Chrysler LeBaron

The turbo is held to the exhaust manifold by 4 nuts, 15mm in size. You'll need to disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust flange and the oil and coolant lines from the center cartridge of the turbo. Consider yourself lucky if you can remove all that with the limited access you have behind the engine. If that is the case, you can remove the turbo from below the car.

Many people just remove the head with the manifolds and turbo attached when they need to replace their turbos because it's just easier given the amount of room you have to work with.

yes, they are rated to tow up to 2000 lbs. If You have or get heavy struts you can tow I know Monroe makes struts for towing

ffs.. it ain't rocket surgery.. follow the instructions on the box

When the hood is open and you are facing the car, there will be a small access flap on the black plastic flap between the radiator and grill. With the flap open, there is a drive rod that disengages the headlight cover motor. Disconnect the drive unit, make sure the headlights are turned off. Manually place both head light doord in the closed (off) position and then re-engage the drive mechanism. This should have both light covers in proper sequence and adjustment.

yes.. most parts are good thru years 1989 - 1995.. He is correct, the only parts that are different are the engines, the transmissions, and the headlights. Most simple parts that dont relate to those should work.

On the inner fender on the drivers side. Will have two connectors (one large) .

I mean this seriously: Where you can get a good used replacement.

There is nothing external that can be the cause, it has had a serious internal failure and either needs overhaul or replacement

Pull off the speaker grille and remove speaker, ease out the seat/window/mirror/switch panel by sliding a screwdriver under the back end and ease panel out, disconnect wires from panel, unscrew escutcheon behind inner door handle, lift our small section of "carpet" from door pull and remove screw, locate and remove 3 screws in the bottom carpeted section of the door panel (you can feel the holes by running your fingers over the carpeted section) pull door panel away from door and disconnect puddle light and you are done!

Same principle for all models.. top rear of engine on left hand side 1. Disconnect neg terminal on the battery 2. undo wires to back of alternator. 3. Undo pivot bolts and adjuster, loosen and slip off drive belt and remove. Remember to take old unit when you go to get new alternator. Total time.. 20 mins

The rad fan relay on a 93 LeBaron is located on the L/S fender mounted by the shock tower. There's a group of relays in that location including the ASD relay, with the fan relay having a "green" wire that leads to the fan motor and a "blue w/ pink" wire the leads to the ECM.

A picture shouldn't be necessary. Open the trunk, and you should see a black plastic knob on a brass shaft sticking out of the carpeting on the passenger's side. Turn that counter-clockwise to bypass.

The starter is hard to get at under the fuel lines and junk on the drivers side of the engine compartment. I had mine done by a mechanic because it was to difficult for me to get at.

To turn off the auot locks you need to turn the key to the ON position and push unlock button three times then turn to OFF position and push lock three times, the horn will honk saying that it has been deactivated.

Out of transmission fluid, broken/disconnected shift linkage, failed pump, bad valve body seals, faulty torque converter... Any of the above or possibly even other problems could cause what you describe.

The first thing I would check is fluid level in the trans, then make sure all car wires and fuses are connected and in working order. Smell the fluid when you check it for burned smell. Finally have the filter in the trans serviced, if all proves ok your trans may be in need of rebuilding. ^^ there was a dealer TSB for this problem, it was common for these transmissions. a simple dealer fix.

Not sure on an '88, but if it's like a '92, it's under the hood in the fusebox in front of the driver's side strut. The inside of the box lid should have a diagram. --1990-- On my 1990 2.5L the relay is not in a fuse box. It is located on the drivers side fender wall about center. There are about three relays and the AC/Fan relay is the center one.

Toyota published a "Convertible Repair Manual Supplement" which covers top replacement. The manual is available from Toyota dealers and is publication number 00400-RM042-S.

On my 1994 325ic,i pull the lever under the driverside rear seat,then turn release handle at top of windshield.Standing on the side of the car lift the top back and rear of the top should start to lift up.grab the back and lift the boot cover then pull roof back into the conpartment.Mine boot cover doesnt lock down so i use zip ties to hold it down until i find whats wrong with my roof motors.Someone told me that after pulling lever the electric motors have to be reset.I,m still looking for instructions to do this.Hope this helps.

You might not have to replace the entire linkage. I went to Chrysler Part Dept. and picked up a bag of the nylon or plastic clips that goes on the ends of the linkage where it connects to the other moving parts. They just clip on to a stud and into a hole. (The right side wiper linkage came off where it hooks to the wiper arm. they get brittle and break apart after a few decades.) To get to them, remove the plastic panel that sets under the rear of the hood. Then remove a couple of plastic screens that cover the ends of the linkage. After some cuts and scrapes that result in about half a pint of blood loss, your wipers should work as good as new. P.S. My Lebaron was an 89. Hopefully they didn't change that much......

