Clutches and Flywheels

The clutch master cylinder has an actuator rod that connects to the clutch pedal.This rod has a lock nut on it.Loosen this nut and turn the rod to lengthen or shorten the pedal free play. .

Boman

the rule of thumb is to have at least 1 inch of freeplay in the clutch pedal to prevent the clutch disc from dragging

i think it may be able to change like with a new flywheel The clutch cable is self adjusting ,do not try to adjust!!!

If it was the throwout bearing, it would affect all of the gears, not just one. I would suspect a bad gear or syncronizer.

Check the lines between the cylinders to see if you're losing pressure. If that's not it try pushing the transmission plunger back while the clutch is in and readjust the slave cylinder's prong. If that's not it you either have a bad transmission or one of your new cylinders just died on you.

If hard to shift means it will not go into gear. You might need to replace/rebuild the clutch slave cylinder. That's what fixed my '94. Also check fluid levels and try bleeding first , that's a cheaper place to start.

It sounds to be like the spring that brings the pedel back up might have came off or broke but not sure cause I know that happened to my truck

you can adjust it by the clutch fork. there are are 2 nuts pinching it in place

There are two normal causes. The clutch is worn out or there is a leak in the hydraulic clutch slave or master cylinder. To check the clutch, press the clutch slave cylinder down. If the clutch slave cylinder bellows compresses down to the slave cylinder, the clutch is worn out. Check the clutch master cylinder fluid level. if this is low, then the clutch cylinder need to be checked. To check for a hydraulic leak in the clutch slave cylinder, remove the cylinder's bellows and check for any fluid. If fluid is present, rebuild or replace the cylinder and bleed the system. To check the clutch master cylinder, check the back the of clutch master cylinder for leaks. If fluid is present, replace or rebuild clutch master cylinder and bleed the system.

In my experience, hydraulic leaks occur at the clutch slave cylinder.

60 ft lbs

There is an adjustment nut on the right side of the case on the motor that has a small screw driver slot in it. Loosen that nut a little and tighten that inner slot until you feel it make contact, then back off about 1/8 a turn, then just tighten that nut back.

If the truck is a 4 wheel drive it would be easier to remove the engine to replace the flywheel. If the truck is a 2 wheel drive removing the transmission and bell housing is the way to go.

Derek Jeter, captain of the New York Yankees since 2003, who is also known for his clutch-hitting abilities.

I just replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearings in my 97 ranger 4wd. That was a pain in the a$$, whoever was in there last over torqued all the bolts. I don't know where you would like the clutch to release, engage or disengage at but I can tell you where mine did before and after replacing it.

Before I replaced the clutch it engaged and disengaged about a 1/4 inch from the top of the pedal travel. Being new to driving a manual and not having much experience with them in the past I thought that this was a bad thing. I bought the truck with 98,000 miles on it. Now it has over 112,000 miles on it, mind you it didn't slip or anything. I thought the disc was wearing thin and decided to replace it. The disc didn't look as bad as I thought it would.

Now after replacing the clutch it engages and disengages about an inch to two inches off the floor. This feels much better to me because I have much more control over the amount of grab I let it have. With it at the top of the pedal it was either all or nothing.

As to adjusting it the Haynes manual says that prior to installation you should rotate the disc counter clockwise to compress the 3 springs and then let it loose. The springs on the new one were already compressed while the springs on the old clutch disc were about 3/4 decompressed. I don't know if this is something that can be adjusted to adjust pedal travel or not but I thought it would be helpful. Good luck.

4cylinder 105-112 foot pounds

v-6 65 foot pounds

There should be an adjuster at the clutch lever and another on the bracket by the transmission. There should be some play in the cable where it hooks it. It can't be tight like a break cable. I always tighten it as much as possible then put the bike in gear and start loosening the cable until you can feel it start grabbing when you push the bike. Once it starts to grab, loosen it up a few more turns, most of the time about 10 but start with 5, then ride it see how it feels. Make sure it isn't slipping. Always works for me

Your clutch cable snapped. It should be an easy fix.

press clutch pedal all the way, press lock on adjusting srew and turn clockwise until there is a 1/2 inch gap between bearing and clutch brake or about the width of your finger tip now with clutch pedal released lenghten or shortend linkage until there is a 1/8 gap between release fork and bearing. you should now have 1 1/2 to 2 inches of free travel and cluch brake should be about an inch from the floor board

some slaves are on the out side of the transmission and some are inside if inside you will have to take out the whole transmission to change the slave if this is the case i would change the clutch assembly as well to ensure that i wouldn t have to go back in once the slave was replaced.BUT FIRST you must determine where the slave is located on the outside or the inside...

some slaves are on the out side of the transmission and some are inside if inside you will have to take out the whole transmission to change the slave if this is the case i would change the clutch assembly as well to ensure that i wouldn t have to go back in once the slave was replaced.BUT FIRST you must determine where the slave is located on the outside or the inside...

You will either need to buy or rent a special tool from the autoparts store. Its a thin flat wrench with another wrech looking tool that attaches to the end of a wrachet. Just ask for the tool for removing the fan clutch on a ford explorer. Also remember that the clutch is reverse threaded. There is also a wealth of knowledge at the following website(www.explorer4x4.com). Pick up a haynes manual as well. Hears how i did it. I removed one bolt so the cresant would fit. I used a nuckel nail puller put the short end behind the pulley and pried, put a 12in. cresant on bolt and hit the cresant with a 2lb.hammer.And it is not reverse threaded. drmack1@sbcglobal.net

It sounds like it is the clutch cable. I have a 94 Nissan Sentra and the clutch cable just broke. I have replaced one on an older Nissan, but it is still difficult for me to do on the 94. It is really hard to get the broken cable out.

On my 86 2.0l it has a hydrallic clutch and there is no adjustment, but you can check the reservoir to see if there is enough fluid in it.

It's almost certainly low refrigerant. When the compressor turns on the low pressure side is evacuated, resulting in refrigerant pressure that is low enough to turn off the low pressure switch. As soon as the refrigerant leaks back through from the high side to the low side, the pressure goes up enough to trip the low pressure switch back on, allowing the compressor to run briefly. Just add some refrigerant and you will solve the problem. Most auto parts retail stores will sell you a kit that lets you add a little refrigerant. Add a can to your AC and see how it runs. Use a gauge to add enough for the system to operate at it's optimal level.

yes,open bleeder valve on cluch slave cylinder and clutch damper to release air.

Yes, since it rotates, some energy is stored in its rotation.

not normally, only if it has stress cracks. If it is burnt or warped from heavy clutch use then it's usually surfaced machined (blanch ground).