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First check fuse. Then check switch by test light with power on this will mean if there is power to the swtch if not check wiring. if there is power in the wire. then replace switch. Then check wires. By volt meter. If wire damage repair or re place wire.

A common problem with a Lincoln Towne Car is the gear inside the power window motor fails. The sound that it normally makes when this problem exists is "Zoom, Zoom, Zoom, etc." when the switch is used in both directions. The gear will need to be replaced.

Check the wire harness for cracks in between the door opening, with time it brakes from closing/opening doors

Pour rubbing alcohol on the switch. It cleans the shumtz out and sometimes works.

Nervous about using rubbing alcohol? Try some contact cleaner (check Radio Shack). It won't fog styrene plastics like alcohol will.

With the key -off- (no power), spray the cleaner into the switch (careful of splashing in the eyes) and work the switch a bunch of times.

For the shade tree mechanic there is a heat sensitive circuit breaker in the motor that fails more often than the motor. Jump it out and put an external self resetting 10a breaker in the motor line

A method that somtimes works when you have a bad conecction is slamming the door. It is useful for when you need to close the window eg so people cannot break into your car. Not exactly a long term solution though.

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If it is a standard, it's down on the back side of the engine. if you stand in front of the car open the hood. on the right side below the brake fluid reservoir you will see a small white stick . Lift it and pull it up. It's hard to reach and may be dirty as well; try to wipe of any excess dirt before you pull it. To top it up you need a funnel and a hose and some GM synchromesh fluid.

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Which fan is not working? Engine fan or HVAC fan?

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I found the easiest thing to do when having power window problems was to change the window motor(I have changed 3 out of 4 on my 94 intrepid).This is actually quite easy to do as long as you take the time to ensure you have removed all the screws on the interior door panel and be carefull when you take the trim off as the speaker wiring and the wires for the locks and windows will still be attached. good luck

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Trouble code P0502 means:Vehicle speed sensor circuit low input

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The motor could be bad. Takeit to a garage. I have a 92 sunbird convertable I had the same problem Its the relay switch located in the trunk on the left side of the pump mounted to the back wall of the trunk with one screw Unfortunatly it is a very hard junkyard part to find and you have to buy a new one from a dealer and it costs about $120.00 or so (very high i thought for such a little part) so I f your ready here is a simple easy and cheap way to fix it. First pull the conector plug fromp the pump shold be two thick wires orange and brown i think put a wire in each one and run it to a good baterry one on ethe positive and one on the negative ( don't matter which one it works both ways one way makes it go up then switch wires other way goes down that will tell you if its the motoe or not. Then if the motoe works then go and get a high output 3 way switch and wire it your self deleting the relay and mount it in you dash then you have a new switch and you top should work good luck1

cheak all the fuses. there should be on and it proubley blew

The electric motor is bad.

I had the same problem and it was the top cylinder that are finish i replace the top cylinder and the problem was solved. It depend where you live it could be a $300. to a$500 dolars fix. i got the cylinder from the convertable guy on the internet

Have a nice day gerrybelca@yahoo.com

I thought it was a major issue, too. One day I was talking to a friend with the engine running. I pressed the rocker switch and the top started to move. I found it wouldn't work with the ignition shut off yet the relay clicked...try it with the key in the "on" position.

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Under the hood and on the ground,in the front floor board and wait a minuet or two,the rest of it should land soon...

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To change the front axle on a cavalier is a little rigerours first of all. you will need the following tool: Air Compresser, impact gun, 18mm impact socket, 29mm impact socket, and a pry bar of some sort. take off the desired tire, then disconect the tie-rod (18mm impact socket), then you wat the use the same socket to take the two (2) Bolts off of the shock assembly (please note, when the car is off the ground, the shoak is fully extended.) With the 29mm impact socket and gun, take off the nut at the center of the hub (there is a washer behind the nut so keep you eye on it.) when the nut is off you can not manhandle the axel out of the hub, or disconnect the hub from the lower control arm. this will allow full access to the axel. The next thing you do is to use the pry-bar to break the axel free of the transmission. then finally you take your new axel and do everything in the reverce order. I'm a proud Chevy owner and i hope this will help you. Thank you for allowing me to help.

