Clutches and Flywheels

Inspection hole.

In case you have a vibration or oil leaking..... This gives the mechanic a look without too much dis-assembly

It's on the driver side close to the firewall. The fluid type is indicated on the top which is about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter.

Buy a yamaha blaster manual. Shows you step by step picture by picture.

Brake booster pushrod

4 nuts under the dash around the brake pedal

All 300 of it.

This is a question without a better answer. You need to state a better question, such as -- how much extra horsepower can I gain by installing larger injectors? The answer to this one is -- none, if this is the only modification.

You should be able to - if you can't it is possible you need to replace your clutch as the plates are worn out.,

It is located inside the bell housing.

an awful lot of Renault drivers suffer poor starting and a simple replacement of TDC or flywheel sensor solves it - might be carbon related - costs fifty quid or so plus a little labour in most places and main dealers don't seem to know about this common problem

The reason is because the steel tip of the TDC sensor which picks up a signal from the flywheel telling the ECU when to fire the spark plugs gets dirty after a year or two and cannot get the signal.

There is no need to pay up to ££90 for a new one at a Renault garage just simply remove it and clean the tip! also clean the connector.

Shifting is all done on the left side of the bike. Your left hand works the clutch. Your left foot works the shifter. The shifter is geared up to a slotted barrel. When you push down it shifts down one gear at a time. And likewise when you lift up on the shifter with your foot it shifts up one gear. Most bikes have five gears. A few really fun bikes have six. Neutral is half way between first and second gear.

To start out from neutral, pull in the clutch lever with your left hand. Push down on the shifter with your left foot. Now slowly let out the clutch till the bike begins to move. Now slow down your release and give a little gas. Once your movement becomes stable you can release the clutch the rest of the way out. To shift into second, you pull the clutch in, pull up on the shifter with your left foot, and let the clutch out with your left hand again. Next you push your right fore arm under the throttle while gently gripping it with your right hand and expose your teeth and open your eyes wide.

A 93 should be a hydraulic clutch 4spd or 5spd unfortunatley adjusting it usually meens that it's slipping, so if its not the hydraulic fluid the only way to adjust it is to crimp the relay bushing (looks like a Chinese finger trap) up to the next peg, this will only buy you a month of carefull shifting. Best bet is to just buy a replacement its about $90-$130 for a reliable system.

There is a bleeder on the drivers side. It is on the side of the block. You have to hold the bleed and twist the top part. Its just like bleeding brakes too so you will need another person to help you.

I had recently experienced this with my 1989 626. The pedal only stuck to floor in 1st and reverse gears at first then eventually stayed stuck. I replace the clutch master cylinder. It could also be the slave cylinder which is where you will find the bleeder valve. Follow the hydraulic line from the master down to the slave and you will find the bleeder valve. First thing that i looked at was the fluid level in the reservour, then the master cylinder than the slave. Good luck

drop the drive shaft, disconnect all the wires to the transmission, drop the cross members, remove the transmission. You are now at the clutch housing. remove the six bolts hold the clutch pressure plate. once you do that the clutch disk will fall out. Inspect the pressure plate. ( if you can move the tines more than a inch then replace it). clean up the fly wheel with emory cloth. This is very important!!! If you cant figure this out then buy a owners workshop manual

throw-out bearing going bad is my guess

First make sure the pedal itself is not getting hung up on anything, ie. the floormat, or the carpet. Next if you look where the pedal mounts to the firewall of the truck there should be a return spring that reaches from the framework of the mounting setup for the pedals to the pedal itself. If that is in place then you must address a hydraulic issue. Make sure the slave cylinder mounted on the transmission is extending properly when clutch is depressed. If the slave cylinder does not, the master cylinder, a broken line, or the slave cylinder itself would be the culprit. If the the slave cylinder checks out, try putting the vehicle in gear with the clutch stuck down. If you can do so without your foot on the clutch I would think the throwout bearing/pressure plate assembly is binding and not forcing the clutch fork back to return the clutch. If this is the case then you're looking at a clutch replacement.

