Where is the 2007 Chevy Avalanche cabin air filter location?
The 2002 was the only Av to have one.....crazy. Almost as crazy as no tranny cooler on my Z71 "tow package". There are kits to add a filter, but they sound like a PITA
= 2006 BMW M3 Coupe 333bhp = = 2005 BMW M3 Coupe Competition Package 333bhp = = 2003 BMW M3 CSL 360bhp = = 2001 BMW M3 GTR Street Version 350bhp = = 2001 BMW M3 GTR Street Version 350bhp = = 2008 BMW M3 Sedan 414 =
How do you unlock anti-theft system on a 2003 avalanche?
disconnect battery for 30 minutes,and then reconnect to reset
How much horsepower does a 1967c-10 4.6 283 3789935 have?
With a 2bbl carb. 195 HP With a 4bbl carb. 220 HP.
How do you replace the fuel filter on a 2002 Chevy Avalanche?
The fuel filter is located under the drivers door. It is on the undercarriage and will require a couple of wrenches, small catch can and rags to change. Also, the filter is a relatively cheap part ($13 to $16). I was able to change mine after it went out in the parking lot of a auto repair shop. You definitely want to replace this before it leaves you stranded or worse yet, causes your fuel pump to work too hard and fail.
How do you install air filter on navigator 1999?
My boyfriend won't help me. How do you change a air filter in a Lincoln Navigator 1999. I bought a new one now what?
How do you change a cabin filter on a 2005 Honda Civic?
It's behind the glovebox. open the glovebox and remove the retaining clips that prevent it from opening all the way. You can then see the filter housing behind the glovebox.
Has Chevy ever fixed the knocking engine noise in the 5.3 for any customers?
NO. There conclusion was that it is a NORMAL problem with the 6.0L and 5.3L engines and that it will not do any HARM are cause a early engine problem as long as you let the engine idle and warm up to running temperature before driving.
The noise that you hear are the PISTONS slapping in the cylinders when engine is cold. As the engine warms up the piston expand and tighten up in the cylinders and the noise goes away. That is SAD. For a company such as Chevy to do NOTHING about that problem. I own a 2000 6.0L too, and it is also noisy on start up.
2004 ford f-150 spark plug removal?
Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out.
How much horsepower does a 1995 GMC Yukon 4x4 have?
The 1995 GMC Yukon base 2-door 4x4 SUV with a 5.7 liter V8, and a 5-speed manual transmission produces 200 horsepower at 4,000 rpm. The fuel tank on this vehicle holds 30 gallons.
Picture of where the fuel filter is on 2004 Chevy avalanche?
In 2004 Chevy started putting the fuel filter inside of the fuel tank.
3.8 liter V6 ( 190 horsepower )
4.6 liter V8 in GT ( 260 horsepower )
In a 2001 Ford Mustang
How do you change the cabin dust and pollen air filter in a 2005 Honda CRV?
The filter is located behind the glovebox just unclip the filter to remove it
Where is the evap canister on 2002 Chevy Avalanche?
The evap canister on the 2002 avalanche is located along the right front side of the fuel tank. It is bolted to the crossmember in front and it has another bolt at the rear of the canister (both are 13mm bolts). It has 1 large and 2 small hoses that must be removed. The smaller hoses can be removed by compressing the front portion of the flange by which they are connected to the stem coming off of the canister and then pulling the hose away. The larger hose is a tiny bit more difficult to remove. There are two tabs on the flange of this hose and they are designed to prevent accidental removal of this hose. The tabs catch onto a ridge on the stem comming off of the canister. There may be a special tool to remove this hose but I simply used a very small flat head screw driver to pry up the two tabs on the flange and then pulled the hose away.
Where is the jack located for the Chevy Avalanche?
For 2002 Avalanche, its on the right rear door side of the rear seat. By opening the door, you should see at the base of the seat a removable panel. It will be on the right side of the seat.
Where are fuses in a 2004 Chevy Avalanche?
Some fuses located inside panel on dash inside drivers door and some are in a black plastic box under the hood, it might not be marked but its easy to find.
Where is evaporative emissions purge control valve solenoid on dodge durango located?
It is located on the firewall above the back of the valve cover on the driver's side of the engine. It is mounted with a rubber and slides up and off the mounting bracket.
How do you repair the driver side door latch?
what is wrong with the door latch? will it not open/latch? what year is the vehicle? all of these are needed to answer your question.
How program Keyless remote 2002 avalanche?
While holding the door unlock button on your driver's door, turn the key to ON then OFF, then ON, then OFF. Release the unlock button and the doors should lock/unlock to confirm the PDM is in programming mode. Then hold the door unlock and door unlock buttons on your remote at the same time. After about 15 seconds the doors should lock and unlock to acknowledge that it's picked up the remote. Program all remaining remotes at this time. The system will take up to four remotes.
How do you pull the back driver's side seat down in a Chevrolet Avalanche?
there is a pull tab coming off the base of seat pull that up all the way first. then try pulling it down.