Chevy Colorado

Take it to a shop or take the batter out and let it reset itself then put the batter back in

2007 Colorado will have a knock sensor which adjusts the timing automatically.

The idle air valve is a small silver colored cylinder which

bolts onto a manifold that bypasses the air throttle assembly.

It is on the right side of the engine (looking from the front).

Follow the air duct from the air cleaner to the throttle assembly.

If you remove the connector, it should have four terminals.

This is s stepper motor valve. The ECM drives the valve full

closed at startup then opens the valve a predetermined number

of steps (this will be either the computed idle point or the

default startup point if the ECM memory has been cleared). The

engine idle speed will then be monitored and the final operate

point determined. The valve and motor are about one inch in

diameter and just less than three inches long.

It should be located under the truck at the front portion of the gas tank.

If you are talking about the HVAC blower motor then it is mounted on the firewall behind you glove box on the passenger side. Just remove all the lower dash trim and you will see two large black boxes your blower motor is in one of those, I believe it is the one on the right.

Get a big hammer and beat it off. Spray penetrating fluid where you think it may get into the rotor to hub surface.

behind the glove box. take the glove box out. I think its like 6 screws and then take the panel off the heater box and then you can see the fan and take that off and you have it from there.

Stop by http://www.coloradofans.com there are different people that have had that problem. you can probably message them personally and see how they got to that problem.

P0300= Random/ multiple cylinder misfire detected

P0301= Misfire detected- cylinder #1

P0302= Misfire detected- cylinder #2

P0303= Misfire detected- cylinder #3

P0304= Misfire detected- cylinder #4

p0305= Misfire detected- cylinder #5

P.S. These are Diagnostic trouble codes, not vechicle id numbers.

Well I am not a mechanic so I cant tell you names of hoses and such. But the air filter is located on the passenger side of the truck towards the front. I unlatched the latches. Then disconnected the hose going in to filter from the front. Then I used a flat head screw driver to losen the nut on the hose coming from the engine block. Those steps were not in the manual. But I couldn't get the cover to come up without doing that. Then once I got the cover off replaced the filter and made sure I hooked everything back up exactly like I took it off.

Because there is a problem with the Anti-Lock Brake system, (ABS). Seek professional help. Your normal brakes will still work but your ABS may not.

Overheating?

Yes and no. With this new answer. The sensor is trying to tell you something. You possibly have a problem with the light assembly or it's wiring. The light needs to have a GFCI installed if it does not have one. Please, turn off the light at the breaker at once and get a qualified pool tech to trouble shoot the system and give you an estimate for repairs.

K

The answer to you question is yes, I just read this in the owners manual for a 1995 maxima yesterday 9 /28/05 as i was repairing the anti theft system hope this helps

Bad resistor pack at blower?

Bad low speed relay?

It's the connection at the wiring harness to the relay. If you unhinge the glove box, there is a black box with a wiring harness that plugs upward into the bottom - this attachment comes loose, best fix I have found is to make the connection tight, and then tape the harness in place so gravity can't work it loose anymore.

Try looking behind your glove compartment / corresponding location on engine compartment firewall.

Chock the rear wheels, raise the front axle and put it on jackstands, remove the tires and rims from the front axle, unbolt the brake caliper and hang it in a manner so that there isn't any tension put on the brake lines, remove the brake rotor, remove the hub cover and that'll expose the hub nut.. unbolt the hub nut and you should be able to take off the entire hub, including washers and bearings.. pay attention to the order in which they come out, because you'll have to reassemble it in the same order. Make sure the replacement bearings match the old ones and throw the old bearings out. Take a hammer and race punch to drive the races out of the hub, making sure not to scar the inside of the hub in the process. I like to let the new races freeze for a couple hours before I install them. Take the new races, drive them in with an appropriately sized race driver and hammer, ensuring that they're flush at the bottom. Pack the new bearings with grease. Install the inner bearing and wheel seal, place the hub on the spindle... install the outer bearing, and there should also be a washer which goes between it and the nut. Install the hub nut and torque to OEM specs. Reinstall (or replace) brake rotors, calipers, and pads. Reinstall the front wheels, torque the lug nuts to 90 - 100 ft/lbs.This is a general guideline for a dead axle on a light duty vehicle, and there are some specifics I can't tell you, since I haven't worked on this particular vehicle... there'll be some sort of retainer for the spindle nut... might be a locking cap which goes over it, or it might be a cotter pin which goes through the spindle... that'll need to be replaced if that's the case.

The spark plugs are located under each of the ignition coil modules on 2008 Chevy Colorado. It is necessary to remove the coils and related wiring to access and replace them.

Disconnect the neg battery cable for 10 mins.

You might think I'm being smart, but you change the oil when it's dirty. Check it every now and then. Most Synthetic oils now-a-days are good for about 5000 miles, coventional oils it's best to replace every 3000 miles. But the best rule of thumb is to change the oil when it's dirty. When you check your oil use a white paper towel to wipe the dipstick, if it's dirty you'll see it, you'll have to use your good judgment.

6.5 inches

Remove the Phillips head screws out of the panel first, then remove the clip behind the window handle, if it's manual windows. The next step is to carefully pull the panel off of the plastic clips, which should remain fastened to the panel. You may have to pry between the panel and the door to get it started. Once the panel is off at the bottom lift it up and out from between the glass and door frame.

The maintenance schedule of a Chevrolet Tahoe recommends changing the oil every 3000 miles and rotating the tires every 9000 miles. The schedule also recommends flushing the transmission every 30,000 miles.

The Chevy colorados do not come equipped with a cabin air filter

I don't have the diagram but I would not suggest cutting into the existing factory wiring for GM and Chevy vehicles. If you do, you will lose all of your chimes. This includes the seat belt warning, headlight reminder, door ajar, and low fuel warning. My suggestion is to buy an aftermarket interface harness with a chime. The correct model depends on what options your vehicle has such as Bose Premium Sound and OnStar.

Scosche and Crutchfield sell the harnesses and will make sure you get the right one, but Ebay is the cheapest way to go.

Piece of cake with proper tools: Remove the lug nuts/tire. 12mm wrench will remove the lower bolt from the brake pad caliper. Swing the caliper open and remove the pads. Two more bolts (17mm I think maybe 19mm) and the whole caliper assembly will be hanging by the fluid hose. Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut and remove the nut. It's tight so use a breaker bar or an impact driver. The nut is 1 1/4 inch. Put a gear puller on the hub assembly centered on the end of the axle. Pull the hub off. The rotor will be bolted to hub. 4 bolts will remove the rotor from the hub. 9/16 inch. Bolt the new rotor to the hub, put it back in place a pull it back on using the axle nut. Replace the pads if needed and reassemble. Good luck!

usually located on passenger side of dash behind glove box