Clutches and Flywheels

Cable adjustment: This is for a CB650 but it is probably the same.

1. At the clutch hand lever, loosen the lock nut on the hand lever and the screw in the adjuster barrel until 3/8 to 3/4 of an inch (10 to 20 mm) of free play is obtained at the tip of the lever.

Note: If the proper amount of free play can not be achieved at the hand lever, additional adjustment can be made at the clutch cable length adjuster.

2. At the hand lever, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster barrel all the way in toward the hand lever. Tighten the lock nut.

3. At the cable length adjuster (below the clutch housing) loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster barrel until the correct amount of lever free play is obtained. Tighten lock nut.

4. If necessary, repeat step one for the fine adjustment.

Mechanism adjustment:

1. Remove the cap from the clutch housing.

2. At the mechanism, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster screw clockwise until slight resistance is felt, then stop.

3. From this point, back the adjuster screw counter clockwise 3/4 of a turn and tighten the lock nut. Reinstall the cap.

Note: Make sure the adjuster screw does not move when the lock nut is tightened.

4. At the cable length adjuster (below the clutch housing) loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster barrel until the correct amount of lever play is obtained. Tighten lock nut.

5. If necessary, repeat step one for fine adjustment.

Note: When making adjustments at the hand lever, do not expose the threads on the adjuster barrel by more than 5/16th of an inch. (8mm).

6. After adjustment is completed, check that the lock nuts are tight on both the hand lever and the cable adjuster.

7. Test ride the bike and make sure the clutch is operating correctly.

The above is all excellent advice however in my case I had to initially turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise until it moved freely then clockwise until I felt tension and then back it out counterclockwise 3/4 turn and tighten the nut w/o the screw moving beyond where it should be,in essence I backed off 1 full turn and as I tightened the nut the screw tightened back clockwise 1/4 turn.

YOU CAN'T. The clutch is either worn out are the clutch slave cylinder is bad.

Clutch cables don't leak. Clutch cables break. Hydraulic clutch lines (read 'hoses') leak. Hydraulic clutch lines perform the same function as a clutch cable, but with a hose, hydraulic fluid, and a slave cylinder. If yours is leaking, you shouldn't try to fix the leak unless you can't afford another alternative. If you do try to fix it, you might treat it like a flat tire leak, and use a tire patch and rubber cement over the area of the hose with the hole. Reinforcing the patch with duct tape, etc. wouldn't hurt. It may get you by for a while, but it could fail on you at a dangerous time. If it's leaking at the metal fitting, or, if the fitting itself is fatigued and leaking, forget fixing it. Instead, you should remove it and replace it with a part of OEM or equal quality. This will involve the process of adding new hydraulic fluid and bleeding all the air out of your new clutch line before it functions well again. Some car parts stores will make up hydraulic hoses at custom lengths... for a fee. Before pursuing this alternative, make sure your clutch line fittings are open stock and not proprietary. Sometimes there are "O" rings or black rubber fittings on the piston in the slave cylinder. The rings wear out and the cylinder leaks, and your clutch goes to the floor.

it takes 2 people,1 to pump the clutch pedal and the other to bleed it from underneath at the clutch slave cyl. but remember to keep the reservoir full at all time. it is kind of like bleeding the brakes on your car

No, I'm afraid not. It's got a hydraulic slave cylinder that's not adjustable. If it's slipping, you've got to replace the clutch and pressure plate. Sorry, Dude.

... just adding to this. I think if its slipping you may be screwed (see above). However, if it's not fully DISENGAGING (i.e. slop in the pedal and/or gears still grind when shifting from stop) then I think you can make some adjustment.

There is no adjustment, it's hydraulic.. If it feels funny, it could have air in the line, a leak, or it may be time for a new clutch..

On the right side near the side cover is a nut with a slotted screw in the middle. Loosen the nut and turn the screw counter clockwise until you feel it start to get tight. While holding the nut turn the screw about 1/4 turn clockwise, tighten down the nut.

has the rellise bearing came completely off the fork, and is rubbing on the splines on the push plate? or is it rubbing on the splines completely? can be caused by slightly pushing the clutch in on junctions, and eventually wears a slight indent on the push plate, therefor needing a new clutch and pushplate, has that helped by any chance?

has the rellise bearing came completely off the fork, and is rubbing on the splines on the push plate? or is it rubbing on the splines completely? can be caused by slightly pushing the clutch in on junctions, and eventually wears a slight indent on the push plate, therefor needing a new clutch and pushplate, has that helped by any chance?

clamp the line to the slave cylinder and mash the clutch pedal. if the pedal gets hard to push,the slave is bad. if the clutch pedal goes down slowly with moderate pressure,the master cyl is bad clamp the line going to the slave cylinder. meant to say that in the previous answer

i have talked to a cub cadet rep,and he states the flywheel key shearing is do to not tighly tightened flywheel bolt..

I have cub cadet 1042 that keeps shearing the key to the flywheel. I replaced 3 keys. I don't see any damage or marks on the teeth of the starter or flywheel. Motor spins freely by hand. What could be causing this? If your Cub Cadet LT1042 was made in 2005 or 2006 there is a engineering flaw in the engine short block. It is caused by the block cracking. Look at the engine in front looking toward the rear of the tractor. Now to the left of the engine down around where the cylinder head meets the case there could be a hair line crack running the length of the case. If this happened you are loosing vacuum that makes the fuel pump work. If there is a crack take it to any Cub Cadet dealer and they will replace the entire engine at NO cost. I just went through it with a dealer in Ohio, one refused to help but Northcoast equipment in Kingsville, OH bent over backward to solve this problem that I was having for 2 years,

If it is hydraulic, there is no adjustment, just make sure no air is in the line. If it is cable, then there should be a screw at the clutch lever which will tighten the cable. If the clutch really slips, then, well, plates will have to be replaced.

