Clutches and Flywheels

if you don't know how it should be left to the pro's. not knowing what your doing could prove to be fatal due to the weight of the transmission if anything goes wrong. not to mention the equipment required to remove the trans will cost you big bucks.

so my best advise to replace clutch is to pay someone to do it for you, you will be happy and alive at the end of the day.

try, bleeding the clutch. heres the link for how to bleed the clutch I wrote. This process is the same I did it on my 97 GSX. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_bleed_a_clutch_on_a_1998_mitsubishi_galant_turbo_diesel&updated=1&waNoAnsSet=1

I used this guide when I changed the clutch in my 97.

http://www.miata.net/garage/clutch2.html

only adjustment is under dash on the master cly needs free play so it can return throwout bearing, under hood just open slave bleeder screw an close. if the don't cure it then clutch needs to be replaced.

First, you will need to remove the large wing-nut off of the cable where it attaches to the transmission arm. You will probably have to jack up the car and get underneath to do this, so be careful under there, and use jack-stands and block the vehicle from moving. While you are down there, I suggest pulling the flexible tubing away from the transmission. It slides out away from the transmission. It will make your reassembly much easier if you pull that tube away from the transmission because the cable won't have to make that sharp turn. Next, you need to unbold the pedal assembly in the car. There are just 2 large bolts to undo. You will need to disconnect the accellerator cable before pulling the pedal assy from the center tunnel, and you will also have to remove the brake rod that attaches to the brake pedal. After you get the accellerator cable and brake rod off, you can pull out the whole pedal assy. from the center tunnel. Remove slowly, and take a peak in the hole. You should notice the clutch cable and how it attaches to the 'hook' on the end of the pedal. Unhook the cable from the hook, and now you can pull the pedal assy completely out. Take a good look at the 'hook' on the pedal and make sure it isn't worn out really bad...they can wear to the point where they break right there...so give it a good inspection before putting it all back together. Now you can pull out the old clutch cable. Take notice that the cable is routed in a tube that runs inside the center tunnel, because that is exactly where you need to thread in the new cable. Slide in the new cable all the way. Now, go back to under the car, and make sure that the cable is running thru the flexy tube. Poke the whole thing, cable and tube, thru the hole in the transmission that you pulled it away from earlier. So now, the flexy tube is back in place that way it was. Stick the cable thru the arm in the transmission, but don't put on the wingnut yet! Go to the pedal assy. Put the cable on the hook as you put the assy back into the hole in the center tunnel. This is the tricky part. Hook the cable on...and stick the pedal assy in. You should now push the clutch pedal down to the floor...as if you were going to push the clutch in. This will keep the cable from sliding off of the hook while you bold the assy back to the center tunnel. You need to be careful to make sure that the pedals don't come too far back...they need to be depressed...at least the clutch one does. Before you hook the accellerator and brake rod back on, tighten down 2 bolt all the way. Clutch is still to the floor...all the way down. Go under the car next, and pull the cable all the way thru the arm in the transmission, so that you pull the clutch pedal back into normal position. If you do this correctly, the cable won't have fallen off the hook. Tighten the wingnut. I usuall put a small pair of vice-grips on the cable end to keep it from twisting as I put the wingnut on. You will need to adjust the clutch cable so that you press the clutch pedal about an inch before it starts to engage the pressure plate. Don't tighten the wing nut too far, or the clutch will 'ride' on your throwout bearing and wear out your clutch itself. Give your clutch pedal a good pump or two and make sure everything is working smoothely without any binding and such, and that you have your inch of 'slop' in the clutch adjustment. Once you verify all this is good, you can replace the brake rod. The brake rod should also have some 'slop'. With the brake padal all the way back, in it's normal position, there should be a tiny bit of slop where the rod connects into the master cyclinder. Sometimes the pedal adjustment gets off a little when removing the pedal assy, so make sure it is all good going back together. There is a pedal stop that determins how far back the pedals rest when in the normal position. You might need to fudge with that to fine tund the pedal position if things don't go back in place correctly. Last thing is to put the accellerator cable back on. You want that adjusted so that your carb opens all the way up when the gas pedal is all the way down....but at the same time, it needs to be loose enough to let the carb close all the way. Good luck, and stay safe.

It is either leaking down the inside of your firewall under the dash (master cylinder) or leaking just enough inside the trasnmission bell housing to not puddle and be thrown around by the clutch spinning (slave cylinder).

the clutch is not adjustable but you can take up some pedal free-play by going under the dash and locating the adjustable rod going from the clutch pedal to the master cyl

Maybe a bad or loose wire on the compressor? Check the wiring real good for loose or dirty connections. Look for any cracks or breaks too. It's also possible that it's just a little low on coolant and it's a coincidence that you opened the hood and the compressor disengaged. Check the connection to the low pressure sensor and make sure you have enough refrigerant.

Your clutch cable needs to be replaced, it is probably broken from it's shield at the firewall.

Sure it is done all the time. Just unscrew it and fluid will start dripping out. then just replace with the new one. Good luck.

The Suzuki Intruder has a hydraulic clutch and therefor there is no adjustment.... There is an adjustment on the clutch lever for the distance from the grip, that is all...

1, Remove the rubber cap off the end of the bleed valve. Fit a clear vinyl tube over the bleed screw and put the other end in a container of clean brake fluid.;

2. Have a helper push the clutch pedal several times, then hold to the floor.

3. Loosen the bleed valve to let the air out of the line. When it quits bubbling tighten the bleed vavle. The clutch gets its brake fluid from the brake master cylinder. Check it to make sure it stays full during the bleeding process.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you don't see bubblels anymore.

5. Close the bleed valve and put the rubber cap back on.

6. Check the clutch that it works OK. If not bleed it again.

A clutch in an automatic transmission will decrease fuel economy. A clutch in a manual transmission will increase fuel efficiency.

