Clutches and Flywheels

Most AC compressors have a bolt in the center of the clutch unit, remove that bolt and under that you will find more threads, most are around 1/2in corse, put the large bolt into those threads and turn it clock wise, this will push against the main shaft of the compressor and jack the clutch off the shaft.

It shouldn't be too hard. First you'll need to locate it on the tranny and remove the locks nuts holding it in place and any other connectors holding it to the tranny. Then just pull it through the firewall to the pedal and look and see how it's attached. Once you undo it, just install the new one in reverse order. You'll have to play around with the adjusting nuts to get it set where you want it.

You take out the transmissioon, take out the clutch, put a new one in, and put the transmission back in.

The clutch is hydrolic and should adjust automaticly unless there is a leak or air in the line. there is really no way of adjusting it manually

if its the same speed yes it should since the are both in the same generation. both the 98 and 01 have the same 3 and 4 speed trans.

You do not have to take the transfer case off. Once you remove everything and start to pull the transmission back you have to rotate it just enough to clear the transfer case of the cross member. Drop down the front and over to the passenger side and go forward. A couple things. You MUST do all the steps in the manual. You can't skip any of them to try and save time. I've tried, it won't work. Also you will have to remove your torsion bars and don't forget to measure the amount of the bolt sticking out above so you can put it back the same. You will need 2 jackstands behind the front wheels, cant't do it without those. Put a jack under oil pan with a block of wood to keep the engine level while you take off the tranny. It also helps with giving you a little more clearance for removal. Be careful not to put too much force on the oil pan. While you're changing out your clutch I recommend changing the throwout bearing and the pilot bearing while you have it all apart. You will need a special puller for the pilot bearing. It is in the center of the flywheel. Also get you flywheel turned at a local auto parts store so you have a nice smooth clutch. Use blue threadlocker. Buy your bearings at Oreilly's or Napa so you know they're good. You do not have to take the transfer case off. Once you remove everything and start to pull the transmission back you have to rotate it just enough to clear the transfer case of the cross member. Drop down the front and over to the passenger side and go forward. A couple things. You MUST do all the steps in the manual. You can't skip any of them to try and save time. I've tried, it won't work. Also you will have to remove your torsion bars and don't forget to measure the amount of the bolt sticking out above so you can put it back the same. You will need 2 jackstands behind the front wheels, cant't do it without those. Put a jack under oil pan with a block of wood to keep the engine level while you take off the tranny. It also helps with giving you a little more clearance for removal. Be careful not to put too much force on the oil pan. While you're changing out your clutch I recommend changing the throwout bearing and the pilot bearing while you have it all apart. You will need a special puller for the pilot bearing. It is in the center of the flywheel. Also get you flywheel turned at a local auto parts store so you have a nice smooth clutch. Use blue threadlocker. Buy your bearings at Oreilly's or Napa so you know they're good.

Separate the engine/transmission; either pull the engine or transmission, whichever is easier for you. If it's an automatic, disconnect the torque converter from the flywheel. You can get to the bolts through the dust cover.
After the engine/transmission are separated, if it's a standard, remove the pressure plate/clutch disk.
pull the bolts that hold the flywheel and it should fall off in your hand.

A trimmer With a clutch allows the head to stop spinning when you let off the gas, and a NON clutch keeps spinning,

Mine went out 2 months ago. 95 Ford Probe 2.0L 4cyl. Buy a brand new clutch master cylinder. Used ones are not reliable unless they're rebuilts/refurbs. Take lose the lines/hoses connecting to your master cylinder making sure you plug them (i used a nail for the rubber hose and securely let the metal ones hang). The brake fluid from the hoses will eat off your paint if you're not careful. You may want to unbolt your charcoal canister and move it out of the way for more space. Unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall. (if memory serves me correctly, one of the bolts is fastened from the firewall, the other from inside the drivers compartment. This one is very hard to get to, the bolt is located directly above/around the rod that connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. It may take you awhile to locate it) Once you get that lose, remove the clutch master cylinder.

What you need to do next is bench bleed the new clutch master cylinder. Refer here http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/929.htm The Probe system is extremely similar owing to its Mazda roots. You do not have to recycle the brake fluid (I didn't have any tubes to run it back into the reservoir), just make sure you have lots of brake fluid from your auto parts place ;). Take and install the new CMC after you've bled it. DO NOT put it in there without it being bled. After you get it bolted down from both sides of the firewall, reconnect your hoses.