Aside from bleeding the clutch cylinder there is a very slight adjustment on the clutch cylinder plunger that is attached to the clutch pedal. You can loosen the jam nut on the link and if it like mine you can twist the rod in or out by hand otherwise you will have to pull the pin and drop the link to turn it

Go to the dealer.

Many have computerized screens which can display the parts and possibly print.

If you are thinking about pulling a tranny and tearing it down, Id suggest that you go to your local automotive store and buy one of the HP books on rebuilding Ford transmissions.

This will give you a pretty comprehensive breakdown of all of the critical assemblies along with instructions and torquing specifications etc.

The '96 200sx has no fluid for the clutch. This car has a cable operated clutch that needs to be adjusted. If the cable breaks the clutch will not disengage. If the clutch is getting tight it will need lubed. If lubing the cable doesn't work a new cable is needed.

The AC clutch is on the front of the compressor where the belt rides. When power is applied to the clutch it engages to turn the compressor. It is basically a magnet a/c compressor clutch is the ound thing on the front of the compressor with pulley wheel attached. this clutch is an electro magnetic clutch that when electricity is supplied, engages so as the a/c compressor is driven ,which can then pump freon thru the ac system

First you must get under the engine to unscrew the extremity of he cable fixed to the clutch lever. Once you are able to release this extremity of the cable, its done at one end and you must go inside your car. The best is to completely remove the driver seat. If you don't want to do it, at least, push it back to the maximum to have the most space you can under the driving wheel. It is better to get a good light (but small) to see (try to) what you are doing in this small space. The first thing to do once you are installed is to pull hard on the cable to get some loose inside. The isolation bushing should get out of its place. Once you think you have got enough loose (6 inches), have a look to the extremity of the clutch pedal, where the cable is fixed. With a long (one foot) flat screw driver, you have to push the extremity of the cable, really the cable, to loosen it from the extremity braket. Once done, with the same screw driver, you have to push the braket towards the front and the top. If you do it well, the bracket should jump from its place on the pedal. At this point, your cable is no longer attach to the clutch pedal. Then you noticed for sure that the extremity of the cable gaine is attached to a kind of plate which is welded to the two pedal boxes apart. The final thing to do is to push on a piece of black metal, on top of the plate, that prevents the cable sheath to be removed (it is hard to see but easy to do). Once done, you can remove the cable by pulling the cable sheath down and then pulling towards yourself. There are two bushing along the engine (or transmission) that guide the clutch cable from the pedal to the clutch. Before pulling everything off, make sure to remove those from their place.

IT IS POSSIBLE THAT THE LOW PRESSURE SWITCH IS BAD. CHECK ON THE LOW PRESSURE SIDE. IT IS EITHER ON THE LINE OR MOST USUALLY ON THE ACCUMULATER (DRYER). UN-PLUG THE PLUG FROM THE SWITCH AND CUT A WIRE ABOUT 3 INCHES LONG. STRIP THE WIRE ON BOTH SIDE AND PLUG THE WIRE IN ON EACH SIDE OF THE PLUG WHERE THE SWITCH PLUGGED IN. TURN THE AIR ON AND SEE IF THE CLUTCH KICKS IN. THIS IS DONE TO BY-PASS THE SWITCH, WHICH IS WHAT KICKS THE CLUCH IN. IF THE CLUTCH KICKS IN, THEN BUY YOU ANOTHER LOW PRESSURE SWITCH.

open bleeder valve on slave cylinder,gravity is going down hill,so get aclear hose and put on bleeder valve and openand pump clutch pedal until air is gone,dont let fluid get to low.

There is no clutch adjustment. The clutch is hydralic and therefore needs no adjustment. If the clutch isn't working correctly you most likely have to bleed the clutch line.