The center of the clutch is attached directly to the engine crankshaft, when the engine rotates faster the centrifical force spins weighted arms that are attached to the center of the clutch to the outside casing of the clutch forcing it to spin when the arms touch it. The outside casing acts as a pulley for a chain or a belt, separated from the center of the clutch by bearings so that it does not spin until the arms touch it.

My JD L 120 2004 mower deck clutch would not engage. On the clutch plug there are 2 black wires crimped together on the plug spade along with a yellow wire connected to a second spade, same connector. The crimp is very small and very tight. I pulled the plug off after first releasing the plug clip lock with a small screwdriver. when I moved each black wire independently at the crimp connection one of the wires felt very loose or easy to move because internally, due to vibration the small gauge electrical wire it had separated inside of the plastic coating. Evidently due to the safety switches there is a separate feed for forward and backward operation of the PTO clutch, hence the reason for 2 black wires. This also explains why the clutch would engage in reverse. Either way due to vibration any one of these wires could be fatigued and broken internally. To repair the problem I cut both black wires off of the spade crimp and reconnected at the crimp area by soldering the wires on top of the crimp. Problem solved.

The small ones have 153 teeth, the large ones are 168.

HELLO, I HAVE ONE OF THOSE JUNK !@(&q!@#$^&*^&(^%$ TOO ! THE BLEEDER IS ON TOP OF THE BELLHOUSING.. YOU'LL NEED A 5/16 BOX END WRENCH OR A SOCKET WILL DO.. SOMEONE HAS TO HELP YOU. THEY HAVE TO HOLD THE PEDAL DOWN WHILE YOU CRACK THE BLEEDER... MAKE SURE THE RESERVIOR DOESN'T GO DRY WHILE YOUR DOING IT OR YOU'LL BE BACK TO SQUARE ONE. MAKE SURE YOU USE A GOOD HYDRAULIC CLUTCH FLUID ... DONT USE BRAKE FLUID.. I'D LIKE TO STRANGLE THE ENGINEER WHO GOT PAID FOR DESIGNING THAT SYSTEM ! WHY DO THEY HAVE TO GO CHANGE SOMETHING... WHEN IT WORKS JUST FINE? I'LL NEVER OWN ANOTHER FORD (fix or repair daily) FORD PARTS ARE WAY MORE EXPENSIVE THAN CHEVY OR EVEN CRYSLER PRODUCTS.. HAVE FUN... OH AND GET USE TO BLEEDING THAT CLUTCH ! I HAVE TO KEEP BLEEDING MINE ALL THE TIME. JAMES FLICKINGER

You don't. The part (if it contains air) has to be replaced. If it's new.. it doesn't need bleeding.

Clutches can't be fixed. They are only replaced. if you have a hydrolic system it may be just a case of bleeding though clutch problems usually call for new parts, plates or linings etc. talk to a profesional

yes, but im sure it will be rather costly. might as well trade in your manual aveo for an auto aveo.

Is fluid leaking around the dust cover? If you are suspicious, lift the corner of the dust cover and see if the area inside is dry. Usually, if the slave cylinder is leaking you will get quite a bit of fluid on the outside.

raise the car, drain the transmission fluid, remove any exhaust components that will get in the way of the transmission, remove the starter, remove the drive shaft, remove transmission crossmember, use an engine hoist or a jack to support the engine, remove slave cylinder from bellhousing, remove transmission and bellhousing, unbolt pressure plate, inspect all components replace bad parts, reassemble. DON'T FORGET TO REFILL TRANSMISSION

It will be noisy, squeaking or squealing coming from the trans, and you may feel roughness or vibration through the clutch pedal when holding it in, it may also give you a little extra resistance when pushed.

remove drive shaft/s crossmember and starter. remove bellhousing bolts. slid tranny back saporting it on jack. remove presure plate bolts and remove both the presure plate and clutch. inspect the fly wheel before installing the clutch if its got a blue tint or deep scratches turn or replace. install the alignment tool in the clutch and replace the presure plate and bolts. then just install tranny,crossmember and drive shafts. besure not to brake or kink the hydrolid clutch line. any ? e-mail me at johnandlynnwho@yahoo.com

You have to remove the transfer case before removing the transmission.

If you go to autozone.com you can view repair guides online free.

All hydraulic clutches and brakes. There is a slave cylinder on the transmission that engages the clutch. Open the bleeder screw a bit and attach a hose that will just fit over the screw. Put the other end of the hose in a container with enough brake fluid in it to cover the end of the hose. About an inch. Now slowly pump the clutch. Run one full master cylinder of fluid through and this should be enough to bleed the system. Make sure not to run the master cylinder dry. Same thing can be done on brakes starting with the rear passenger and working forward to the front drivers last.

1. Buy a New clutch and pressure plate 2. Remove gearbox 3. remove old clutch and pressure plate 4. fit new clutch and pressure plate 5. fit gearbox 6. Drive