Heres the part where you need a friend (this part is also detailed very well in the article I pasted). Have your mate sit in the driver seat and slowly press in the clutch pedal (don't press it all the way down to the floor). Loosen the wheel cylinder nut at the rear passenger tire. Now have them press. When they reach a stop, quickly tighten the wheel cylinder again, then have them release the pedal. Repeat this until each time when they press down nothing but a steady stream of brake fluid shoots out of the wheel cylinder spout. Repeat for all four tires. And then go back and double check them all in the same manner. That's really all there is to it. It's a project you can do in a day. I believe the wheel cylinder nuts are an 8mm. I think the lines to the CMC are 8s or 10s. The bolts on the CMC mount is 14s I think.

I really suggest a Haynes manual, and scour the net for bench bleeding. You won't require any odd tools, other than something to bench bleed the CMC with, I used the handle of a wooden kitchen spoon used for mixing. Other than that-

Best wishes on your endeavour

Check for power at the clutch switch, then check for continuity through the switch with the clutch pedal depressed. If there is power and continuity, then the starter (or even ignition solenoid/starter relay) is the problem.

That would be a standard transmission.

A manual transmission for use in an automotive vehicle is generally connected to the engine through a friction clutch whose engagement and disengagement is determined by the manual movement of a clutch pedal, typically controlled by the vehicle driver with his/her foot. Frequent applying the clutch pedal in high density traffic or holding the clutch pedal down during long stops can be fatiguing to the driver.

Therefore, a clutch booster to reduce the effort required to operate such a clutch of a vehicle is desirable. With hydraulic assistance the disengagement of the vehicle's transmission can be easily accomplished.

A conventional clutch booster is generally designed to convert the stamp-down force on the clutch pedal of an automobile into a corresponding hydraulic pressure by way of a master cylinder incorporated in the hydraulic clutch system. With this construction, it is essentially required to adapt the master cylinder and the hydraulic piping therefor in the hydraulic clutch system, or to provide the clutch booster with a hydraulic cylinder, and the like, which would naturally make this system complicated substantially in its mechanical construction, and consequently, result in an economical disadvantage in its production cost.

Additionally, clutches generally have a plurality of plates with friction engaging surfaces that transmit torque when the clutch plates (discs) are compressed and interrupt torque transfer when pressure is released from the clutch plates. All clutches are subject to wear over time and require adjustment to provide a desired clutch engagement position for optimal performance.

Clutch boosters with the abilities of either automatically or manually adjusting clutches have been developed. However, automatically adjusting clutches require complicated mechanical linkages that add cost to the clutch assembly. Automatically adjusting clutches also require additional parts that add weight and may complicate clutch operation. Manually adjusted clutches may provide the optimal performance associated with a properly adjusted clutch but require periodic manual adjustments. In addition, it is difficult to determine the extent of clutch wear without disassembling the clutch with most clutch assemblies.

DOT 3 brake fluid

A molded lead ball on the end of the cable fits into a slot on the arm.

You simply push the small pin(roll-pin) through the housing with a small punch or Alan key...don't loose the pin when it falls out.

It is by the brake master cylinder

if its flywheel all car will shake/vibrate when you accelerate have had my zafira diagnosed at vauxhall they quoted over £1300 try cleckheaton clutch specialist in Bradford

You cannot adjust the clutch on a newer gmc truck because they come with self adjusting clutches. If you have no free play at the top of the pedal you may have to adjust the linkage to give free play.

your clutch cable located at rear of motor is snapped, bro autopartswarehouse.com has one for $50 bucks, bro easy fix

when your gears are grinding, and u cant change gears properly. also when your flooring it and it sorta slips instead of ingaging properly.

If it is like a dodge van the clutch fan has a large nut on the back of it you need to trun it counter clockwise to remove it,it might have locktight on it so you will need to leave the belt on and apply preasure to it as you turn the nut and try some heat some times that will work,be carefull not to bend the fan they are balanced,a bent fan will wear out the new waterpump.

It is exactly the same as the van.

Start at the n/cyl and push the clutch pedal down ONE TIME nd loosten the line going to the slave cyl. Close the line and let your foot off of the pedal and pres it down ONCE more and keep it up until there is no air comming out. Then go to the slave cyl and do the same until no air is present. Make sure the m'cyl doesn't run out of fluid. ALSO PUMPING THE PEDAL CAUSES THE AIR TO MIX IN THE FLUID.

slipping clutch? get a new one

What make/model/engine size is it?

To replace the clutch cable is pretty simple. First put on your e-brake and jack and secure your car. Next, simply unbolt the clutch cable at both ends and remove. To install is the exact reverse. And that's it! I would suggest going to your nearsest auto parts store and picking up a Chilton's manual for your car, it's invaluable for stuff like this. Hope this helps.