Clutches and Flywheels

My JD L 120 2004 mower deck clutch would not engage. On the clutch plug there are 2 black wires crimped together on the plug spade along with a yellow wire connected to a second spade, same connector. The crimp is very small and very tight. I pulled the plug off after first releasing the plug clip lock with a small screwdriver. when I moved each black wire independently at the crimp connection one of the wires felt very loose or easy to move because internally, due to vibration the small gauge electrical wire it had separated inside of the plastic coating. Evidently due to the safety switches there is a separate feed for forward and backward operation of the PTO clutch, hence the reason for 2 black wires. This also explains why the clutch would engage in reverse. Either way due to vibration any one of these wires could be fatigued and broken internally. To repair the problem I cut both black wires off of the spade crimp and reconnected at the crimp area by soldering the wires on top of the crimp. Problem solved.

At least the slave cylinder.

The clutch master cylinder can be replaced at any time.

hi what is the sequence and torque on engines detroit diesel 60 series 12.7L 430/470 horse power ...

There is a diagram under the hood that shows you where all the fill points are located. The clutch fill is located next to the brake fluid on the driver side firewall.

Check the following...............

1. The a/c pressure switch.

2. The freon level.

3. Relays and sensors.

4. The a/c clutch coil.

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Dragging clutch, clutch is oil soaked, hydraulic release system is faulty.

Firstly measure the thread length that remains at the end of the cable (it is after the arm that holds the cable in place within the engine compartment.

Then lift your clutch pedal up and you should find the cable can be lifted from its bed and then you can un-clip it from the arm. It will now be free.

If you can fit, position yourself under the pedals and release the spring from the clutch pedal that is holding the other end of the clutch cable in place. Then the rest of the cable should also be free. If you are too big to do this you can remove the clutch pedal or try to remove some of the lower trim.

Next you should check to see if the cable has been fixed to any other bits with cable-ties then cut them free. Then carefully pull the whole unit and the plug like grommit from the bulkhead. it might be stiff so wiggle it out carefully.

Then check your replacement cable is the same and repeat but in reverse. It might be tricky getting the spring and cable back on the clutch pedal so again, you might want to remove the pedal if your hands won't fit!

Finally ensure the thread at the end of the new cable extends the same amount as the old one to ensure correct tension on the cable. You will need to take the tension off the cable (like you did to start with) before you fit the rest of it back under the bonnet.

Hope this helps - If you get really stuck buy a manual. They have step by step instructions and pictures specific to the make and model you have.

CA18DE(T) RWD & SR20DE(T) RWD clutches have different bolt patterns on the pressure plate. The CA18DE & KA24DE clutches are VERY similiar. You can use the KA24DE pressure plate on the CA18DE(T) flywheel, but you must remove one of the dowel pins. The fit is extremely tight, but it works.

Prior to installation; using a feeler guage check the clearence between the armature assemble and rotor at 3 evenly spaced locations. There should be a gap of .060 and .125 (1/8 inch. if the gap is exceeded the armature and rotor should be replaced. With the clutch disengaged, using a feeler guage check the clearence (Air Gap) at both access slots between the ears of the brake flang. This must be between .010 and .015. Tighten or loosen the brake flange mounting nuts to obtain the proper air gap.

Cheap... A couple hundred bucks if you do it yourself. How long do you need this thing to last? If the clutch is just worn, and you have not driven it much w/ the worn clutch, you might be able to get away with replacing just the clutch disk and throwout bearing while leaving the pressure plate and flywheel for the next owner. If the clutch is blown, meaning the throwout bearing seized, the springs on the pressure plate are toast or you drove it with a slipping clutch for too long, the cost will be more, as the pressure plate adds $100 and machining the flywheel is another 30 - 50$.

I just got underneath my 00 6cyl and it looks easy as pie, there should be two bolts holding it on, you will notice theres a bleeder valve on the unit. Once the old one is off, install the new one you will need to bleed all the brakes and clutch. Purchase plenty of fluid never let the resv go low with air. Either pump the brakes and clutch method or buy a vac pump. I did my BMW which was a pain to get at so im sure with paitience you can. I also locktight my bolts.

Option A : Remove engine Option B: Remove transmission Option C: Seek Professional Help Cost would be very expensive unless you have a private mechanic. My price 350 Dealer cost Possibly 1,000.00 or more Average Private Mechanic 250.00 - 500.00 I personally would remove the starter,transmission linkages,wires, cooling lines and driveshaft from rear end. Then i would remove all mounting bolts to trasnmission and then remove transmission mount and drop the transmission using a transmission jack. Slide the transmission back enough to get an impact wrench to remove the flywheel then put the impact on the lowest setting ( 1 ) to install the new flywheel. Then take a breaker bar or torque wrench and torgue the bolts down and then put eveything back the same way you removed it. And always remember to disconnect the battery before starting this procedure especially when removing starter. 1 bad spark and you could go blind,start a fire, or simply fry everything in the system. GOODLUCK!!

Can't be adjusted -- automatically done (hydraulically). Check the two clutch cylinders, master and slave. If the reservoir at the top is full and the cylinders aren't leaking, sell the car.

yeah it is your clutch it is not disangaugeing it can be very difficalt it might be the clutch cable, an 8 cluthc cable might just need adjusting, in that case its just a matter of tightening or loosening which you can do with your hands. and that is not so hard at all

I thought that timing was measured off the crank gear and the cam gear. Not the flywheel :P

stalled.

please stay off the roads.

There is NO adjustment. It is adjusted automatically through the hydraulic slave cylinder. Probley time for a NEW clutch kit.

dealership is around 1200-1500 but find clutch assy. on eBay and find a smaller shop to do it... i did 2 of them for customers and i did them for 650 plus clutch assy.

If the clutch fluid reservoir is just low, no. If the clutch fluid reservoir is empty, yes.

its the same as you engine if you dont let the oils warm up during winter or very cold it will damage transmison.

If the clutch is defective then that normally means the compressor is going bad. It is cheaper to change them now rather than 1 part at a time.

have some one pump your brakes about 3 times and hold to floor and open slave cylinder bleeder screw, make sure u have a clear hose connected to bleeder screw and other screw in glass container so u can see air come out do this until no air is seen coming out, also bleed clutch damper which is on left side of firewall

The bands in your trans need to be tightened.Or,your fluid level could be low.Its a workshop job unless you know what you are doing.Trans service at local garage should sort it.