Chrysler New Yorker

not that i am aware of. i had a similar question for my 1991 new yorker salon. the best thing i found to do was to disable the alarm through the door. remove the door panel on the drivers side, you will notice two sets of cables and connectors near the base of the door. one goes to the motor of the window ( if your vehicle has automatic windows) and the other one is the door key sensor wire. (you will need a paper clip) test which two poles in the connector are for the alarm, there are three one is a ground. take paper clip and fit it onto those two poles, the alarm should stop and be deactivated. this should work for the time being until you can get a mechanic to fix the problem.

The engine computer is also the regulator.

The engine computer is also the regulator.

buy a hanes car manual for your car

A likely cause is an internally restricted radiator.

Pull on the hood release handle under the dash driver side. Then go to the front of the car, lift the hood slightly to access the secondary hood catch. Release it and open the hood.

Pull on the hood release handle under the dash driver side. Then go to the front of the car, lift the hood slightly to access the secondary hood catch. Release it and open the hood.

Idle speed is computer controlled and is not adjustable. If the speed is incorrect, there is a computer, sensor, or actuator failure.

As of 2014, there are a few places where one can get rear shocks for a 1994 Chrysler New Yorker with air ride. This can be purchased at Auto Zone and O'Reilly's.

Damaged Valve Train is Culprit!

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Our diagnostics by the book: We checked timing =OK. Rotated distributor through 30 degrees while running =no change. Points gap =OK. Firing order checked against book =was correct. Plug wires isolated to guard against crossfire =no change. Replaced cap =no change. Replaced rotor, points, condenser =no change.

At this juncture noted that backfire was VERY regular... as if related to one cylinder. So pulled each plug wire at distributor in order to see if one cylinder was culprit =#5 wire removed and backfire ceased. No other wire made any difference. #5 plug wire continuity/resistance checked =1500 ohms (3 foot resistor wire length). Swapped plug wires to check if dead/cross-firing wire =no change. Swapped #5 plug with #3 plug to check bad plug =no change. Noted that #5 carbon fouled, #3 not. Color of #3 looks good, so air/fuel mix ~OK. Compression test #5 against #3 and #1 cyl =all have 120-125 psi, so valve should be good.

At this point we called it a day. Engine starts, runs and even drives well enough on 7 cyls to be otherwise in good tune. Strong suspicion that (A) #5 is being leaned by bad intake gasket, (B) the valve is sticking just enough to be late closing, (C) there's a cracked head or head gasket issue. Are we on the right track?

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I would say you are on the right track. What ever is fouling #5 is probably causing the spark knock. Have you tried checking engine vacuum to see if there is a fluctuation. A fast needle could show a sticking valve.

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Solution: removed valve cover to observe valve action. Discovered #5 cyl had one push rod shoved right through the rocker arm at the push rod receiving cup (valve cover not hit by protruding tip). Pulled rocker shaft to replace and further discovered another valve had bent push rod. Now worried about whole valve train, especially a jammed lifter. At least it's less expensive than any other problem that could have happened at this point. The good compression indicates valves likely OK and engine is "noninterference" or "free turning" type that doesn't cause piston crowns and valves to damage each other if this sort of thing happens. Original cause of all this? Over - revving engine some time in past, coupled with worn rocker arm push rod receiving cup (due to low oil delivery to push rod tips).

SO. final verdict is: backfire caused by damaged valve gear, wherein #5 cyl pulls in charge and ignites it but, as exhaust valve isn't opening, burnt gasses can only leave via intake valve (near the moment of valve overlap), and further likely igniting intake gasses in the manifold and all eventually being forced out one side of the carb. Well that was interesting!

Chrysler dealer,

That happens when the transmission computer detects a malfunction and sets a code. It defaults to safe mode which is second gear. You need to have the codes read.

dot 3

there is one on the driver side in the front right next to the seat controll.. and on the other sided on the passenger side. the side panel justt pops off. and the size for these are about 5.25 in. the other two are in the back abouve the back seat around the brake light. they are in the 9 and 10 inch range. i do not know how to get to them yet.

Ignition coil circuit malfunction.

It is screwed into the exhaust manifold.
between the fire wall and the motor it will be on the muffler...

It is inside the fuel tank.

Chrysler does not use reset switches.

You need to have t h e transmission computer checked for codes.

it is the tranny mount

Start with the system off. Press auto, floor and defrost at the same time, unit will enter diagnostic mode, and display any fault codes.

fuel filter is located right in front of the gas tank in the middle towards the rear of the car in a holder with two hoses attached to it one goes in and the filter one goes out of the filter hope this hopes

It is on the rear, driver side of the engine.

There is no fuse for the compressor itself, if the compressor is not working, the low pressure switch has activated and there is not enough refrigerant in the system. Have your AC system serviced by a good shop or your local Chrysler dealer.

a tiny little box on middle of firewall with 2 wires to it and a spring clip, not to be confused with ignition box that is larger, more wires and has a screw holding it on. Regulator is normally a chrome looking or black

It could be a head gasket that needs replaced or a freeze plug needs replaced depending where the leak is coming from. It could also be a radiator hose.

Follow the passenger side axle to the transmission, the sensor is located in housing the axle fits into.