Clutches and Flywheels

use the clutch

how do you remove the fan clutch on a 1994 mazda b 4000 4.0

The easiest way without a puller is to loosen the nut, take a large ball pein hammer and place it ball end down on the tip of the carnk (should be a drilled place there) and take a heavy (2 lb. or better) and strike the flat face on the upper side of the ball pein with it. One to three blows will loosen it. Do NOT strike the flywheel, it will break the magnets toose. A prybar under the edge only is allowed.

How do i check the transmission fluid in a manual 99 Hyundai Accent?

You need a special tool to remove and replace the clutch. Your local auto parts store can sell or maybe rent you the tool.

with great difficulty. I'm halfway through the process and can't bleed it so looking for answers my self

The 86-93 mazda b series have a hydraulic system.The only adjustment is on the back of the clutch pedal itself.This soley adjust the pedal height.Unless the clutch master is weak or the slave cylinder which engages the throw out bearing(aka release bearing) are worn and just not working properly.The clutch master is adjusted at the back inside the cab of the truck at the clutch pedal.This soley adjust the push rod going into the clutch master cylinder and this IS only done when you replace THIS part only.If your clutch master is leaking fluid at the resivour or your slave cylinder on the transmission is leaking(common) look for fluid on the rubber boot and if leaking replace.Hope this helps I am guessing the slave cylinder maybe your problem if hard to engage pedal or hard to go in gear and not a clutch issue or throw out bearing(being noisy) while in neutral or in any gear for that matter.

Two things. Cracks, and the outer ring. Cracks will occur around the bolt holes for the bolts that attach it to the crankshaft, and around the holes for the torque converter. The teeth on the outer ring, align with the teeth on the starter. You do not want to see shiney spots. These are spots where the teeth are slipping, or, not meshing. You do not want them to be rounded, or sharp. The tops of the teeth should be flat, and even along the length of the tooth. They are not too expensive. And, they can be expensive to change, as you have to pull the tranny to do so. I would take the old one in, and just get a new one. They make different sizes, so take the old one.

It fits into the end of the crankshaft.

the flywheel will only stop in certain positions based upon the number of cylinders in the engin due to the compression stroke

It's called: Your clutch is working.

I got approx. 168,000 miles and 8 years out of my 2002 clutch. I do most of my driving on the highway. Clue that it is going bad....clutch pedal gets harder to push in. When that starts happening start getting quotes because - as I learned - when its done it is done!

Assuming that the car is not running, probably nothing. The transmission may

or may not go into a selected gear.

If the car is running however, this would be a bad thing! You'll probably hear

a lot of complaint from the gears as they grind and clash with each other.

It is inside the trans, on top of the valve body. It is called a trans range sensor.

Hey Colma==It is a fan clutch not vice versa. It is between the water pump and the fan. Simply get a new one and it eill be easier as to how you will go about thking the assenbly off of the water pump then separating the fan and clutch. GoodluckJoe

First you need to make sure that all the air is bleed out of the slave cyinder. Then to adjust the point at which the clutch will engage, tighten or loosen the pushrod nut. It will be near the clutch pedal on a little rod between the firewall and pedal (the pushrod).

In my PERSONAL experience, dealerships are among the WORST places to take a vehicle for repair unless it's a warranty issue. They usually put their least experienced mechanic on the problem and when something goes wrong they say that another part needed to be replaced and charge you again. Go back, have them repair the issue and when they try to charge you tell them that you might have been willing to pay for the part if they had found the problem the first time, but now it just seems like they are trying to rip you off. Why didn't they check out the vehicle when they were finished with it? No, I've told my family to avoid dealers and let me take care of the problems for them.

no adjustment on hydraulic clutch, worn clutch disc and pressure plate

Metal piece was from the end of the clutch cable.

you don't bleed the engine. but the trans bleeder is on the passenger side of the trans at the top side it looks like a oil line with a brake bleeder valve. you must make sure you fill the resovor with brake fluid and then pump the clutch a few times hold it down to floor then open the bleeder valve and close it again, do this until you hear no air passing thru the valve. it will take two people to do this, remember to keep checking the fluid in the resovor often.

check each wheel on the inside, if it's a leaking wheel cylindar the inside of the wheel will be wet. If they are all dry, it's probably the master cylindar. May see it below the master on the booster, or it may be going into the booster. It should be visible somewhere, park in a space you know is clean and check the ground in the morning, but checking the tires should tell you if that's the problem.

just send it in for scrap dont bother fixing it.

Open the drivers door and you'll see a little door in the side of the dashboard. Remove the cover and you're there.

the hayabusa does not have a clutch cable. the clutch is hydraulic just like the b

No, there is no need to replace the flywheel but it is a good idea to have the flywheel surface machined.