Clutches and Flywheels

you gotta drop out the gear box and there is the clutch not typing all the details of every nut bolt and cranny lol :)

If you are asking what a clutch shaft is related to the installation of a clutch, it is a plastic alignment shaft that is used to line the clutch disc up with the pilot bearing in the flywheel, so that when you install the transmission the transmission input shaft will slide thru the clutch splines and into the pilot bearing in the flywheel with relative ease. They are a must for any clutch installation!

All 1995 GEO Trackers have a clutch cable that is adjustable instead of a clutch reservior filled with hydraulic fluid.

After installing the slave cylinder leave the cap off the master cylinder and loosen the nuts on the slave and hand move it back and forth making sure not to run out of fluid in the master. Tighten the nuts on the slave and pump the clutch 3 to 5 times and open the bleeder screw on the slave. Make sure at all times not to empty the master of fluid. Then push the clutch in one time and open the bleeder screw, do this 5 times, each time making sure you don't release the clutch before closing the bleeder screw. Then pump the cluch pedal 3-5 time s and bleed one last time. this should get all the air out.

PULL WHOLE TRANSMISSION OUT AND PUT ONE IN . TAKE BOLTS FROM AROUND ENGINE THEN TRANSMISSION MOUNT A SLIDE BACK THERE GOES. TRHANKS!!

Will it go into gear when the engine is off and the vehicle isn't moving? If so, it could be a problem with the pilot bearing or possibly the clutch slave cylinder wasn't installed properly. Check it for air bubbles. you may need to bleed the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder.

use a torchto heat the nut but make sure not to burn plastic fan it will tak a couple mins but it will come off

In the clutch fluid reservoir located under the hood, on the drivers side firewall.

The driveshaft is removed to replace the clutch by unbolting the u-joints and retaining caps on each end of the drive shaft. The shaft can then be collapsed slightly to allow for easier removal.

A 1990 Ford Ranger may not shift into gear if the clutch is out. A clutch can be purchased at any auto parts store.

how do you remove a flywheel on a 2002 Honda oddsey

Easiest thing for me is to remove the transmission first. Then you can get to the pressure plate and the clutch. Its a simple matter of a few bolts coming off. Remove the plate and then install a new clutch and pressure plate. I would highly suggest you replace the alignment bearing and the throw out bearing at the same time. An alignment tool comes with most new kits for the plate. Us this to line up the splines into the clutch plate and bearing.

If you are referring to the little springs inside the clutch assembly itself, you don't fix them, you replace the clutch.

See:
How_do_you_replace_the_clutch_in_a_96_Geo_Metro

If you mean anything else in there with the clutch, see the above anyway, that'll get you inside.

IN the master cylinder.

drivers side against the fire wall you'll see a big round thing with a retanglular tank bolted to it, the round thing is your power brake booster, the retangular tank on the front is you matser cylinder, which holds the brake fluide, just remove the top to add fluide, there should be a visable line on the side to show you where the level should be, easyest way to find it is open your hood stand near the hood hinge on driver side and you can't miss it, harry

Could be a broken clutch fork, linkage, or cable depending on the setup.

Most throwout bearings are sealed, and once they dry out and become noisy, they're done. The only option at that point is to replace them.

Start by raising the truck as high as possible off the ground. Drain the tranmission fluid, and screw the plug back in. Unbolt the drive shaft from the axle. Remove the shifter cover. remove the shift lever (seems like it would make more to do this first but some time the drive bolts do not cooperate and you need to put it gear or put the parking brake on and off if it still works). Support the transmission with a jack. Remove the transmission mount bolts. Remove the mounting bolts from cross member. If the truck is high enough off the floor only only one side of cross member needs to be unfastened. Slowly lower the transmission. Remove the speedo cable. The slave cylinder is between trans mission and the clutch cover, surrounding the input shaft. The Hydraulic line can removed by pulling the clip out or just cut the hydraulic line and replace the throwout bearing, slave, master and lines, most of the time I replace them all. Remove the transmission. While the the trans mission is out replace the rubber plugs (dealer item) at the end of the shift rails or replace them with freeze plugs(better). remove clutch cover and clutch. IF YOU MACHINE THE FLYWHEEL AND/OR CLUTCH COVER A SHIM WITH SAME AMOUNT OF THICKNESS AS THE MATERIAL REMOVED MUST BE PLACED BETWEEN END OF THE CRANKSHAFT AND THE FLYWHEEL!!! IF YOU DONT GO TO THE DEALER AND GET THE SHIMS, THE CLUTCH WILL NOT DISENGAGE COMPLETELY. The effect is the same as starting the engine with the safety by passed and the clutch pedal not pushed in. The Mazda 5 speeds are light duty and if you use your truck as grocery hauler ATF fluid is fine. If plan on hauling the advertized 1/2 ton and or a trailer more than 10 miles at highway speeds (55mph or more) put in a bottle of lucas ATF goop or STP. When is below freezing just remember the let engine run for 2 or 3 minutes before putting it gear to warm up the transmission fluid or you will stress the syncronizers. You can add the MEASURED amount of fluid just before put the lever in and fasten the boot down. note that Ford used different size pilot bearings in some years. If you put in 99 trans in a 94 it has to match the diameter of the end of the input shaft or you wont get it to go in the last 1/2. If the pilot bearing is too big it will stress the input shaft bearing (94 in 99).

with an alignmet tool.

Yes there is a AC clutch fuse located in the engine compartment. It is a 10 amp fuse' check your manual it will tell the location. If that fuse is blown and continues to blow fuses the have the coil in the compressor checked, also the pressure switch.

Works similar to a braking system- fluid cannot be compressed so when you exert pressure on the clutch pedal it transfers this effort through the master cylinder to the slave cylinder forcing the clutch mechanism to activate causing the clutch to disengage

Clutch bleeding can be tricky. It requires 2 people or some ingenuity to do it solo. for 2 people position yourself down at the bleed screw and helper at the pedal, hand pump the pedal 10 times or so and hold it down, while pedal is down crack the bleed screw just enough to let it pop out the pressure but not all of it then close it. repeat this procedure until no more air comes out. It is also recommended to have a tube on the bleeder leading into a small can of fluid so if there is a suction only fluid is sucked up and not air. Even after all the air has been bled out the pedal wont act right at first and will require some pumping to get a good feel. Keep bleeding until at least the pedal will rise back up after the bleed screw is shut but it may not, pump it and see what you have, eventually it will stay. It is not like brakes and since only a small amount of fluid is pushed each time you will need to pump it several times after a bleed is completed to see what your progress is. I made the mistake of thinking it was like brakes and tried to bleed mine 2 hours before I needed to be somewhere, I did what you did and let some air into the system and no matter how much I pumped I got no pedal, finally I hooked up a used fuel pump to a bottle of brake fluid and into the bleed screw and ran it until fluid came out of the reservoir, I shut the bleed screw and resumed conventional bleeding procedures but only letting out a quick burst of the pressure ( saving a little each time so as not to relieve it all and after about 10 cycles of pumping and releasing I got some pedal ( enough to engage the clutch ) the rest came back as I drove it.

To do it with only one person pump the pedal and wedge something between the seat and pedal to hold it down and go under and release the bleed screw ( I also had to do it in the dark ). I found the biggest trick is not to relieve all of the pressure. It took many times to get rid of all the air and I still believe some was left but it worked itself out later ( about the only help the dealers that I called would give is that unlike the brakes the bubbles can work their way out through the reservoir.

Good luck.

If it has a hydraulic clutch, I believe they can not be adjusted. When the pedal travel is no longer acceptable the clutch disc must be replaced.