - this is the hole for the rear pump. The rear pump should be marked "Rear", and goes in this hole # Gently fit the new reservoir into position from beneath the vehicle. Take care not to catch any of the dangling pumps/lines/connectors on the reservoir as it passes by.

# Push the intake nipple of the front pump into the lower bushing, then snap its top pin into the reservoir channel. Repeat with the other pump. # Reconnect the wires to the fluid level sensor. # Replace the two 10mm mounting screws.

# Reattach the fender liner to the reservoir using the plastic retainer pins. # Replace the battery tray and attach it with the screws removed in Step 3. The two screws that are different from the others go in the angled surface that rests on the inside of the fender. # Replace the battery and connect it up.

# Replace the diagonal brace and tighten it down.

# Fill the reservoir with a gallon of washer fluid.

if you have to ask how to replace the belt you should not open the hood take it to a shop

you need a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to fit the square hole in the spring loaded tensioner and release the tension on the belt so you can remove the old belt from the closest pully you can reach at the same time. Make sure you have a diagram of how it goes back on before you take it off. The tensioner is a pully affair located in the belt path and you find it by looking for the 1/2 inch square drive "hole". When you get the new belt on all the pullys except the last one you have to release the tension again with the 1/2 inch breaker bar while you slip the belt over the final pully. It helps to have a 2 foot water pipe on the breaker bar to make it easier to release the tension while you work the belt. A helper would be useful also.

I drive a 2002 Chev impala for a living, and what you have to do is turn off the radio, push and hold "Disp" (the bottom button encased in the tuner knob), until settings comes up on the display. use your seek buttons (located to the left of the "1" button) to select the setting you wish to reset, then push "display" once again, to show "reset", push it once more, and "done" will appear on your display. You so the same for oil life, auto-locks, etc. once finished, you seek to "exit", push display, and you're back to normal playing mode. Hope this helps. we took ours to dearler ship they said they replaced somthing and it was fixed well 2 mths later it came back on it just so happened i had to replace my battery at same time when i did it went off now when i have tires balaced or it comes back on i dissconnect battery it works there is suppose to be a way to clear it through the radio but its not there hope this works for u too Mitch

The back speakers are 10x4 or 4x10. The front corners are 3 1/2

you need to take it to a dealer or repair shop because you have to do it using a computer.

Don't know for sure it will work with a 2006, but here is the procedure for a 2004: # Close all the vehicle doors. # Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder. # Press and hold the door unlock switch. # While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF. # Release the door unlock switch. The doors will lock and unlock to confirm the program mode. # Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button simultaneously on one transmitter. After a delay of approximately 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm the programming of that transmitter. # Repeat the previous step to program up to four transmitters. # Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position in order to exit the keyless entry transmitter mode. # Operate the transmitter functions in order to verify correct system operation.

Speaker size on the 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche is 6.5" round.

(on the 2003 they are slightly bigger at 6 3/4")

I do not know the depth for the 2002. hopefully someone else can answer that because i would like to know.

engineers estimated hp (not at the wheels --5.7-275 horse 5.0 220 horse "i think Ls1 5.7 is 305hp but they were under rated to make the corvett look better but their never was a 305 or 5.0 after 1992

How do you change the alternator on a 1996 ford F350 diesel

I was told by a co-woker that if you disconnect the negative battery cable for about 20 minutes or so that will reset the service engine light.

Usually a large channel lock plier will do the trick, if it still wont come loose, break out the hammer.

you should be able to find a shop manual at the local library with the right information on this -- make copies of the pages, as they are usually for REFERENCE only...:) OR Just visit this site and find the article on air filters.... http://www.toyotaownersonline.com/parts-service/diy.html

If other things vibrate as well as the steering wheel you might have a damaged motor/transmission mount.

It is inside of a black plastic cover that is mounted just to the left of the battery / between the motor and the battery.

I paid a little over 900 & for the pump, fuel filter, 2 fuel lines, oil change, plus labor. The pump was 350, the shop made lines for abought 40/50 $ cheaper and several days shotter than if they ordered the lines. Parts 460 labor 480. I feel as if i have been had does any one else feel the same way? 2003 chevy avalanche

Most cars and trucks today have what is called a serpentine belt which runs most accessories.They are very dependable and usually easy to replace. To decide if your belt needs replacing, simply look at the grooved side of the belt to see if it is cracking badly. A couple of cracks every 3 inches is normal, but if you see cracks every 1-2 inches I would recommend that you replace it. On most cars and trucks the procedure is basically the same. First off, get the correct belt by bringing your cars VIN number to the parts store(located on your cars dashboard) the parts store may need it. If there are two choices, get them both so you can complete the repair. Once you have the correct belt, take a minute to review how the belt runs across the pulleys and also check to see if your car/ truck has a underhood diagram of belt routing in case you need it. In most cases you will need a socket wrench or breaker bar with either a 3/8" and /or 1/2" head on it and possibly a short extension. Some models may require a wrench of these similar sizes.Now that you are ready to go to work, you will need to find the spring loaded tensioner which is generally located near the top of the belt path; it usually has a shinny pulley on it. Look at the tensioner and insert the tool into it and apply opposing pressure to release the belt.Now, simply install the new belt making sure it fits into the grooves on all the pulleys. Start the car to check it and you are done and you saved yourelf some money!

I have seen a few on the net with CLK 18" alloys on, so my guess is quite possibly

210 hp from the factory

117 liter or 30.9 US gallons