Clutches and Flywheels

yes, but no

technically it can be done.. but it would be very expensive.

It's not just replacing the tranny, you'll need a new starter,ignition, differential ... the list goes on.

It's cheaper to trade in your car for a manual.

PS: Why? As automatics go, the is300 has a great one. If your boosting performance you could upgrade your tranny ( or parts) to handle the increase strain. If you just want the control, get used to the paddles (buttons, with some practice they're very useful - try going into a sharp turn at 60, keep your foot on the gas, down shift , and power through)

or

trade in for a stick.

It is a lot cheaper and takes a lot less time if you just change to whole unit.

disconnect the hose from the clutch master cylinder on the firewall. I has a little retaining pin in it use a nail or something small to push it out then you can drop the tranny with a 4 foot line connected to it once you see the slave cylinder you can disconnect the hose the same way the hose was connected to the clutch master cylinder I learned this when I had to replance my slave cylinder

Just make the clutch pads line up with the clutch disk. the pressure plate can only go on one way due to the positioning dowels

It really depends but labor should be anywhere from $55-$85 an hour. The best you could do is call Nissan and ask them their rates and how long it would take.

My clutch appears to be on its last legs too (108,000 miles). I got a quote from the nearest Ford dealership (no Mazda near where I live) at $628 plus tax.

where does the clutch cable go from the pedal?? my clutch snapped earlier

It is fairly easy, the factory switch should be black plastic with a white plastic piece attached opposite the plug connection. You must first unplug the wiring. This is much eaiser if you pull toward the rear of the truck on the switch assembly and rotate it so the plug is pointing down. You then need to use a small pry tool to gently pull back the locking tab on the plug just enough to get the plug to slide off. You must then squeeze together slightly the two tabs that are approx. in the center of the white piece and at the same time, slide the white piece towards the rear of the truck. This white piece will now come off allowing the switch to be slid off the push rod between the pedal arm and the clutch master cylinder at the firewall. You can disconnect the push rod from the pedal but this is not really necessary. Installation is just the opposite. There might be slight differences depending on the replacement switch but the process is the same. Hope this helps. Also, I just got through doing this on mine due to the cruise control quit working which is also affected by this switch so you might want to check this before taking your truck to a shop for repair to the cruise. This is an easy fix......

Mad skills.

Apply handbrake and chock rear wheels.Support front of car on stands. Remove both front wheels and remove drive shaft nuts. Remove lower front suspension arms and lever out drive shafts. Draining geer box oil beforehand may reduce spills. Remove battery, air cleaner asm, wheel arch liner on LH side to improve access. Disconnect gear linkages, remove clutch linkage, revers light cable. Support engine, support transmission asm.Remove LH engine mount, remove bell housing bolts. Slide gearbox/diff asm sideways to reveal clutch asm. Note alignments and mark. remove and replace clutch asm . Assembly is reverse of the above.

bad filter

Because he hits great in the clutch.

On a Ford Ranger , DOT ( 3 ) brake fluid

DOT (3) brake fluid

From KingMopar's Experience with the above mentioned issue:

Well, it's surprising that I was looking for an answer to this and couldn't find anything...so you must have posted right after I started to tackle the job-LOL!! Mine is a 99 Nissan Sentra and to be honest, these cars just are not made for large American hands, in such tiny places. I didn't have the option of a manual of any sorts, so had to dive right in. My situation was the same, cable snapped on the way to work one morning and lucky for me, I was only a few miles from home so was lucky enough not to have to get a rollback, and it was early in the morning, with no cops around seeing me do "Hollywood Stops" at our few stop signs. To remove the cable assemly is a snap really, a star-wheel at the transmission shift lever(or fork if you will) has to come off and this allows the bracket to come right off the transmission lever. This leaves the rest of the cable assembly. There is 2 places where the cable is supported and they are easy to see. One bracket bolts to the tranny itself and there is a grommet on the cable assembly that goes into the bracket. The other bracket is basically on the fenderwell, or that area, and the cable housing just snaps there. I removed the (2) 13mm nuts that hold the cable assembly at the firewall and my old cable just pulled right out. Mine snapped not in the middle of the cable itself, but at the wear point, where the slotted lever of the clutch pedal attaches to the clevis section of the clutch cable assembly, under the dash. It's darn hard to see, but it's up there.

Willing to bet this is where most failures happen as it's a metal to metal contact, during constant clutching.