This is typically done for unsynchronized transmissions. You get up to the RPMs you want to get to, depress the clutch just enough to take the vehicle out of gear, release the clutch, depress it again, go into the next gear, and release the clutch. With an unsychronized transmission, you'll have to time your shifts accordingly.

Have someone pump your clutch pedal and hold to floor,go to your slave cylinder,its bolted on to your transmission,on the passenger side,it has arubber cover toward end and the fluid line is connected to it.well open blleeder screw and release air into a glass jar ,with a clear hose connected to the bleeder valve and other end in glass jar,pump clutch pedal again and hold to floor and open bleeder valve,watch for air coming out,do this until no air is coming out,make sure your clutch master cylinder always has plenty of fluid in it so air wont enter,good luck,the fluid is dot3 brake fluid,the same as your brakes use.

For a 1993 Ford Ranger :

( DOT 3 brake fluid , meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A )

is used as a fluid for the hydraulic clutch

If its like the 93 tercel, you open hood, and its tucked in the back right corner.

Hourly rates differ from one place to another, but this should not take more than one hour to do.

It is a wet clutch, as it sits in oil. It is a wet clutch, as it sits in oil.

A wet clutch sits in the engine oil, which cools it and keeps it clean. As the clutch wears, the engine oil washed off the metal dust, which is then removed from the oil by the oil filter.

A dry clutch isn't cleaned or cooled by anything (other than air). If you take the clutch cover off, you'll see a bunch of metal dust in there.

Generally speaking, automobiles have dry clutches and motorcycles have wet clutches. A notable exception is Ducati's motorcycles, which have dry clutches.

Advantages of a wet clutch:

-lasts longer

-handles abuse better (e.g., can stay partially engaged without overheating)

Advantages of a dry clutch:

-doesn't contaminate the engine oil

-more efficient in terms of power transfer (since the oil in a wet clutch absorbs some of the energy that would normally go to the transmission)

You need two special tools, a 36mm wrench and a spanner/holder devise. You hold the pulley with the spanner and turn the fan clutch counter clockwise to remove.

It's not an easy job! You have to disconnect the tie rods from the wheel spindles. Then you pull the CV shafts out of the gearbox. Then disconnect the speedometer cable and any other wires or sensors. You'll then disconnect the clutch linkage and start removing the bolts holding the transmission to the engine (they will go around the transmission in a circle). Once those are out, you should be able to pull the transmission away from the engine.

There will be 5 main components to a manual transmission clutch system:

1. Flywheel: This is the engine side of the setup. It's like a brake rotor and the pressure plate is bolted to this.

2. Pressure plate: This is bolted to the flywheel on the engine.

3. Clutch disk: This is sandwiched between the flywheel on the engine and the pressure plate. It is this device that transfers motion and torque therefore making the actual connection between the engine and the transmission / wheels.

4. Throwout bearing: This presses up against the fingers on the pressure plate to engage/disengage the clutch

5. Pilot bearing: This sits behind the flywheel and is actually pressed into the back of the crankshaft.

You'll want to unbolt the pressure plate from the engine flywheel. The clutch plate should pretty much fall down when you take it off... Examine the springs on the pressure plate, are any broken? if you shake it, does it rattle? How is the surface? It should be shiny like a brake rotor and free of gouges and rust. If not, you'll need to replace it. If it looks ok, get a can of brake cleaner and spray it down to clean it up. set it aside.

Look at the flywheel. It also should look smooth with no gouges or major deep lines. If, so, it needs to come off to be machined (not an easy job).

There are many ways to remove a pilot bushing from a crankshaft. I prefer the wet toilet paper method. If you stick your finger inside the center of the flywheel, you'll feel the pilot bushing. Wad up a handful of wet toilet paper and stuff it in the hold slowly. Then take a wooden dowel and hammer it into the toilet paper in the center, if all goes well, the toilet paper will force it's way under the pilot bushing and squeeze it out. Clean out the pilot bearing hole and replace with a new one.

ALWAYS REPLACE THE THROWOUT BEARING! Look at the back of the transmission. There should be a throwout bearing sitting in a clip on the shaft. Remove this and replace it with a new one. Lube the part of the shaft that the pilot bearing travels on with antiseize.

Get a clutch alignment tool that matches your clutch tooth arrangement and put the new clutch disk on it. Slide the disk and alignment tool into the flywheel and also the pilot bushing. It should line up and sit nicely.

Then take your pressure plate and line it up with the mounting holes on the flywheel over the clutch and alignment tool. tighten loosely. Once all bolts are in place, torque them to at least 60 PSI in a star pattern. You now should be able to remove the clutch alignment tool and the clutch should stay in place between the flywheel and the pressure plate.

Line your transmission shaft up with the hole and gently slide it in through the pressure place, through the clutch plate, through the flywheel and into the pilot bushing. You must keep the transmission level w/the engine or you'll mess up the clutch plate alignment and need to loosen the pressure plate to re-align it again. Once it's lined up and flush, replace the bolts following the same torquing procedure as above. Grab the clutch fork and try to move the clutch by hand (it should be possible on that car). It should be hard, but not impossible. It should be pretty quiet w/ no squeaks. Attach all cables and clutch linkage. Test the clutch from inside the car. It should engage and disengage quietly with no major friction. Insert axles and reconnect to the spindles. Attach tie rods. Make sure everything is tight.

Test out the car and clutch. If it's slipping, or engaging too close to the floor, you may need to adjust the linkage.

Before bleeding the master cylinder, you must first intall all parts so that you can hook up the master cylinder as soon as it has been bled. The best thing to do is get a manual for your vehicle that explains the do-it-yourself techniques because it will have pictures to go along with the directions.