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Either the motor has burned up or the mechanism for raising and lowering has fallen off. You will need to remove the inside of the door to check.

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When this happened on my '99 Cavalier Z24 convertible, the DRL (Daytime Running Lamps) Relay had failed. Locate the instrument panel fuse block by opening the car's driver side door and looking at the left end of the instrument panel. To open, push the tab on the access door to the left and pull the door forward. Make sure to insert the tabs when replacing the cover. The DRL Relay is in the 3 O'Clock position, probably black plastic, about 1/2" X 3/4" X 1" deep and larger then the other relay and fuses in that panel. The replacement cost over twenty dollars at the local Chevy dealer. After I inserted the new relay, my daytime running lamps operated correctly.

Get one at a salvage yard much cheaper or test the one you have.If that dont correct the problem you are in for a headache finding a short in the front wiring harness.GM enginer's are at fault here.When they put this wiring harness together,they used tape as a wire insulator. DUCT TAPE!! There are about forty-eleven splices on the part of the harness that is fastend to the front bumper between the metal bumper and the radiator/condensor.Water gets into these splices and it gets corrosin on the splice. I was told to replace the harness.That would be a lame thing to do.WHY change it to another one just like it? Take all this tape off,cut the splice,INSTALL HEAT SHRINK INSULATORS ON THE WIRE,connect it together again(just like it was)put alittle light bulb grease on the splice,then srink the insulator around the splice. It solved my problem with BOTH of my 97 z's..Good Luck and do 1 splice at a time. Or go to a garage.

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You MIGHT be able to solve the problem if you haven't damaged the clutches already. Drop the transmission pan, check for large chunks of debris in the bottom of the pan, if you don't have much more than about a tablespoon, you MIGHT be able to change the filter, re-fill it with fluid and maybe it will work... probably not. Once a transmission starts slipping it usually needs a rebuild.

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The abs system will activate when certain perameters are met within either the vehicles pcm or abs module. The noise is the abs motor actuating your brakes. If never experienced it can be pretty unerving but is normal. there could be some "teeth" missing on the wheel sensor, which causes flat spots in the analog signal, these are the same condtions as when the wheel locks up

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It's hard to get to, but if you look at the front of the engine it is beneath the intake manifold (2.4). It is right on the block, and if you don't like tight places, it's not the job for you. It is right on the front of the block, above your oil filter etc. I know what your thinking, and I wish it was up high on the radiator too.

The answer above is incorrect. The thermostat is not very hard to change.First remove the heat shield from the EXAUST manifold, from the firewall side of the engine(3 screws). Get a ratchet, 10" extention and a 10mm socket.Remove the shield. Drain antifreez into a CLEEN oil drain contaner so you can reuse the fluid. On the bottom of the engine behind the bottom pully(on the oil pan)unbolt that flat looking metal tube(1 bolt).The tube will be black unless someone painted it. The thermostat is at the end of that black pipe where it bends up. Now from the top look down through the EXAUST manifold,you will see 2 screws on that black pipe.Those 2 screws hold the thermostat in. Remove them with 8mm socket, separate it there and "POOF" your thermostat.The thermo will only fit in one way,spring up. ABOVE that is the water pump. I agree it is a pain to do,but, that is all I agree with.The water pump on a GM 2.4L DOHC engine is between the engine and the firewall underneeth the EXAUST manifold.Put a floor jack underneeth the engine to support the weight of the engine.REMOVE the exhaust manifold from the car. Remove the drive belt,top engine mount on the passenger side and the coolant fill jug. Then remove the engine lifting bracket(3 big bolts). Then remove the passenger front wheel and splash guard so you can get to the bottom pully.Block the pully from turning counter clockwise when you loosen the crankpully bolt. IMPORTANT..DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE BACKWARD WHILE REMOVING THE CRANK BOLT!! Slack will get in the timing chain and mess up your timing. LOWER the floor jack just enough to use your pully puller to remove the crank pully. NOW, you should see a endless number of screws going around the edge of the flat cover and some in the middle of it where there is a hole(where the 3 big bolts were).Remove ALL of those screws with a 10mm socket and/or wrench, whatever it takes to get them out,but get them all. NOW.. the VERY important stuff.After the cover has been removed, barly put the pully back on so you can rotate the engine by hand CLOCKWISE...The crankshaft keyway should be pointed up(there is a dot mark) and 2 LITTLE HOLES on the cam gears pointing close to 6 o'clock position. Get two 8mm bolts and insert them into small holes in the intake cam gear and the exhuast cam gear.If you look through those little holes you will see they must go through the gear and into a hole in the housing behind the gear.THAT WILL HOLD THINGS IN TIMING. Now remove the chain tentioner,it is spring loaded so be careful or you could be looking everyehere for small parts that went flying.Now take the chain off the water pump sprocket.You now have to go behind the chain housing and unbolt the bolts holding on the water pump housing. The water pump and housing consist of 4 gaskets and need to be tightend is a special way to prevent leaks. www.autozone.com has FREE online repair manuals, you should check these out before atemping this. Good Luck