In my search of the net, and the limited amount I could find...seems some folks are just born with horseshoes in their pockets, or the stars were in perfect alignment during the new cable install. You'll have to put the firewall bracket onto your new cable assembly! Some stated they just slide the cable into the hole in the firewall, wiggled the cable till it attached itself to the little lever that attaches to the clevis device on the cable assembly...and boom, done. I, was NOT that lucky, after trying that method for an hour or so. I had already removed the (2) 13mm nuts that held the old cable assembly bracket to the firewall....and the only thing left was the (1) 12mm bolt that holds the whole clutch bracket assembly, to underneath the dash. Yep, on mine...only (2) 13mm nuts, and (1) 12mm bolt--and the assembly dropped down far enough for me to hook the clutch cable "clevis" to the clutch fork lever shown in the picture mentioned above. KEEPING THE PEDAL in the NON-DEPRESSED position...slide the clutch assembly bracket back into place, being careful not to let the pedal drop to the floor, or the clevis to come off the lever again. Once in position, put back on your (2) 13mm nuts at the firewall, but put them on only hand tight...then place the 12mm bolt back into it's position in the clutch bracket assembly, under the dash. My 12mm bolt came out fine, but during the reinstall...seems the guy who originally installed this, must have had a hangover and buggered up the threads on the self aligning bolt. Took bolt to the local hardware store and picked up another proper sized/threaded metric bolt/flat washer..and fixed that little hangup. Now, tightened up everything, under the dash as well as at the firewall. Thank goodness the threads under the dash were fine!

I had to remove the starwheel from the other end of the cable..and had to remove the bracket that attaches to the transmissions clutch lever(or fork lever). Be careful, as there is a small round hollow tube in that grommet in this bracket! Once this is done, put the cable in the proper brackets, on the fenderwell and transmission, place the bracket on the tranny clutch lever(it has a slot too) and get starwheel back started on the threaded end of the cable assembly. Once this is done, you are almost home. You can hand turn the starwheel, and the tranny lever, will move towards the firewall, with little resistance. It will get to the point where you can't turn it(starwheel) with your fingers anymore. You'll also notice your clutch pedal moving up, inside the car. I stopped there, and tightened up the small 10mm jam nut that you'll see on the cable assembly, at the tranny lever. If everything works out right for you...you can go inside car, depress clutch pedal about, and feel it working like it should. I've heard it said, that normally there is an inch or less of exposed threads(facing the radiator) at the starwheel. My car has over 100,000 miles and know that a new clutch is in the future, at some point. With a new clutch, am sure you would have less exposed threads, as the disc will be new, and thicker, so you won't be able to thread up the starwheel quite so far.

I also have heard folks complain about aftermarket cable assemblies...well, I went to the dealership and purchased one from Nissan, for about 40 bucks..aftermarkets run anywhere from 20-35 bucks, and the factory one snapped right in place, like it's supposed to. Course, they didn't have in stock and had to wait 3 days to get it. Spend the extra 5-10 bucks, it's well worth it and am sure it won't let you down again, quite as soon as the aftermarket. Some folks can't wait the 3 days, and I surely understand that.

I hope from my experience, and the gent who wrote the first part of this article...will help those in need. Good Luck and walk away for a few moments if you get flustrated.

***another gent asked a similar question for a 92 Sentra, I borrowed my edit from his question, asked another one, as it seemed the text got all screwed up and one couldn't read the answer properly

Astras usually share brake fluid with the clutch fluid resiviour

Um, somebody took it?

Seriously, I'm guessing that you mean it goes to the floor with no resistance?

We need a little more info here, please.

FriPilot Is this car equipped with an automatic transmission? 1. Check to see if the clutch cable is broken or disconnected

You need to put a block of wood against the blade of the fan in a way as to prevent the fan from turning. It is advised to wrap this block in an old towel or large rag to protect the fan blade.

it's better to replace and probably cheaper, if you go on eBay i foud a few on there under 100 bucks.

there are only a few places you might have tranny fluid leaks the main ones would be the seals around your axles. there is also a seal on the inside of the transmission right at the base of the clutch spindle. i believe you can get a rebuild kit with the seals in it. good luck

no as it is hydrolic and these sort of clutches are non adjustable were as cable clutches you could adjust them.

4X4 High: Slow to under 5 M.P.H., let off on gas, grasp 4X4 lever and securely put in 4-High.

4X4 Low: Stop vehicle, put in nutreul, grasp 4X4 lever and securely put in 4-low.

Clutch switches are usually located at the top of the clutch pedal.

There is a collar in the front of the transmission ( bellhousing ) that the throw-out bearing slides on when you push the clutch pedal down and let off.

It more then likely has a bad were grove cut into it and throw-out bearing is hanging up on it, so it makes a popping noise. You may even have some springs broken in the pressure plate. Need to remove transmission and clutch assy. Be sure to check piolet

bearing in the back of crankshaft too.

how much cost to change a clutch for a geo prizm 1995