The best thing to do for a repair quetion like this one is to go to your local NAPA or Kragen, or whatever the local parts house is, and get a Haynes repair manual for your vehicle. If you have any questions just ask the clerk to help you.

if it is a 2.5L it should be 12 degrees before t.d.c.

you can replace power stering pump without moveing drive shaft but its fiddly. to remove drive shaft undo 30mm nut in centre,undo bottom ball joint and pull strut out of way be ready to catch gear box oil.

The process depends on which motor mount you need to replace. 95 percent of the time the problem is in the front mount on these front wheel drive Chryslers.

Front mount:

Raise the front of the vehicle on ramps, or securely on jackstands. Never work on a vehicle supported by a jack alone. Support the engine with a jack, with a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan, so you don't damage it. You don't need to jack the engine up by any amount, just to take a little of the weight off the mounts. Remove the through-bolt that mounts the insulator (the rubber part you're replacing) to the bracket. Remove the nuts and bolts (should be 4 total) that mount the bracket to the lower radiator support. That bracket should be free. Bend the tabs that retain the insulator in the mounting bracket to straighten them out, so you can force the insulator out. Note its orientation in the bracket. You'll need to press or gently tap the insulator out of the bracket. Insert the new insulator the same way the old one came out, and bend the retaining tabs to secure it. You may need to compress the new insulator a bit to get it in the bracket. Installation is reverse of removal.

Left (Passenger's side / engine) mount:

With a jack supporting the engine, remove the two down-bolts (13mm) that secure the mount to the wheel well. Remove the through-bolt (in-line with engine). At this point you should be able to jack the engine up slightly to aid removal of the insulator. Note the orientation of the old insulator, and replace it. If there were any shims or washers above or below the insulator, re-use them. Installation is reverse of removal.

Right (Driver's side / transmission) mount:

With the car on jackstands, remove the Driver's side wheel and tire. remove the round (about 1/14 inch) plug from the fenderwell by pulling the center strip out with pliers (metal type) or simply pulling it (rubber type). This gives you access to the through-bolt head. Remove the lower splash shield. With a jack (and block of wood) supporting the weight of the transmission, remove the through-bolt. It may have a long (2 1/2 inch) nut on the other end, accessible from above. Lower the transmission slightly and you'll see 3 bolts holding a steel bracket to the transmission. Remove these bolts, and remove the bracket and insulator. Bend the tabs back and tap the insulator out of the bracket. Insert the new insulator and bend the tabs to secure it. Installation is the reverse of removal.

After changing any engine mount, always check engine centering / axle length. You'll need to loosen the axle nuts which may or may not be accessible with the wheels on, depending if you have steel rims and hubcaps, or cast aluminum wheels. Either way, loosen the axle nuts which are very tight, but do not remove them. Push in the stub of the axle as far as you can on both sides. You want the amount of movement to be about equal, or within about 1/8 inch of eachother. You should be able to push both axles in by about 1/2 to 5/8 inch. If not, support the weight of the engine on a jack and block of wood, loosen the two down-bolts on the passenger's side, loosen the 4 (?) bolts holding the front mount bracket to the lower radiator support, and use a long board (or something similar) to pry the engine whichever way it needs to go. The driver's side mount is able to slide on its sleeve, so you do not need to loosen anything.

Re-check the axle length by pushing the axle stubs in, and if satisfied, tighten all engine mount bolts, remove the jack, tighten the axle nuts (180 ft-lbs), place the nut caps back on and insert a new cotter pin to retain it.

The most likely cause is a misajusted or faulty neutral safety switch, or your linkage is coming loose and preventing proper indexing. Your description is how most mechanics troubleshoot a "will not crank situation". If it will not crank in Park, move the trans lever to Neutral to see if it will crank. If it does it's the switch. Your car just did the test for you and now the switch has either moved just enough to prevent starting or by your description of not staying in any gear the shifter assembly needs to be repaired. Since you have two problems combined, one starting and one being a gear selection problem, I would lean towards the shifter assembly in the console is probably loosening up. If you are mechanically inclined you can figure out the screws that need to be removed to access the shifter assembly and remove the console to inspect it. Because it has loosened up, it has affected the neutral safety switch preventing your car from cranking. I did vehicle maintenance for 27 years and I will pretty much bet that this is your problem. The neutral safety switch is screwed into the trans. Front side, just above the pan. There are two swtches that look the same, however the Nuetral safety is the one closest to the tire or outside of the car. Trans model A604 Dan the tranny man