Clutches and Flywheels

You should not attempt to replace the clutch yourself unless you have considerable mechanical skills. In this case, the problem is most likely that the spring holding the clutch pedal in place is broken.

diff types of dry friction clutches are-

1.cone clutch

2.single plate clutch

3.multiplateclutch

4.semi centrifugal clutch

5.centrifugal clutch

in addition to these there are wet type friction clutches also

will 4.6 windsor engine with 6 bolt flywheel interchange with 8 bolt flywheel

get a smaller pulley for the engine. as far as clutch I'm not sure

when a clutch goes bad the bike will not be able to go top speed or let the rpms get to high in any gear because the clutch is engaging when it is not the right time hope that helps

Assuming that your car has a tachometer, accelerate moderately hard in an empty lot (or other unobstructed and deserted area) and watch your tach and speedometer. If you're confident that your final drive will take the stress, just sidestep the clutch and launch. If you don't move (or take off slowly) and the tach rockets up, then your clutch is slipping, and it's time to replace it. If you're accustomed to the car, however, you should become aware of a slipping clutch -- it'll be obvious; you just won't accelerate.

You have to pull the transmission out to get into the cylinder. Jeep sells them for 240. but carquest sells em for just over a 100. Im putting a clutch at the same time and mines at 86000 miles. Probably not necessary to do the clutch but since its a 5.5 hour job in a shop might as well have it done too. 130. for the clutch disk and pressure plate . 500 for labor and doing the u joints at the same time since they need to come out to do it.

First you should Check out your Transmission oil level that could cause your car too jerk into gear. The only other thing it might be if the transmission is going bad and you should have it checked by a transmission specialist

There is no tightening. It is hydraulic and self-adjusting. If you have little or no clutch, you need a new clutch or something is wrong in the hydraulics.

It depends on the type of clutch linkage. If it's mechanical linkage the clutch could be worn and the rod dropped out. If it's a hydraulic clutch, the clutch master or slave cylinder could be worn out.

May be clutch cable sticking, clutch lever on the gearbox sticking or the actual friction plate in the clutch sticking on the shaft. the latter would probably mean taking the gearbox out to check. The clutch lever on box is easily oiled but usually the return from a clutch is great enough to pull it back but check anyway.

My advice. Forget this idea. Sell this car and purchase one that came with an Automatic. You will save yourself money and lots of headaches. This would be an expensive conversion. The only other option would be to find a donor car with all the necessary parts.

If the engine and transmission are in or out of the vehicle...the process remains the same. (In most vehicles it is not necessary to remove the engine to accomplish this. There are a few examples...like the Pontiac Fiero for example). Remove the starter, the transmission and transmission bellhousing from the engine. There will be some things to unplug, or some brackets or mounts to disconnect. Take your time and label the bolts as you remove accessories. After you remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel...the flywheel attaching bolts will be visible...just remove those...make your repair, and put it all back together. Good Luck!

Low fluid in the master cylinder. Line restriction. Proportioning valve malfunction.

The side that sticks out farther goes toward the pressure plate.

You can't adjust the gas pedal. Unless you cut and weld the arm of it.

44.25lb +90 degrees for 22.5mm bolts or +180 deggres for 45mm.

According to the manual, the specifications are the following: 25-34 lb/ft on the flex plate to torque converter, 23-39 lb/ft on the automatic mounting bolt, and 89 lb/ft on the manual mounting bolt.

stagecoach buses are usually manual shifting

burn the car

The gearbox will have to removed to replace the clutch.

Disconnect battery earth lead (battery located under the front passenger seat)

Remove the engine cover

Disconnect the air flow sensor multi plug

Disconnect the reverse light switch

Disconnect the earth lead to the gear box

Remove the crank position sensor from the top of the gearbox (this is to protect the sensor from damage)

Remove the top bell housing bolts and starter motor bolts

Slacken the gearbox top mounting centre bolt

Removed the front wheels

Remove the engine under shield

Remove the engine to sub-frame mounting centre bolt

Disconnect the exhaust support bracket from the sub-frame

Unclip the power assistance steering hoses from their support bracket on the sub-frame

Support the steering rack with some cable ties and then undo the 2 securing bolts to sub-frame

Separate the lower suspension ball joints on both sides

Support the sub-frame

Remove the sub-frame securing bolts and lower to the floor

Drain the gearbox oil (remembering to replace the drain plug afterwards)

Remove the O/S drive shaft bearing support bolts and pop the drive shaft out of the gearbox

Pop the N/S drive shaft out of the gearbox and cable tie clear to one side

Remove gearbox closing plate

Remove the hydraulic slave cylinder (no need to disconnect the hose)

Pop the gear selection cables off the selector mechanism and then remove the unit

Disconnect the speedo drive multi plug

Support the engine with a long axle stand (take care not to damage the sump)

support the gearbox with a transmission jack

Undo the top gearbox mounting slackened earlier

Lower the engine and gearbox until the top mounting bolt is clear

Remove the remaining bell housing bolts

Pull the gearbox and out

Lower to the floor

Refitting is reverse of removal, check the clutch environment for any signs of wear or oil contamination, rectifying before fitting the new clutch. Remember to top up the gearbox oil.

Gearbox oil - EP75/80 X 1.8 ltr

in the brake fluid bottle. >:D

Not too bad. Remove the line from it. Remove the bolts holding it on. remove the clip under the dash that attaches it to the pedal. It will come out. Reverse the order to install the new unit. Take the bleeder screw loose for the slave cylinder. Loose, not all the way out. Add fluid. If you wait and keep it full, gravity will bleed it for you. If not, pump the clutch pedal several times and hold it down. Loosen the bleeder screw at the slave cylinder. Air and fluid will come out. Keep doing that until the pedal is firm and nothing but fluid comes out. That's it. Good luck.

start by flushing the whole clutch system with new fluid. open the bleeder and pump a bottle or so through the system or until comes out crystal clear. make sure not to let the clutch master cylinder go dry. stop pumping after the level gets to about a quarter of an inch to the bottom add more and continue pumping repeat til system is clean.