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use a razor blade and slice a small slit the size of the wire in the rubber boot that the brake cable or throttle cable goes through, it may be easier to put the wire through the steering columb boot. after u put a slit in the rubber boot just push the wire through.

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The refrigerant 134 loaded through the LOW PRESSURE side of the vehicle a/c system, but I will say if you are not knowledgeable, nor equipped on refrigerants-LEAVE IT TO A PRO--you could get hurt or cause damage

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1013 plus HST Canadian 520 for parts 85 for machining flywheel and the rest is labour 1 year warranty including labour warranty for 1 year

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If it is a front bulb, sometimes you can get to the bulb and remove it by turning it counterclockwise. If it is the rear you have to remove the housing and then remove the bulb.

Remove the (4) 7mm Hex screws that fasten the wheel well liner. Pull the liner back as needed. Then reach in and remove the bulb by twisting the connector to release the connector and bulb from the turn signal housing. Pull the connector back towards you and replace the bulb.

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there is no reset button, but it has an 80 amp maxi fuse. You must be thinking of a Ford Topaz or Tempo.Those are in the driver side trunk that resets the fuel pump.Having a tire blowout or a pot hole can trip them. In case of accident this button pops,shutting fuel pump down. This z24 does not have anything like that. But you can reset the theft System and reset the remote door and trunk unlock feature and reset the radio code and reset the OBDII Trouble Codes and the z24 converible has a reset button for the roof in the trunk.

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Hey Richard==I imagine the clutch is weak and slipping. Have it checked out and replaced if necessary. GoodluckJoe

A temporary "fix" is to buy some baby powder. Find an access hole at the back of the engine where the transmission bell housing is located-- it will show some gear teeth that the starter uses. Have a friend pump on the clutch pedal several times while you squirt baby powder into the clutch hole. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and engine stopped, of course! Don't EVER get under the car with the engine running, please. If you need more than once, start the engine, work the clutch. Stop engine and repeat with baby powder.

The baby powder will soak up any oil on the slipping clutch and provide some temporary "grab" . You still need a new clutch. But I have driven a slipping clutch--carefully--for three months this way. When taken apart, the clutch had pieces all over the bell housing.

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Well I don't know much about that car but it could prolly hold a small 6 cylindar, prolly not much higher.

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you don't. ac systems are filled with a chemical called R-12. if you breathe or swallow it you will die. take it to a trained service tech. pls.

Push down on the tensioner and remove the serpentine belt. From underneath, remove the electrical connector with a pair of needle nose pliers etc. Remove the single mounting bolt on the rear side of the compressor (from underneath). Remove the bolt holding the hoses to the rear side of compressor. Remove the 2 bolts (15mm) from the belt side ("front side") of the compressor.

The compressor uses R134a and no, it won't kill you as long as you don't intentionally do something crazy like inject it into you veins.

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You replace the wheel bearing hub assembly - it has studs, bearings and wheel speed sensor around $100 part

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It is in the firewall under all of the a/c ducts. Big job. Get a manual on your car to do the job properly.

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On the aldl connector under the dash, short the "A" and "B" openings with a paper clip and read the flashes of the check engine light. A code 12 { one flash pause then 2 flashes} means the system is operating. Any other code will follow and is flashed 3 times. This works on all GM previous to '96